niconj

Inspired? Out of stock at Tarty but I suppose they will get new ones soon.

Here's where the riding starts. Until 9:00 then skip to 13:47-15:15.

Or get one of these:

No problem. If you haven't yet, get some Trialtech pads (assuming you've got the Trialzone on your bike).

No creaking sound that is. It's pad knock. You can either wait for it to disappear as the pistons work "into" the brake pad backings or you can try applying a thin layer of duct tape on the back of your pads. It will get less eventually. Have a look at my video and listen closely. It's a Saint rear brake and it's even worse than your sound.

If it is too snowy, I'll get out my comp bike and do some basics. In fact, it has just started to snow.

Not yet. It's supposed to snow tonight. That's why I went out riding. It was cold though. -10°C.

I got up there from the harder side but not as I wanted.

I didn't ask for help regarding air in the system as this isn't the case. I asked whether the fluid would be suitable for disk brakes as well or whether there would be any disadvantage I haven't thought of yet except for the apparent heat issue (which in Trials doesn't matter).

Will do so. I was just wondering about the fluid destroying the seals or something. Since you've got the Maguras for free, you are less reluctant to try those things. BTW: How did you get the oil out of the MT7 before bleeding it with Trialtech fluid?

Yes and no. It is a symptom of air in the system but also of some Shimano brakes that don't have any air in the system. There's a big discussion going on right now on another forum with some specialists (not Shimano) trying to shed light on the issue. Something to do with the compensation bore being to small and Shimano fluid having a viscosity that is too high to be able to flow back quick enough when pulling the lever a couple of times in a row (especially at lower temperatures).

Have you never experienced (Shimano not Magura brakes) that the bitepoint moves away from the handlebars when pulling the lever quickly a couple of times? A fluid with lower viscosity should do the trick (as Putoline seems to do for MTB riders here in Germany).

I have had some Shimano disc brakes that, when pulling the lever quickly a couple of times, move the bite point away from the handlebar. This seems to be a mechanic disadvantage that most of the Shimano brakes have (and Trail riders start to complain about it with the new XT 8000 series). Some people started using "Putoline" as a replacement for the Shimano Oil and it seems to get rid of the problem due to it's lower viscosity. My question is whether the Trialtech fluid would be suitable for Shimano disc brakes as well. In trials we don't care about the boiling temperature and since the fluid works in a HS33 without destroying the seals, it should work in a Shimano brake as well (I have run Shimano Brakes with Royal Blood without problems).

It still is. 6th of January.

The MT5/7 perform perfectly. Don't get me wrong. I wasn't able to fault my brakes even with only a 180mm rotor on the rear (Trialtech pads). It's just that I hate rubbing rotors. You don't actually notice it that much but I do, and if you do happen to hit your rotor, it becomes really annoying. Saints are so much butter in this aspect. As for the lever... that's just personal preference. I like the 810 more than the MTs. The 820 are crap though which makes Magura the only good choice nowadays as the 810 won't have a revival.

I got the 810 Saints for 100. I ran the MT5s (same as the MT7s expect for the lever) and wasn't happy with them. The perform very well but I hate it when the rotor rubs on the pads and since the gap is so small, this happens very quick.

Got myself a very cheap set of BR-M810. They are in mint condition and I prefer them to the MT5s but only because of the pad clearance. I hate rubbing rotors and I sometimes hit them slightly when doing weird moves. Still happy with the bike though. No need to change the color of the rims.

Would be insane to see him and Bersha playing a game of bike.

Toast is cool as well (or some chickens for breakfast).

I thought that hooks were done this way.

Thanks. I don't know what "shunt" is though. As I tried to hook this I really had the feeling that I could just roll up onto it. What would be cool though would be to get onto the rear real quick for getting down again. Or a bunny hop to frenchie. This would be even cooler. On a side note. Whenever I tried to hook this, I had your words in my head about hooking being easier when done without brakes. As I pull the brakes whenever I'm scared, this helped tons not to pull the levers right after take off. Thanks.

I finally found some place where I can start learning hooks without having to run up to a straight wall. It never occurred to me that I could actually try to get up on the other side of this rock. I always went up the easy way. It isn't really a hook as I'm partly rolling up onto it before doing the hop onto the rear but it's a start.

got some beef?

True. then never mind.

I take it you use Hope adapter? If not, get some or you won't have your Zee on the rear for long.