TrialsMan Dan

Hmm, not sure if in gonna get used to this new layout, though it certainly looks fresh i prefered the look of the old skin. Mobile version is still the same though which is nice!

with cable discs you need to ensure the caliper is completely square. Best way to do this is loosen bolts on the adaptor and caliper (not the direct mount to the fork/frame) align the caliper by eye them pull the lever on. Now nip up the bolts with the lever still on. Once done let go of the leverage, spin the wheel to make sure it spins freely and the brake should now lock well

i have a query thats related, what would be the best way of going about spraying raw parts? I have raw echo forks (they come like that standard) and they have laquer on top. I know someone at a car repair and spray centre that can do it professionally but is there a way i can do it at home and get a good result? What paint would be best? My dad is handy at spraying cars and has a spray gun and that but no access to an oven for a better finish. Maybe wait til summer eh? But yeah help appreciated as id like to have black forks again soon

while on the topic of snail cams im looking to change my frame soon, looking at a because simple street which takes snail cams, can i run my hope pro 2 hub on that too or will i need to use tugs instead?

Hope to see you at the comps with that beast Lewis, bagsy having a go on it at the first chance eh? looks really nice though looks really delicate around the seat/chainstay area, maybe just me used to seeing alu frames. Love the colour and dual disc for the win!

Must be something wrong with mine then im forever having problems and the Effect frame is basically the same as the old ET around the seatstay/chainstay area. Ive found that my non drive side pad is wearing down faster than the drive side and at an angle whereas the drive side is perfect. Also when i go to set my brake up the lower mounting plate always seems to move and the clamps move a bit too, might be due to my pads not equal? Im getting my wheels back from my LBS soon anyway as they are in for a quick tune and i'll get some fesh pads to see if it makes any difference.

probably true i had unbranded wheels for a while before i got my Atomlabs and they seem to come up better when ground. Yes it is true you can run a maggie on vee mounts with the Evo 2 adaptors but they are very difficult to set up properly and the pads always wear down at an angle somewhere or one pad wears down faster than the other (is there a secret to get it right?) and from recent experience the clamps come loose and move slightly under heavy braking, unless i am tightening the bolts too tight? Someone want to guide me to the correct method of set up cause im inreasingly moving towards changing for a disc on the rear.

Ha i've no idea and thats quite embarrasing considering i should have asked him, im going to college soon to do a similar course so these are the sort of things i should be finding out haha :$

Just thought id post up a pic that my mate got of me from a wee night time street sesh, he's currently studying HND Photography at College and would like to get his work more recognised once he's completed the course, some examples of his work are featured in the link. Anyway here goes.... Link to his Facebook page Hope you enjoy, comments/criticisms welcome. Dan

sounds good

Simple, clean and tidy. I like it alooooot

Win

kinda off topic but how do you measure the rise of a stem if its unknown, i have a stem that i may be selling and i think its between 8 and 12 degree rise but im not sure, its an unbranded alloy stem too so ive no idea. How would i go about it?

Reet guys just wondering if theres anyone that can help me out giving some useful tips to help me nail this damned trick, im not even sure what its proper name is but it looks cool and yeah it is quite an advanced move but i guess trying the harder stuff is the only way to improve my riding. I can get the up to rear bit (easy) and the jist of the swap itself (kinda difficult) but the bit that annoys me is keeping on the front wheel then keeping the bike high enough before dropping off again. Im only practsing on curbs and smallish ledges the now no more than about a foot high but once ive got the move dialled i'll progress to bigger stuff. For those wondering what on earth im on about just look at 5:32 and around 6:00 mins on the video in the link (yeah i could have found something that got straight to the point but i knew it was in this ) Oh and if anyones got any tips on the fakie nose roll that would be cool Dan

could be in edinburgh around the 5th or 6th march but im told to go to glasgow first........

doesnt the new fourplay frames have disk only and no magura mounts?

Okay and so how do you tighten the bolt? Ive got a 5mm hex bolt on there, im guessing i'll need something a bit bigger?

So who made the Ashton frames back then?

Exactly. Yes and by proper i mean his own brand on the frames, i know they used to be made by orange but they werent getting all the recognision for it, its like Martyn just got Orange to produce frames for him, i know its the same with DB but they have all their branding on the frame too.

But for a good [price, the cheapest Inspired new is still close to a grand

I have the earlier Urbans, but they have an oversized steer tube thickness.

You guys need to come down to Dumfries specifically for a day of riding, theres alot about here, loads of places you havent ridden, i can easily organise a tour guide for yous as well

Reet guys im running an Urban fork now which has an extra thick steerer tube and i am aware it requires a different star nut to most forks. I used to have an Ashton fork which had a hollow star nut for running your brake cable/hose through the head tube. I would like to run my cable through the head tube again but im struggling to find a suitable star nut, or is there only one that fits Echo forks? I noticed a while ago that Danny Mac used to run a Hifi fork, im assuming the steerer tube is the same as the Urban, so how did he manage to run his brake hose through the steerer tube? Any help appreciated on this! Dan

Yess, would love to see a return of the 'proper' ashton bikes, not some deal with a manufacturer that makes great frames then specs them with the weirdest parts.... Ha now that is something i would love to see, some actual 'trialsable' complete bikes, rather than buying something where only the frame is good enough.

Much like Dumfries when you know where to ride