trials hoe

i bought some of these ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magura-Rim-Brake-Pads-Orange-HS11-HS22-HS33-HS66-HS77-/200726832758?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2ebc406676 ) ages ago, the pad compound and colour is pretty similar to the 70a compound ones i made if that helps....but i'd guess and say most pads are upwards of 90a myself, but that said i don't know how much difference 5/10 shore difference will make...i can say the 70a is a lot softer than the cousts i have how much are the pre-made blocks for how much quantity? the 2 part mix i got was 20 quid for 500g (total) should get 50/60 pads out of that much of the mix once i get a mould made, cutting the shape of the pad recess isn't fun at all.

i've reused olives loads of times, fair easy to bodge. take the olive (no hose left in it) grip it in some long nose plyers, take a cross headed screwdriver and push it into the olive and twist the screwdriver round until the hose will fit through (will need to do it to both sides). does help if you have something to press everything against like a wall...then fit again as normal odd one to explain, but it makes more sense when you have all the bits in front of you.

how are you having the issue with chain tension? doesn't the rockman have integrated tensioners? if you ran it the other way up (guessing you mean tensioning the chain upwards from the dropout, above the chainstay) it'll have loads of slack when you get power on, it'll only hold tension when it's coasting or unloaded. that would make for a seriously bumhole clenching ride, but i'm probably misunderstanding what you said haha. good thing about spoke tensioners is that even if it gets a good bashing and no longer holds tension on the chain you can just bend it back out 'till it does or just make another...i have spokes all over the place haha I'm sure I'm not the only one. i found plain gauge spokes worked better than butted ones too.

i was watching a vid on pootube the other day, a SFX company made a pair of scissors and they used 2 different types of the pu stuff (can't remember which ones exactly) one to keep the rigidity of the shape and one (think it was the 60a shore version of the one i got) to make them 'soft' enough to allow them "to be thrown at people in the office." i'll have a look for it in a bit, could be an option to mix in a small % of something that would be rigid enough to give the pad a more solid feel without making it too much harder shore wise. or i might go find a relevant forum and ask on there, someone will have had the same problem an found a solution to it.

cheers just had a look at those microballoons, sounds like they're designed towards reducing density and cost (yet to see anything about an additive reducing the amount of compression) in my head something less dense will compress more? or some kind of 'fibers' sounds like a better shout to me, a bit like chopped strand glass fiber maybe? .don't want to add anything that will affect the 'performance' of the pads grip/bite on the rim.

i wanted one from the first time i saw it in leisure lakes, was between that and an orange zero. can't remember last time i saw one of them either haha did want a 24mhz back in the day too, would make a shit hot hippy hoppy fart around commuter type bike...wouldn't mind one of those still today. did i post those pads to you? i'm buggered if i can remember weather or not i did, i assume i did as i can't find 'em now haha

bee's wax worked a treat rigged a quick mould (type thing) together with some g clamps and some cut up laminate floor (leftovers), just so i knew what the 70a compound was going to be like...the wait for me to get a proper mould together was going to be too long with me being an impatient twat. frankly i could have done a much better job, but this was more about 'knowing' than anything else. performance is bang-on other than the squishiness of the pad it's self, i'm aiming towards a pad for a smooth rim rather than a ground one (grind in the pic is dead) but they won't last overly long on a grind, that said for how much the mix cost vs how many pads it makes its viable to run a grind too from a cost perspective. anyhoo...any PU gurus on here? are there and additives i can add to the mixture before moulding to reduce the amount of compression the end product has? abuse opinions are welcome on my piss-poor effort

merlin trials (i think) handsomedog rockhound vario tibo (not the xl) slight gap for a decade or so... 06 control 07 pure 09 control echo 24 breath stock because simple 24

that's the stuff!, found it on amazon...damn expensive! looks like there are a few similar things about that behave like it too (super hydrophobic coatings), was looking to coat the mould with something that would act as a release agent at the same time as fixing the porous nature of a wooden mould i was planning of making...just not at that price haha reckon bee's wax would suffice? same as some use for fiberglass/carbon mould release agent, so i'm guessing it would work, don't want to have a mould with pads stuck in it i can't use haha

