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Pimp new GU frame... as a replacement for my Slate 3


TrashZen

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Yep, I finally opted for a GU:

Pimp ride, I tried out various chainstay lengths by tweaking the half-link chain, and finally opted for a 378mm chainstay (that definitely feel very sharp and reactive on the rear wheel).

You can check out the full specs Here

I don't have a scale precise enough to give a weight.

gu2013crank.jpggu2013ftwheel.jpggu2013-1.jpggu2013-2.jpg

Edited by TrashZen
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A regular link chain would end up in the same point - using 18:15 and a normal chain it sits at roughly 380mm, so a half link would change that by quite a lot, not just the 2mm you've mentioned there. Similarly, the brake mounts were positioned to work with a full-link chain at 18:15 so I'd imagine a half-link would mess that up a bit. It might be worth counting the links you're using, and if it's an even number just putting a normal chain on - I've only ever had bad experiences with half-link chains, so if you're not getting the benefit of being half way between positions a normal chain would be in, it just seems like a heavier, weaker chain for no reason.

That aside, the bike looks cool (Y)

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A regular link chain would end up in the same point - using 18:15 and a normal chain it sits at roughly 380mm, so a half link would change that by quite a lot, not just the 2mm you've mentioned there. Similarly, the brake mounts were positioned to work with a full-link chain at 18:15 so I'd imagine a half-link would mess that up a bit. It might be worth counting the links you're using, and if it's an even number just putting a normal chain on - I've only ever had bad experiences with half-link chains, so if you're not getting the benefit of being half way between positions a normal chain would be in, it just seems like a heavier, weaker chain for no reason.

That aside, the bike looks cool (Y)

Yes, in fact, I first used my old chain, it was roughly at the same spot, but then the rear tyre is was really feathering the yoke, like is has 2mm left, and I thought I would add half a link to space it up (and then the brake mounts were a bit on the fringe and also, I felt the bike was less reactive)

So I reverted to the same chain length (removing a half-link). It is a 1/8"gusset, typically used for BMXs. Supposed to be solid. :'(

Edited by TrashZen
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Remove that death-chain right now! Or get a fidelity card by your local dentist...

Whoaaa!!! That's a bit harsh innit? Well, I'll consider it... :ninja:

You lots are getting me scared now... I usually keep my chains for a couple of years, that's when they start breaking into bits... :excl:

I'll keep you updated.

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Whoaaa!!! That's a bit harsh innit? Well, I'll consider it... :ninja:

You lots are getting me scared now... I usually keep my chains for a couple of years, that's when they start breaking into bits... :excl:

I'll keep you updated.

Because I really don't want what happened to one of my friend to happen to you.

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Whoaaa!!! That's a bit harsh innit? Well, I'll consider it... :ninja:

You lots are getting me scared now... I usually keep my chains for a couple of years, that's when they start breaking into bits... :excl:

I'll keep you updated.

Get KMC Z510 HX and change it every season or if possible then even more frequently, then you'll be all right! BTW Epic bike, would ride!

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I 've got a fairly simple policy of not changing parts until they break... but hey... I'll see how this chain goes.. (A)

I agree for some parts only.

A chain has to be a secure element. It's not like a wheel which breaks.

Two months ago I broke my nose on a transfert because of a chain snap. The chain (KMC Z610HX) was only 3 months old and didn't have any hits as far I'm aware (and I know how to correctly mount a chain)

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