HippY Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Well, re read some old threads, and as it turned out probably a zoot will be good for me, as I dont go big at moves, although I am tall, so 24 wheel should be better, and I have the possibility to go streety or stay trialsy as well. So I have several option in the next month or so EDIT:I chose option 3 and I am going with a full build, although at the moment I am looking for advice on the wheels as I do no know anything regarding street wheels and rims, neither from freehubs opt 3. Get a Zoot frame kit with Zoot wheelset, use some parts that I already have ( cranks, pedals, bars, rear brake, stem) and make it a double maggie zoot pro, for around £500-550 as well update: it will cost £491 or £477 with bike builder discount (if I can have it) Exact part list: Onza Zoot Pro Frame Kit Front hub: Hope XC (I have it, it is still good, i might send it to them to build it up to a wheel) Rear hub :Trialtech sport (or something at that pricepoint) Onza zoot Rims Halo Black spokes Onza Rim tapes DMR Moto digger (2.1/2.35) K710 chain square taper From my build: -Rockman Bar -my stem -pedals cranks freewheel -brakes ( it is not the final built, I just want to show how it will look like roughly) Do I need to built a full bike with all parts to get the 3% bike builder discount? Which one would be the most reasonable option? Personally I want a bike with as less hassle as it can be, although I can built the bike with no problem. Edited January 26, 2014 by UKHippY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 option 2 or 3 i like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 why? is the zoot pro with those part (with because wheels and deng rear hub) is much better for the same amount or a little bit more money as the normal zoot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 The frame has 4 point mounts and it comes with the alloy fork. the standard zoot has a heavy steel fork and handlebar you will spend more money replacing them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 then it would worth to spend around the equal money for the zoot pro, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Yeah I vote for option 3 Oh, and go for a kmc 610hx chain instead, it's much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 That is not the final built (and I do not have any kind of info regarding chains, thanks for the heads up!) it was just to show how approx. it will look like, for example I am thinking about because wheels (I always wanted red wheels :/ ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Get the zoot pro, the frame is a lot stronger than the zoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I reckon in a day or two I will show you a part list, just to show what I am aiming for and you might have some good ideas as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsMatt Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 zoots are fairly weak, would go with zoot pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) just a question regarding wheels I might take a look around locally to see what 24 rims and wheels are they selling. I was looking for some undrilled rim, and they are 200g heavier then the drilled ones I am planning to ride trialsy (not planning to be the TGS king, just for fun) and streety (I know 0 trick so far). would an undrilled rim hold me back, are the 200g is that heavy? are they much stronger then the drilled ones, do they last longer ?( around the same price range of course) Or something like Inspired team `10 would be a good solution? I am looking for Alienation Deviant for example For drilled rim, I was looking for Because Rims Honestly I am looking for purple rims, to look nice on the frame Edited January 26, 2014 by UKHippY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Halo used to make purple rims mabye a quick search on pinkbike or ebay... or maybe something from spank i think they may do a purple rim too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) yeah, i just did, Halo has the SAS rim, but for £50... anyway, is there a large difference in an undrilled street rim or a drilled trials rim? At the moment I have several questions regarding wheels, as I know nothing about street wheels and tyres: Which tyre should I go for? DMR Moto/digger, Maxxis Holy roller, or different one ?( from chain reaction cycles and tarty mainly) what with, 2.4 on both wheels? Which rim would suit this built the best: Alienation Deviant/PRM Inspired Team`10/new Because 24 drilled? Is there anything that I should check at wheels? it will be disc front and maggy rear What rear hub should I choose? Hope is waaay out of my budget. Should I go for a disc rear hub just in case if later I want to go DD? Edited January 26, 2014 by UKHippY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paperclip Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Yeah the zoot pro for sure! I'd try for a rear freehub personally though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) why would you? do they make such a difference? bear in mind I am a slowly progressing beginner, so I will not do 5 feet drops and 360 right away What about the other components? do you prefer any of it? Edit: http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p53497/DMR-Pro-24-inch-Rear-Wheel.aspx Would a rear wheel like this suit the street trials profile? I am not sure ho streety or how trialsy should I choose the wheels, as I have 0 experience with street bikes :/ Or maybe Dartmoor raider 24 rims? they are purple Edited January 26, 2014 by UKHippY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikingnunn Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 id go rear free hub if i were you, much less resistance compared to a FFW. you can get second hand hopes for under £100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshole82 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 not a lot of people actually answering the question between drilled and non-drilled. i'm in the same boat - not sure if i can re-use my old Mammoth rims or plump for a 'trials-specific' set. in general terms 200g is a lot of weight on a wheel. if you think of it as a spinning weight too, so it's not just that amount, it's the amount of inertia (? right word ?) it generates as it spins that makes it feel so much heavier, especially under breaking or accelerating. or i could be talking balls; who knows eh? hopefully get an answer soon to help us both out!