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About CC12345678910

  • Rank
    Trials King
  • Birthday 12/30/92

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Bikes, Cars, Motorsport - owt with wheels or an engine
    Loud shouty music
    Fixing up old rusty stuff
    Getting into building computers
    Taking photos and making vids
  • Location

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  • County (UK Only)
  • Real Name
  • Bike Ridden
  • Quick Spec
    Green '11 Inspired Fourplay, Element forks, Because disc front hub/black DB Vocal BMX spokes/blue Araya Nipples/black Halo combat, Pro2 evo rear/black Vocal DB spokes/blue Araya nipples/Inspired pro rim, Gusset integrated seat, TT sport cranks & Onza BB, Wellgo Mg-1s, KMC z510HX chain, BB7 front, Racingline/magura rear,HS yellows and TT 2 bolt, T/tech stem and Nukeproof Warhead 760 risers.
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. All your comments are being taken on board lads. I want to have a setup that has the capability to produce this (even if I can't) ©Stephen Davison but have the budget for something that could be described as this. I jest... Ultimately I'm wanting to do prada on an asda budget, as an Irishman I know would say. I'll get there though. Shame Aldi don't do copy canons eh?
  2. Certainly is worth a thought. Mirrorless also suits the travelling requirements rather well, size and weight wise it's like a better version of my bridge cam i guess?
  3. Because idly flicking through said retailer's catalogs was the nub of the idea in the 1st place. Convenience of aftercare is a consideration also, but not the be all & end all. 150 beans off though is quite a chunk off a cam I'd ideally have but I thought was out of range £££wise. That 70-300mm offered with the 700D as well as the usual 18-55 was what drew me in to be honest, I think I'd be happier long term with the 750D, but again thought I couldn't stump up the coin. Have you used that site then @MadManMike or was that just off google? And would you recommend?? (Hear that? That's a sound of shit getting real way too fast and the part of my brain that goes "arrgh f*** it you know you want to" winning the powerstruggle that is my head )
  4. (I'd like to run a hypothetical past the group, if you would.) You would like/are willing to splash what is still rather strong money at this point in life going down the no doubt irreversible rabbit hole that is making the jump from your capable, loved, best you could afford at the time, but ageing bridge camera (F u j i S L 2 4 0) that you feel you are pushing the limits of, to a DSLR. You are not even remotely Larry Chen but would like to take pretty pics of summer car and bike shows, motorsports (potential TT/MGP/Manx Rally trips etc.), the odd camera in bag wander to nowhere in particular (resulting in pint-on-picnic-bench shots, landscapes, sunsets, that kinda sh*te). I might even take piccys and HD video of them stupid bikes with no seats that need to oil their brakes, don't know if you've ever seen them or not. So, as a starting point for your 1st big boy camera bag, do you pick: A. Nikon D3400 w/18-55 kit lens (NOT VR). £329 out the door with a clickncollect voucher code for 100 pounds off but scared of being dissatisfied long term in a buy cheaper buy twice scenario. Scrubbed because there is no input for external mic. Forgot about that. Mirrorless will now be in the running also. B. Nikon D5300 18/55 kit lens £549 C. Eos 700D, 18/55 AND 75/300mm kit lenses (definite front runner I have to admit; Feels like the natural step from the 600D/T3i I have been handed the use of when "ere yar lad, film this for us yer" was being uttered in my direction a few years back) Also £549. D. Eos 750D 18/55 kit lens. £599 All from the same high street retailer, 5 letters, blue and red livery, begins with A. Looking into buying flash guns, batteries and a grip. a prime lens or 2, polariser/filters and possibly some fisheye action in the not distant future, but I need to take the 1st leap before all that carry on happens. Want this to be a "forever" purchase too, as I've outgrown the cam I have now [took the greater part of 5yrs I might add], and the stage after this (eos 5Dmk3 for example) is completely unobtainable for me at the mo - I'd have to setup a pay for prints FB business just to pay for the damn camera! Opinions please. Cheers, Ciaran.
  5. I'm making a right bollocks of this aren't I? @forteh Close. 9spd pro2 old has 15mm od axle, the 9spd pro2 EVO driver I have has bigger bearings with a 17mm Id (factory spec). The aim of the game is to step down the driver to fit a pro2 old, in such a way that the sleeve bodge acts like the proper axle would, and make up a hub from odds and ends. The sleeve spinning and making a gauled up mess was my main concern. Cheers boys.
  6. The application is/was increasing the axle diameter to fit a later model freehub body with larger I.D. bearings (the only difference to the fitment), so I can make up another "bitsa" hub. If the sleeve can be fixed to the axle then as far as the bearings are concerned they are running on the correct axle and will work as designed. However if I could buy the correct late model axle or early model freehub body later down the line I would remove the jerry riggery and make everything proper again. I mean if I wanted be real bodgey I could PVC tape the snot out of the axle and slap everything together, but I'm trying to be better than that... In retrospect I was massively over thinking the job. I have yet to put theory into practice as the hub I was buying fell through but I definately think a combination of the 16x1 tube and @forteh's 641 bearing fit, or more acurately whatever brand I have in the draw when it comes time, ought to work just fine.
