Filo

What part do you disagree with? The problem with all these combinations and different ways of doing it. No one will ever agree. I'm just sharing what I have found, I have basically tried every pad, every grind across a wide range of rims. My problem is I'm a big guy and need to completely trust my brakes for every single move. What I've found stops my husky build and is quite reliable for full day rides.

The diamond cutting wheels are no were near as good as a normal cutting wheel. I find the diamond wheel grind blunts really quickly and gives terrible hold, the brake slips heaps. For fronts the 1mm thin cutting wheel gives a nice fine grind which is great on the front because you get bit and can still modulate the brakes fairly well. For rear a 3mm cutting wheel give best results. You can change the how rough the grind is by changing the angle of the cutting wheel. Using a grinding wheel ends with a really rough grind,similar to using the diamond wheel. Not as sharp but last longer.

Tnn ADM bite and hold so good on almost any surface. On a fresh grind there amazing even on a dull grind that's been in dust they still hold great. I only grind for comps these days, were lucky to have one a year.

Tnn clamps have a heap of adjustment

Because the pads are all seperate, it allows all pads to touch square. As it is now with 2 long pads not every piston moves the same. The 4 pads takes out any inconsistency. Not sure how it helps in a trials brake, I know it's heaps nicer in a sports bike brake. Time will tell if it's better.

From my experience they don't like being run at 60psi. I've had 2 different tires have the same issue. The outer carcass separates from the bead. I fount the thread had snapped. Both tires had 60psi when they failed, one was much worse then the other. I will say while running them they were truly amazing, sadly they don't suit my needs.

^thats the part. Changes the way the tensile clamps work. The work heaps better. I think the plastic is better and it clamps better.

The tensile clamps arnt as bad as everyone makes out. I've used the with success in the past. I did use the standard Magura olive, not the standard tensile one. I think this is the reason why people don't like them.

I think they are, I run the SL now and it seems very similar.

So very true. I stopped using trialtech rims because of this exact reason. Echo tr rims are the best at holding a grind. I don't have to grind anywhere near as much as I used to. Pair the echo tr rim with the adm pads and it's the best combo you can have. Loud, crips and perfect hold for ages

Full black adamants win hands down. Always have been the best looking frames

I'm a little over 6 foot. See how you go. I spend a lot of TIme at the skate park. I'd say that also helps contribute. Still shouldn't happen to a tire of the price and quality.

Yeah. I'm noticed the same. Where the lowest part of the up and down movement is where the issue. They just don't seem to be suited to my weight, Riding style and pressure. I'm 115kg running 65psi. At 65psi the tire is still squirmy.

I like to run my tires hard. Running these at 65psi I have had 2 tires split near the bead. On blew out on me as I was about to leave a ramp, went off with a bang. Blew a massive hole in the side. I thought it was just bad luck, however I had the replacement do it within 3 weeks.(lucky to be 4hr riding on both). I was working on my bike and noticed it. I was able to remove it before any issues. Looking at the bead, you can see where there's not much rubber around the threads and it was pulling away. I wish they were a bit more durable

...double post. Please delete

Bike looks good. Can't wait to hear your thoughts on the brakes. I've just put the same set up on my bike. Still waiting for the rear to wear in. Im jealous of all you guys who can run the conti tires.the grip is amazing. Sadly they dont like me.

The finish on the iron is quite expensive for them use. So your paying for the frame and finish.

I grew up riding bike trials, my old was teaching me the required techniques for moto trials without a motor. I rode it for years then went to high school. I become really good mates with all the bmx guys. I spent the best past of 10yr riding bmx. Then injured I got back into trials. Not long after one of the best thing happened, the 4plays came out and suited me perfectly. I've been floating between trials and street riding since then. I love it, you can go session a skate park then go hit some technical natural back to back

I wonder if any of him team riders on here showed him this post, that's the only reason he has replied.

It's not the volume the tube would fill. I think the ERD of the rim being smaller that the rim wouldn't hold up as good. The sidewall might become really flexy aswell

I don't think it'll work. There's to much hight from the side wall. The echo tr rims Hold a grind just as good. There more like a standard rim height. Might be worth skinning that rim. Just drill holes through the inner wall on the SL rim

In a frame that's as stout as a "street trials frame" the difference really isn't as noticeable. As for durability, if your a standard rider I doubt you will notice any difference between the 2 materials. Both have there traits Alloy just snaps/cracks Steel bends Steels frames tend to dent a lot easier, mainly because they use a lot thinner material and when hit just dents. Just an example, the inspired (alloy)down tubes are thick, I've landed on mine a few times hard and you just have a little mark in the paint. Similar impact on my arcade and I have the slightest little dent. As a normal rider I would highly doubt you could tell the difference, maybe if you rode each frame back to back every day and closely payed attention to how the frame feels then you would. Maybe people need to ride there bikes more and not worry so much about the material, both are suitable for the style of riding. Focus more time on riding and learning new tricks and lines instead of being fixated on what it's made from. For what it's worth I'm fairly confident that the alloy VS steel is plaster all over the internet, perhaps a quick google will supply you with the answers your looking for.

In my experience I found the tech 2 levers handled crashes way better. The flush master cylinder helps, plus the top bolt took most of the force. I've never had full reliability with my hopes. They have always needed some tlc from the box.

True, however the reliability is there. Plus you don't need to worry about re bleeds etc. On my arcade I'm using the standard hope brakes, I've managed to loosen the banjo bolt with my foot on 2 seperate rides, oil every where, needed new pads, since that I've changed the banjo to a straight adaptor and put a standard bolt in the bleed. Haven't had any issue for months after doing that. I wrecked hard today and smashed my tech 3 lever. Let's just say it's going to be fun next bleed(ground the bolt head down) As for cost on the brakes, I brought my xtr levers for $60 and the bb7 for $40 each. All new all on eBay. Didn't really cost that much

I used Bb7 on on the rear of my 26trials bike for 2.5 years. I can honestly say that they were the best rear disc brakes I ran. There was never any slip, always grabbed, always modulated well. I really enjoyed using them. It was all in the set up. Most important was the older light grey caliper were the ones you want. There the 1 piece caliper. Once they went away from this there was way to much caliper flex when grabbed( there were the dark grey one) Xtr v levers Odyssey liner slick cables Red ebc pads 8in rotors, found the clean sweeps the most consistent with braking hold(rear rotor on backwards, helped stop bending on big drop gaps) I also used to put triflow down the cable, also stuck the nipple into some grease(this reduces all possible friction) I never had any issues, lubed the cable every 6 months, and slightly adjusted the pads. The down side was that frames like to break at the disc mounts.