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbikingnunn Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 not a lot of people actually answering the question between drilled and non-drilled. i'm in the same boat - not sure if i can re-use my old Mammoth rims or plump for a 'trials-specific' set. in general terms 200g is a lot of weight on a wheel. if you think of it as a spinning weight too, so it's not just that amount, it's the amount of inertia (? right word ?) it generates as it spins that makes it feel so much heavier, especially under breaking or accelerating. or i could be talking balls; who knows eh? hopefully get an answer soon to help us both out!! Most rear wheels weigh around 1kg so it doesn't really matter which type of rim you have. Undrilled rims will be better for more streety moves like spins and stuff as they are stiffer where as drilled rims will be better for more TGS stuff as they are lighter. It just depends on what style you are going to be doing more of. If you think you will be doing more streety stuff then get undrilled rims, if you think you will be doing more TGS stuff then go for drilled rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshole82 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 cheers nunn - i knew they'd be lighter but just wasn't sure of the use or benefits. i reckon i'll build some up on my mammoths while i find my feet then maybe progress to something else when i learn how to land things properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I think I should go with undrilled rims, as they should be stronger and with streety moves they can last longer, and at TGS, that i do not plan to do at high level, as they do with proper trials bike, just for a small fun level, that 200g should not be that big problems Regarding the hub, I will go there later, as I have around £100 budget for each wheel, but later on with DD I might go to Hope Pro rear hub! Thanks nunn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Anscombe Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) I just want to say my zoot is the cheapest bike ive ever owned-It is also one of my favorites -I ride mainly small tech stuff and have so much fun -no dents or cracks yet-- and the Bike has seen 3 riders me being the lightest! Hope you enjoy a zoot as much as me Edited January 27, 2014 by Dave Anscombe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paperclip Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 why would you? do they make such a difference? bear in mind I am a slowly progressing beginner, so I will not do 5 feet drops and 360 right away What about the other components? do you prefer any of it? Edit: http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p53497/DMR-Pro-24-inch-Rear-Wheel.aspx Would a rear wheel like this suit the street trials profile? I am not sure ho streety or how trialsy should I choose the wheels, as I have 0 experience with street bikes :/ Or maybe Dartmoor raider 24 rims? they are purple I just think for moves like a manual and as said before the resistance and what not I would go rear freehub over front free wheel, it's the prefered choice and if you do it while you can afford it now then you might as well and you won't look back. My riding is a huge mix of street and trials on my 24" which is a pretty similar geo to the zoot in some sense and I found pro2 much better. not a lot of people actually answering the question between drilled and non-drilled. i'm in the same boat - not sure if i can re-use my old Mammoth rims or plump for a 'trials-specific' set. in general terms 200g is a lot of weight on a wheel. if you think of it as a spinning weight too, so it's not just that amount, it's the amount of inertia (? right word ?) it generates as it spins that makes it feel so much heavier, especially under breaking or accelerating. or i could be talking balls; who knows eh? hopefully get an answer soon to help us both out!! Just pissing on your bonfire most drilled trials rims are alot wider than undrilled street rims which actually adds weight. So in my opinion the most poplar 24" trials rim is a echo tr which is around 700g ish and is 45mm where as a DMR back line rim of which I keep seeing a lot of and is pretty cheap to buy is 32mm UNDRILLED and is only 640-650g I have had both rims in the past and both are strong rims so what is more important in my opinion is do you want a 45mm rim or a 32mm rim (hope this helps) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 well at the moment I will go for a fixed rear hub at the moment, as I cannot afford £100 more for a pro 2 hub at the moment, but as soon as I get better and I will need it I will, but it will be down the line why is it better if a rim wider, if the tyre has the same wideness (and is wider the better at tyre, for example at 2.2 Holy rollers vs 2.4 holy rollers or 2.35 Moto diggers?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I have run quite a few different ffw types and since changing to hope pro 2 last year i would never run a ffw on any trials bike again, ffw always seem to have that skipping where they bite but then move to the next set of teeth on the ratchet. when that happens just as you line up for a drop or gap to the next rail, it would cause me to stop and fail. the hope hub has done this to me on one occasion when it needed one new spring. in terms of trusting the kit on your bike to help you learn the tricks n stunts a hope hub will help loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshole82 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Can you fit ffw to a fixed rear hub? Like the screw on kind? I'd like to run freewheel rear and fixed crank but the free hubs are ridiculous prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.