  7. Alright peoples, i've got a quick question for you as all them answers the seach engines are returning go flying straight over my practically-capable-but-never-done-A levels-or-any-of-that-guff brain. I'm sure there are people on here who know this sort of backwards so, if you please; What would be the (perhaps ballpark) rate of contraction in aluminium (in this case a 15mmOD, 2mm wall hub axle) when frozen to minus 16C (the coldest the house freezer goes to on fast freeze)? And, how much would the 15mmOD 2mm wall Alu sleeve i am going to make expand under heat from a butane/propane mix plumbers torch? I don't know the temperature the torch is capable of but suffice to say I plan to heat the snot of it. All of this is in aid of making a good hot/cold interferance fit, but not so tight that the sleeve cannot be removed in the future, In case anyone was wondering. I have the option of using 16mmOD 1mm wall tubing for the sleeve but fear that would have to be epoxied to the axle; A process that has given me mixed results in the past and would be a right b*tch to remove later down the line. Thanks as ever.
  8. I find it very fun on the way home from work to come across someone who has bought one using the cycle to work scheme on the premis of 'getting fit', cruise up to the back of said lazy f**ker who is freewheeling on flat ground when they should be pedalling/remotely putting some effort in, sit there 'til I decide "you're in my bloody way you slow arse fat b*****d", click back a cassette cog or two, go round them at my lesiure and fck off into distance with barely a change in heartrate. You can do the same with restricted mopeds too.
  9. (Taking this completely on face value) If no one scraped owt and the area was left how it was found then where is the "such vandalism"? Sensationalist whingebag pillock.
  10. Channel on youtube called homofaciens - a german guy who built a budget cnc router and also a plotter from things like m10 stud bar, a dremel, stepper motors from scrap printers and his own linux code. Might be of some use to you @manuel. Also as a subnote all of his videos in english have the comedy value of making him sound like Arnold Schwarzenegger.
  11. Aye I found that already bud, but when using this (fairly comprehesive) tap chart I couldn't make head nor tail. There doesn't seem to be (at least to me) a size that correlates to what those peeps quoted - If the dia. sounds right then the approximate TPI seems off or vice versa. I've had the freehubs apart tonight to make up the 1 good from 2 bad so I've had the calipers out, taken (mildly!) informed guess' as to what size I'm after and ordered up a small selection of bolts and nuts in those sizes to see if a lockring threads into them. I can only be wrong and it's cost about £4.90something to find out.
  12. @forteh as said, 1.37 x 24tpi is BSA BB's and screw on cassette/freewheel thread. @monkeyseemonkeydo is correct in saying that a cassette lockring dia. is a larl bit smaller. @CurtisRider I had forgotten that. Still, the point of the exercise is to attempt to repair something that is otherwise shelf art, so a 7spd (or even smaller maybe) would be just fine. FWIW I checked a cassette lockring with a thread guage which said 1mm pitch. So I double checked by nestling a m6x1 bolt into the freehub body i already have (the one that is going to get the salvaged parts from the fecked pro2 driver that's on the way) and that [the bolt] fits like a glove. Just need to get the diameter sussed now.
  13. Anyone know the thread specs for the lockring on a standardised shimano HG spline freehub/driver body, in this case a hope pro2 old? It seems to be a cards-close-to-chest secret if google is owt to go by. Diameter? Pitch? Thread standard - american, english (24 or 26tpi cycle thread maybe), metric, other? Dia. can be in fractional or decimal. I'll convert and work it all out in the end. I've an alu 9spd freehub body coming from ebay but it's got a stripped cassette lockring thread so whilst I do intend to raid it for parts i'm curious to see if I could shorten everything to an 8 or 7spd and cut a new lockring thread. Seeing as by that point it's a pen holder anyway I see nothing to lose and something to gain. Thanks in advance.
  14. The sound of the brake echoing for bloody miles whilst being contrasted by true, absolute, silence. That was the standout point for me. All the stuff that was leading foot into the obstacale was proper tech (mabye naturally mongo foot??), and the big stuff was ballsy and er, big, I guess. Not withstanding you looked like you were there on your own and medical help was no doubt a very long way away. Liked that very much.
  15. It's a floating linkage that acts when the shock linkage moves meaning that the cranks stay in the same (relative) place, which in turn means the chain doesn't have any funky tight/loose situations no matter where the shock is in it's stroke, or how much the effective chainstay length changes throughout that stroke. It's really quite a piece of design when you get to see and poke around it in the flesh. Pluuss the entire frame & s/arm is a massive tanky carbon MF, so y'know, that helps too...