Alex Dark

* Tensioner Hacksaw blades x2 / big vibra saw blade Bit of piping / plastic for runner some steel for the angle bracket 2 m5 bolts and washers ( I use rotor bolts ) Bend the Steel into an L shape so it clears the rear cog. Put an S bend into the steel so the end is bought into line with the cog Drill ends of both blades and the ends of the steel to accept the axle (10mm usually ) and the M5 bolt ( 5mm ). Drill the runner you have made and affix to hacksaws. Should look approximately like this.... * Tensioner Hacksaw blades x2 / big vibra saw blade Bit of piping / plastic for runner some steel for the angle bracket 2 m5 bolts and washers ( I use rotor bolts ) Bend the Steel into an L shape so it clears the rear cog. Put an S bend into the steel so the end is bought into line with the cog Drill ends of both blades and the ends of the steel to accept the axle (10mm usually ) and the M5 bolt ( 5mm ). Drill the runner you have made and affix to hacksaws. Should look approximately like this....

Never had one, but the older ones were known to have spokes pulling through and they don't hold grinds too well due to the uber soft material. Ideal I think for a front disc wheel. New ones are 170% thicker around the spoke so should at least be a lot better to stop the spokes pulling through

I have no idea...never even heard of it, but I'll ask Joe on saturday to see if he has any idea

Dont drill it then... Fine width, I run an Echo 07 front (39mm wide ) on the rear with no issues... Trialtech/ try-all are pretty badass...strong and light ( normal circular drileld dual-wall ) Doubt you'd have need for it...but if you bash then Echo Urban If you want lightweight then go Try-all h0le or Onza pro Diamond

Unless youre incredibly lucky and have perfect chain length and thus tension...you'll need some kind of tensioning device. This can take the form of chain tugs/ cams - where the wheel is moved backwards along the horizontal dropout by either being pulled or pushed Sprung tensioner - Uses a spring to ensure constant tension on the chain.... 74kingz, spoke tensioners or Rohloff are good examples of these. Fixed tensioner - Less commonly used now, but still being made. Simply a captive tensioner that is held in place. DMR STS ( simple tensioner ) is the main one used in trials. If you're bending hangers, then consider using a 74kingz style or spoke tensioner. Both cost little or nothing to make and work brilliantly if executed well.

I don't get it...you show us one clip then ask for help....what kind of help?

Brakes - Binding in what way? Are they rubbing etc? How do you know it is the lever set-up at fault? Front wheel bearings - If unsealed hub then make sure the cones are done up against each other as detailed here Very good bikes, especially at their price range. How long have you had the bike for dude? Sounds like you have a couple of small routine maintenance problems that all new bikes suffer. Things come loose, one of those things I'm afraid If you need any help fixing the above, just describe exactly what's happening and we'll do our best.. Alex

Basically you just want the chain to run in as straight a line as possible from cog to cog... Put the cog on the freehub body of the hub with no spacers. Now, put the chain on both cogs and spin the cranks backwards. The cog should seat itself in pretty much perfect alignment with the front cog ( helps reduce chain wear and reduce chance of skipping ). Now, look through your spacers and see what youve got, and try some different combinations to get the position of the cog as near as possible to the one it has seated itself in. That should all be sorted now....slide the spacers on, then the cog, and the rest of the spacers. The lockring goes next which has to be tightened with this tool. As for tensioners, I recommend using a spoke tensioner if your chain length is to within 1/4" of what is needed for perfect tension. Other wise I'd say a good 2-pulley tensioner or a homemade 74kingz style. If you have any other issues, especially regarding tensioners, give me a shout Alex

20mm bolt through surely?

You'll definitely save some weight...I reckon the phase to be around 1.8-9 kg.s

How much to get them imported?

I'll most likely have your Bionic

Should be alright with a decent sized rotor...certainly not as good as a BB series avid or a mono trials though

Me thinks it would just fall off....unless you changed the rim....new spoke time..... which would stop your rim brakes from reaching...or if disc would drop the BB height.

Ye, I has some Rockman Bj:orn = scandium..... Triton bikes = titanium Scwalbe do some fronts that are folding don't they? Better in what way? Mono trials and BB7's have got enough power for trials Mag forks = dob carbon rotors have been done by the tarty crew Strong forks, check out Trialtech Lighter discs...marta SL carbon maybe? Rim tape...just use any tape or plastic/ rubber Kenda small block for a front mod tyre.... Try-all lite / Monty eagle claw rear?

6 pallet sidehop innit.... God knows mate, not much to play with...get some more I say In my little section ive got a six pallet tap/sidehop....4 pallet next to it, and another three dotted around

Joe Seddon who rides at international level is a chef

Which Echo rims? There's been at least 6 models over the years.... SL, TR, Urban / 07, 06, 05, 04? Do you regularly kill Koxx/try-all rims?

SL = superlight....expensive stuff, pretty light, lots of ti shit...eg SL TI freewheel TR= middle of the range, decent weight meant for your average rider....mostly alloy at this price range URBAN = designed for proper bashers...take the urban rim, same as the Echo 07 which is known to be pretty much the strongest trials rim out there.

Cones - Tighten them if so Nadgered bearings - Replace / overhaul Broken spoke - Replace and re-true Buckled wheel - true it out All the above we can help with

Best possible advice....take the rear cassette shite off, park tool do a tool for this. Thread on a Tensile FFW ( available for as little as £10 second hand ). Then make a spoke tensioner. Voila, saved maybe 300 grams, 3x the engagement points, better chain tension and looks massively better

Possibly....but if you do then the lever will bite incredibly late, and be VERY far out. Aren't Mono trials adequate in power?

Make a spoke tensioner...adjust chain tension with cams so on tight spot it's perfectly tensioned. Sorted Ask me if youre stuck, I has pictures of me tensioner

Frame looks amazing in the flesh! With some shaving on the frame of the CNC'd parts easily sub 1.2kg I think. Onza is on the up

Nope! not a sausage... I understand how important it is though I'll have it done soon to hopefully make Project Frame Video number 2