how much further is everyone else? have got the pu mix stuff now after a trip to the sorting office (always grim)... also made a blank from plaster and found it was way to brittle to be used as a mould so that's now out of the window, was thinking of making it out of wood instead an giving it a coat of that funky laquor that nothing can stick too...if only i could remember what it was called, anyone else remember it's name and where i can get it or something similar? if it helps i saw it in a video where they coated a multitude of random objects with it then put green liquid on it, was a fascinating watch so someone must know what i'm on about

yeah, closest i come to using mixed stuff is with glue so i'm assuming the 'demould time' is like saying touch dry with paint. looking to run on a smooth rim setup, not the biggest fan of grinds myself. just picked 70 as a 'that sounds about right' guide haha how many are having a go at this with what compounds so far?

might have access to a vacum forming machine (or whatever they're called) think that might be a better option. the e-crap listing for the mix i'm looking at says "30 min @ 70*C" and "60 min @ room temp" so 4 hours might be a bit too long haha unless it differs form each companies ingredients if your directions say different

yeah, make them for the biggest fit backings, then cut them down for others sounds like the right approach i've measured everything up, i plan on making a negative out of wood, then make a mould from that with some of the 2 part mix stuff, then use that as the mould and will still have an original negative to make another from if i ruin it...which probably will haha not sure if i should go for a harder or softer compound mix than the pad material for the mould it's self yet though.

have you measured all the recess area of the backing/pad? i'm looking into getting some of the 2 part mix stuff, making a mould but i measured my pads/backing at 7mm (internal with of recess of backing and external of the pad) then looked on tarty and they say 8mm. i don't have any other backings to measure for reference and don't want to make pads that'll only fit my backings, just unsure if i have odd pads and backings (unsure what they are got them from the f/s on here, will attach a pic if someone could identify them for definite that would be cool ) also i worked out the area:weight of my pad and the 250g (x2) mix i'm going to get about 70 pads from the lot with 10mm of material (by my maths*, so it'll probably be way off ) don't want to make X amount of pads the wrong size so if anyone can clear up the size (width) flap i've found my self in, that'd be cool...then i can crack on making a mould

when i did engineering at college (had to start at the bottom on an nvq, then to a gnvq and then a btec) i was told that the associated qualifications included in the course (applied science and maths for engineering, communications ect.) were the 'equivalent' to an a level qualification (for the btec) in the same area (science, maths and english), never quite understood what was meant by 'equivalent' an never got a straight answer either. so they were probably pulling my leg and trying to make me feel better as i have no gcse's, then laughing at me behind my back

could do a chargeback thing through your bank maybe? defo worth a try.

ahh its cool i found it, it's the only thing i posted to a wirral postcode will pm you his address now mate.

there's a few from that neck of the woods on here i think..... did you get the guys last name? it'll be on the recipt, will make my life a bit easier to find it

i've sold some bits to him on pb before, you know his address? ill have a look through my postage recipts for you and see if i can't find it for you if you want

2 weeks is a long time to post a bike off.... name and shame! then go down and bash the f**k outta the twat till you get your cash back.

i thought it was down to the cranks? if your fw was eccentric all its internals would fall out at the loose point surely? if the threads are cut at a different time to the splines the threaded section could easily be eccentric to the splines causing the issues with chain tension. the sl fw i've had on 3 different sets of cranks have all had a different amount of loose-tight movement. also i set up at the tight point too, just so its not too tight and make do with it. the tight point on mine is right foot forward so there is no slack when hopping around. must be a pain for the lefty guys having a flappy chain, assuming everyone else has the tight spot right foot forward, all mine have been....

being that the rockmans are 'new' to the market, the only choice everyone has had are the tt/inspired when it came to high rise bars hence why i'm asking about the rockmans.....