Greetings

Can anybody tell me why you two run the strongest disc brakes on the largest rotors available? And Mark, 200mm on a 20" wheel with a BB7 is just going too far

thanks for the comments so far, keep them comming just doing a proper edit, will post it up when done alex

purely out of interest, do you know how much torque that thing has?

left click, montyride200406.divx - no music left click, monty_ride_music.divx - full edit Inspired by Felix and a recent video of Tart, yet there's a long way before me to gain their smoothness. A bit repetitive on one spot because it started to rain and that was the only dry place (not for long ) comments very welcome

The only thing i can suggest is as was said to bleed the system and make sure the resevoir is no leaking or hasn't got air inbetween the seal and the cap

LOL that's what used to happen to me 5 years ago with 90s' monty rims

looks silly but is impressive

Steve It might be a good idea to try metallic paint on another occasion, that would make the frame look uber special Excuse me for the OT

I'd go for Sony. It's apparently well worth it and it's not only the name you're paying for. The image colour is much better comparing to JVC (Panasonic is not bad). The best thing you can do is to buy a used 3CCD camera, yet I don't know if you'll get one for 500 pounds. The cheapest new ones about 1,5 years ago were about 1000 quid (HC1000E). Bought one when they were still in production (discontinued due to being the choice of professionals) and I'll probably be using it till it wears out because it's just amazing. Other things which you should take into account if you decide to buy a different camera to those listed. Advanced HAD which is a Sony system used to concentrate the maximum amount of light on each pixel allowing for good night shots. The camera I've got is about 5 lux which is pretty good, the VX2100 is 1 lux yet it's no this parameter that decides about the image quality. With an Advanced HAD, raising the gamma correction wont result in a totally s**t and grainy image. It would be good to buy a camera which has a fairly standard lens adaptor size. My friend's got a JVC to which he can't find any converters because they just don't fit. DV input and output is essential. Not all cameras have the input though so check this before you make your choice. Battery size. You'll probably get a lot of footage on a standard battery but there will be situations where you will want to film longer. Some cameras (like mine) have an internal compartment for the battery. The problem with this is that you can't buy a more capacious battery, you need to buy another standard one and always carry it around with you. And trust me, you will loose it and that's a pity because they cost a fortune. With an "external" battery mount, you just buy a more capacious battery which is larger and sticks out. With some cameras (especially the small i.e. HC18 series) a 3100mAh battery will last for about 5-6 hours of filming and that's good enough to take it with you for a weekend and not have to carry the charger around.

Another car finished and ready to go. Being driven back to the UK tomorrow A goodbye pic: [attachmentid=3951] Need to think about a next car, a totaly wrecked Aston Martin would be great.

Steve is the Heatsinks' frame origin the same as the 24UK?

the sidehop onto the rock was the sweetest tuck i have ever seen

You need to ask yourself what you will want to do on your future bike. -Natural riding -Street riding -Static riding -Mostly from a rolling start -Bunnyhops? And then adapt the frame length firstly to your height (because if you are huge then you can buy a longer bike for the same purpose as a short rider would buy a short frame) and then to your riding style. I'd personally buy a short Echo Group frame and forks which would increase the wheelbase. Monty's are great but are also very specific and not body-friendly if you get me

Very similar to what my girlfriend did with me. Not to the extent of helping me out at work or getting out of debts because there was no need, but she did sometimes offer her help in these matters, never would I accept it though. Been together over two years (and two years of friendship before), but the feeling between us has somewhat deteriorated. Yet as she's been so influential, if we split, we will probably be friends for life. We both helped each other too much to forget about it.

thats correct, i keep hitting my chest against the left leg/knee and that's VERY unpleasant doing it to the right solves this problem

Alright, problem solved Took it to a mechanic who screwed some kind of coil in (looked like a spring) and made a new thread where it was f****d. Swapped the cups between the truvativ and tryall bb so that there was more thread in it. BB screwed in very easily and is very tight now. Cups flooded with the strongest loctite so that there is no more self-unscrewing which would knacker the thread completely. Oh and they did it for ~2 pounds

I am left footed and sidehop to the left. There was nothing wrong with this until I started falling off rather badly if the rear wheel didn't make it onto the ledge. That's why last year I started to learn sidehopping to the right. It took me about 3 days of practice to be able to do it onto about 90cm. Progressed a lot and a few weeks later I was doing them onto 105cm which is more than I could do to the left. This was due to no fear of falling off and being able to get closer to the object before launching upwards. Practice doing them to the right, it will really make your riding better. Furthermore a good trials rider should be able to do things both ways And if you decide to sidehop to the right discontinue doing them to the left. You shouldn't forget how they're done, yet you will forget how to sidehop to the right if you don't do them too often.

These frames look special but I don't like them in the slightest. What is plasma coating?

This is a matter between us, so better if this didn't go OT. Wasn't complaining to Gaz about the bb though. Back on topic

It didn't hurt at all but I was all over the place when they were trying to put stitches in. There was too little skin there to get it together It took about a week till they took out the stitches and a few months before I could strain the muscle without feeling any pain. The downside of this crash was a cracked bone somewhere in the foot which was diagnosed as a sprained tendon (using a dictionary now sorry for any inconvenience due to inaccurate vocabulary). All ok now but it was pretty bad, to the point I sold my bikes and almost quit riding.

A friend making topic This may sound crap but if she left you, shes not worth the hustle. In most cases its the women which want to split up in the first place. IMO just don't argue with her. Trials (or any other passion if you have one) should keep your mind off it. It did in my case, whenever I was feeling down. Try some moves you couldn't do, prove to yourself that you are a good rider etc. Study more if you're still at school... Of course it's easy to say all these things but from past experience I know that this might work.

Pic of bb's and what could be done Left bb is a try-all 68mm, right is a 68mm E-Type Waynio: Its the right cup which has gone bad. Good idea about the FSA bbs, I'll take that into account if buying a new one. It would be great to remove the internals without touching the right cup. Thank you I'm taking the frame to a mechanic tomorrow, will see what he has to say about this. The other thing which can be done is to make an ever so slightly larger thread in the frame and have a turner make a slightly different cup for the bb. The last thing I want is to glue or weld something in. If there will be a need of selling the frame in the future, this will surely put people off.

I've read that, don't really like that idea

OK so basically I wanted to unscrew my bb today and to my surprise the thread in the frame came out with the bb. This kind of explains why the b*****d seller wanted to swap frames with bbs in. Never mind that. This was a try-all bb, and these have very little thread (probably for weight reasons) Therefore only about 2/5 of the thread in the frame is ripped. So, my idea is to use a 73mm top class E-type bb (so I needn't have to unscrew it in a few months due to snappage etc) and flood it with Loctite 270. Should work shouldn't it?

I know a large percentage of us has probably grown out of computer games, yet I'm sure most of us, regardless the attitude towards this form of entertainment, have their favorite game. My vote goes to Deus Ex for the incredible plot and philosophical ending.