LEON

I had a 2 finger blade, properly bled several times because I didn't believe that it was supposed to fee like that. They tried too hard & made a good thing crap.

I didn't measure anything., but I know a crappy brake when I feel it. Rather than do lots of experiments and find reasons to justify why the brake felt so spongy, I just went back to a nice brake. I like firm solid brakes, and after feeling a lot of these new ones on many different bikes, none of them felt as solid as mine. Regardless of frame/booster.

Then you have something wrong with the piston/bleed etc.

Not 100% what you mean, but why put them 0.5mm away? If the adjuster's fully loosened then yeah a little bit of wobble is normal, filling your brake to the brim will help that.

I've been riding 15 years, I grew up with the 98-04 model, they were great, solid, stiff, weak tpa but on the whole there wasn't much wrong. Never liked the 05, was a step back in most areas for me. I bought a mint barely used 2011 brake for my 24", it has a solid frame/booster set up that was absolutely rigid with my 04 brake, as soon as I put the new one on it was spongy as shit, I had the short 2 finger blade so don't let anyone tell you the "more leverage" crap, the body is made of Maguras own "high tech material" (plastic) and flexes a lot, I also found that lever pull seemed to give less pad travel than the older brake. I hated it to the point where it was making me ride worse. I was just massively disappointed & sold it that week & went back to a 12 year old brake, much better. I'd put them on a mountain bike if I had to, but never on a trials bike again. Then again some people love them.

Here's what I think of the new model HS33's. They're shit. (imo)

It'd be closer to a Skye with the dirt jump forks back on it, -10bb on a 24" is suicide.

Is it just 1st 2nd & 3rd place that are getting listed in each category?

90mm, the rise depends on your steerer/spacers/bars arrangement.

Yes and no, that's roughly the difference betwen Fattys and Pashleys, which I do notice, for me it's not enough to stop you doing anything, but I'm quite anal (not in a gay way) about front ends. On the other hand, you could gain/lose that 4mm by changing from a really chunky headset, to something really low stacked on the bottom, I had a huge chunky Woodman headset once, I also had a Cane creek S3 on the same bike which was tiny, I could defiitely notice the difference. Also, those Inspired steel forks are really straight, so extra length will be going fairly straight down, instead of down & forwards like on a more curved fork. (I know what I mean)

There aren't many people on earth who could ride the chains & rails he does, and he's been at it for about 15 years. No one even really sidehops to rails anymore either.

When will the shorter offset forks be available?

I like that, that last gap was brilliant.

The inspired fork is pretty much used as a street fork anyway, you won't find any on a comp bike, and TGS street riders always go for trialtechs or rockman/echo. So I think if they made them straighter they'd please everyone who uses or plans to use them, and this new fork looks a good start, hope it influences a fourplay fork revamp.

It's not something that requires extra effort though lol. Weld the legs on at less of an angle...The echo urbans between '09 & this year lost 15mm of rake, makes a world of difference. I mean if the team get straighter forks, there's obviously an advantage, the Skye forks are definitely straighter, there are just no negatives, even for a pogo stick, the reach will be no different, but your front wheel will be fractionally more tucked under you making all front wheel moves easier requiring less weight over the front, there are some tgs riders that put way too much emphasis on a wheelbase measurement without even considering the reach, I know couple, you tell them a measurement, if it's under 1085 they switch off.

Apparently! Via Peru, to save on postage...

What I don't get is....why only now is there a proper straight fork? I'd love a fork with 10mm rake instead of 40mm. I don't get why trials forks have had so much rake for the last 10+ years. Front wheel stuff made easier and backwheel stuff not affected, so WHY??? I like my inspired forks, but I wish they were straighter (I'm positive the team ones are)

This should be funny/relevant to your interests... Even managed to plug GET and Marino bike! It's a newspaper, and things have been exaggerated, I mentioned there's a bit of cash in the novice category and some frames & bits up for grabs, but they will write what they write! There were 2 much better riding pics I thought they'd use.

Yeah me too, I wasn't interested when they were £20 lol. I grew up on factory DH lol, but back then the 26" had a F and R specific, the rear had the blocks spaced closer together, I really liked the tyre, it was bigger than 2.3 even on a skinny rim, but they were out of fashion before we had wide rims, I like them. These 24" ones aren't F & R specific so it's a compromised mix, wider spacing than an old rear, more like a front. I only had a quick roll around the road today, they're better once you wear off the top layer & they stop screeching. Puncture & stability wise they're pretty rigid, I don't think you'll be disappoited, they're not Maxxis dual ply solid, but they're not Dmr flimsy either. Might be a bit too knobbly but for £8 I don't care, I'll try and have a proper ride this weekend.

There's also Tioga factory DH. Not everyone's cup of tea but for £7.99 I had to try it. http://www.chainreac...x?ModelID=86959 Haven't ridden it properly yet but it's much thicker than a moto digger, wider too, more drag on concrete obviously, but it's not much heavier either. They're definitely better on punctures than DMR too.

Yeah they feel really plastic, really hard compound that's lethal on concrete/rails.They're probably ok-ish on dirt but I'd never touch one again for urban. I once had a Schwalbe space 2.35 folding tyre "puncture protection" (lighter than the basic version) it was a fairly soft compound & really bouncy, big tall profile too, I quite liked it, can't remember ever getting a puncture either. I'd say they're worth a go for trials especially if you get them cheap. I'm pretty stuck for tyres, I don't get along with semi slicks, but I don't want a tractor tyre either, I'd like some of the Danny Mac Continentals. I use moto diggers, they're soft, grippy, feel good, but they're crap with punctures and wear out fast.

No problem, I'm pretty sure they're just some cheapy "duro" type tyre with a Halo logo stuck on it (they peel off)

I've had a choir boy lite, and in my opinion, they feel very cheap, they're a really narrow 2.35 too, more like an old Kujo 2.25 and have a lip that sits over the edge of the rim, limiting brake pad positioning a little bit if you have a small braking surface. I wouldn't bother, too small for a rear, and too cheap & nasty for the front. A moto digger is much bigger & grippier, they do wear really quick on the street though. Read some reviews on the choir boy, they're not very good

I think I probably forgot to email amongst the rush/excitement of finishing the vid, getting it out there, reading the comments and watching all the other vids out there too. So you have at least 1 email from me!

I'm not sure if I did email you a link directly so I did just now to glasseyetrialscreative@gmail.com just incase.