Alex Dark

Hmm, I know deore hubs use a 10mm allen key to undo the freehub? Edit: Quick google Search reveals this...may be of some use More Information Halo Spin Doc. Freehub – Halo Spin Doctor Freehub Replacement Guide- · First step is to remove the push fit cones from the axle, just pull off and put to one side. · On a hard surface, firmly tap the axle in a straight down motion to push out one of the bearings from the hub shell. I normally tap from the disc side first to remove the more difficult freehub bearing first. · Turn hub over and repeat to extract bearing on other side of hub. · With the hub shell free of axle and bearings, place an 11mm (or Imperial equivalent – 7/16”) in a bench vice. Do the vice up tight, it’s about to do a big job for you… · Place the hub over the allen key, disc side down and lock in the freehub’s backnut. When in securely, turn wheel anti-clockwise. It WILL be tight, it WILL make a loud crack as the tension and threadlock is broken. · With the backnut removed, turn the hub over and place freehub side down over allen key in vice. Repeat anti-clockwise motion with wheel to unthread freehub from hub shell. Expect effort and loud noises as before. Be sure to remove small spacer from hub also, it fits directly behind the freehub in the shell. The most common fitting error on these hubs is incorrect replacement of this spacer. DO NOT attempt to replace it over the backnut thread on the other side of the freehub. · Have a good look inside the hub now you have the chance. Remove any grit, dirt or old grease and make sure everything looks good to go. · Refitting Freehub. Re-assemble hub in reverse order to dis-assembly, take care with freehub spacer as mentioned before. Also, take care when re-fitting bearings, it’s not too tough, just be sure they go in straight…

Nice video, I really liked it...especially good for a first(?) video....

Yesh, nice contribution Pete....you can also use those for the reach adjusters on Avid levers, HS33 levers and the spring tension thingys for an Avid BB7.

Yeh, basically im up in Kentucky on the weekend around the 26th. Anyone fancy showing me round? I'm staying at either Faversham or Seasalter....Heard Herne Bay is decent? So, if youre from round and fancy it drop me an email...pm me etc Cheers, Alex

Good work, they look mint,....

Id say get a Because trial....the inspired is just not designed for TGS no matter how much people will tell you it's adaptable.

*lurching...also known as pedalkicking. trashzen Click it

Tis fair dude Erm, compress, drop your front wheel...rip up on the bars and pull the bike into you. Also, lean into the wall

Noice, I says keep em like that

You want a nice thin disc. Maybe try and bed the disc in on some granite? Apart from that...probably your technique dude,,,

Forks look pimp, I says leave em

Off topic...but my god that Triton looks amazing....

As it will be a Tarty grind...and Tarty recommend a stone cutting disc.. I'd say that

Sounds ace.....as long as the venues sound along with the weather its all gravy

The tools, if ye need them, are at Halfords.

Ye, helps prevent creaking also

Like muel says...the pawls are probably stuck down with too much grease. Flush it through with WD or similar solvent then lube with a thin oil. If all else fails, tarty will, I'm sure, help you out

Heatsink Snowys and TNN LGM's are supposedly great on smooth. My coustellier CNC were pretty good on an atomlab smooth rim

good plan. remember, bar angle, lever angle and the amount of stem stackers can also make a pretty big difference to the ride and feel of the bike.

Nah, the reservoir is there to have a tiny bit of air inside...this air will just enter the system if ran upside down. So...its new lever ( or just body) or run your brake's Euro I'm afraid

That adaptor effectively gives you a 185 rear brake...or a 205 front. You'll need to downsize your adaptor to a 185 front....or buy a 203mm rotor and take a washer out.

Nah you don;t want any form of lubrication when two components are relying on an interference fit. There may be some kind of paste you could use though to help stop against the bi metal fusion ( not sure if thats only with ally and steel though? ).

I think theyre discontinued dude... That one above looks horrible tiny...lower front end than I run on my +40 Coust and kind of freakish with the angle of the stays to the ground

Nah the old ones are....new are 1090, 380, 72 +30....so really lush H.A looks mega slack on the one above though