george_seamons

Nowhere did Luke say he was increasing the power. You're changing the story to suit your arguement AGAIN. Nobody is saying they aren't better; they ARE better...when at their optimum operating temperature. They are shit when cold (compared to OEM pads at the same temperature). On a road car that is going to spend 90% of its life with cold brakes, OEM pads WILL be better. Your stubborness doesn't change that fact. The optimum temperature window of an OEM pad is lower than that of DS2500's. That is why they are better for "normal" driving. I'm well aware of how to bed them in. Again, doesn't change the fact they don't work properly without using them a bit first.

Give it up Jardo. You're wrong; you can't bullshit your way out of this one. You need to step back and learn to listen to people who know what they're saying.

You're an idiot then. If we're talking emergency stops, the OEM pads would stop you better than any race pad, in a normal road situation. 100% DS2500's just dont get up to temperature enough with normal road driving to be any better than OEM pads. Probably worse if anything. Its only when you start doing multiple HARD stops, and prolonged slowing down that the OEM pads show their weaknesses.

To get Brembos (and presumably you'd want him to have ds2500's too) your looking at the best part of £600+ (unless you get lucky and get second hand ds2500's in the deal). That's a LOT of money for something that will probably never get utilised to make it worth £600+ You could probably get a set of OE front and rear discs and pads for less than £150, which would be more than adequate for a "normal" road car. A whole set of discs and pads vs. a set of front pads...for your average Joe, its hardly a difficult decision. Obviously this all depends on Rainbird's funds though...he might be willing to spend the extra.

The way you drive, you could make a car with wooden pads lap faster than him!

Regardless of the sentimental value, it looks shit. ...could possibly be improved by being black, but you've just massively chavved your fairly classy interior

I think they are more aimed at the enthusiast who likes a good hoon, and the occasional track day, without being too serious. I must admit, as good as they are in their "window", I dont think I'd buy them again. They have to be warmed up to be any good, but if you give it too much, they fade (found that out to my detriment on the last track day I did with them). Added to the fact they are mega expensive for what they are, and the fact they DESTROY discs (as well as wearing them really quickly, they leave deposits on them that render any other pad useless), its a bit of a downhill slope for anybody other than the odd hooner!

We would've seen 1000000 pictures of them, so I dont believe you I'm afraid.

Well yeah, if he can afford them, it'd obviously be benieficial...but if not, standard pads are fine. Depends what he wants from, and plans for the car really. £50 is a set of discs. Not everbody has the funds, or indeed wants mental brakes. If better is better...why haven't you got carbon cermic discs and 8 pot calipers?

Jardo, Toby IS right. They DO need a bit of heat to be any good. They are "ok" until a few hardish pushes of the pedal, then they come to life, but before that, they are no better than a standard pad. Your graph is all well and good, but they are all primarily "race" pads, not road pads. Even DS2500's say not to be used on the road on the box... If Luke isn't planning on upping the power, or going silly speeds or anything, is there really any point spending out on DS2500's?! Yes, they are a very good pad, but if they aren't going to be used to their full potential, there's no point spending the extra. As long as you don't go stupidly cheap budget, you'll be fine Luke. Just don't get EBC pads, I haven't heard a good word said about them for years! Toby, 20mm hubcentric spacers are about £50. By the time you've got 2 lots of spigot rings, you're probably looking at £20. Its not worth pissing about with safety for that.

Just buy proper spacers, they're not exactly expensive! 2 lots of spigot rings sounds pikey as f**k. Your wheels are the only thing connecting you to the ground...dont f**k about with them!

Just spent £400 on anti roll bars for the Leon...oops! I had to sort the front out, because it was creaking like mad, so I thought I may as well upgrade it while its out, and sell the old one. However, when I took it out, I found the plastic collars which hold the bushes are completely shot...all brittle and cracked; so obviously couldn't sell it Ended up with a brand new OEM mk4 Golf R32 23mm replacement, with Powerflex bushes. I had a Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear bar (which I have now sold) but obviously changing the front from 19mm to 23mm, the difference was now too little, which will make it understeery again; so I went for a Neuspeed 28mm adjustable rear. Hopefully they make enough of a difference to warrent the price!

Cam you pass it on to him? Facebook is retarded and hides messages from people you aren't friendswith. Hopefully then he'll know to keep any eye out.

I'm getting an R32 front arb this week, so if anybody wants a 19mm LCR front arb, hit me up. Looking for £55 posted (its bloody heavy!).

Inlet or exhaust manifold? Either way, its not a good idea to leave it. Jardo's dad managed to get a snapped exhaust stud out of his head, in the car. Which is nothing short of legendary! Very worst case is you'll need to take it off, and get it to a machine shop to get it drilled out If you dont sort it out, it WILL blow the gaskets, and leak like a bitch.

Wheels look awesome in that colour. REALLY like it! Swap for some LCR wheels?!

Nah, his is 2.5", mine is 3". Plus the downpipes are totally different.

Jealous of how much stuff you get for £1k with a Cupra compared to an R! Managed to get the supersize TIP, 3" downpipe & decat, cobra non-res cat back exhaust, Pipercross cone filter, fmic kit, rear brakes and pads, genuine thermostat, 5l of G12 coolant, 5l VAG oil, fuel filter, oil filter, air filter (anybody want a new standard filter for postage?!), pollen filter, angled lambda spacer and spark plugs for £870! Said to him to allow £20ish for any gaskets needed, and said £100 to fit it all...and he still has enough change from his £1k for a pint at the end of it! I would have run out of money after the exhaust and fmic on mine, haha!

Everybody knows I'm a pimp daddy, that's why! The lights only flash 3 times, so it hardly seems worth doing anything about. This weekend I have coilovers to fit to said vectra, some vinyl wrap to apply to the boot strip, and lights to tint. Next weekend I have a downpipe/decat to fit to the Leon, as well as a cat-back exhaust, an FMIC, a Pipercross cone filter, an SFS supersize turbo intake pipe, a thermostat, a coolant temperature sensor, a full service, and rear brake discs and pads. Then at some point in the near future, I have rods to fit to another Leon, and a big turbo install too. ...think I should have been a mechanic!

Went with a mate of mine to buy the clone of Rainbird's car...52 plate Cupra. £2150 with a stage 1 remap. Very nice car...leather interior, auto-shizzle blah blah blah. Has given me £1k to modify it. Let the games commence!

Change the bulb first, that's the obvious one. Chances of 2 looms being dodgy causing the same problem is pretty slim. Slimmer than a bulb blowing anyway.

You're about 2 years late on that trend Jardo A3's do look good on LM's though, loved mine!

Ah yeah, that makes sense! I better pick some more grease up too; they came with "special" grease, but I only had copper grease when I put them back in, so I just lubed them up with some engine oil (I knew they would have to come back out!). Better get my file out at the weekend then! 1mm might have been a bit of an exagerating, its probably not as much as that to be fair.

May have found the cause of my creaking suspension. I put the car up on axle stands, and kept jacking and lowering the wheel to try and replicate the noise. Turns out the squeaking is coming from the wishbone front bush (its a Superpro polybush). It seems the sleeve which goes between the two bush halves is shorter than the bushes themselves, when installed in the wishbone. This means that the wishbone is rotating around bush, rather than the bush around the sleeve inside the bush. I tried to cure it by filing a bit off either side of the wishbone collar, but I still need to take 1mm or so off by the looks of it. The only thing that concerns me slightly is the bushes have a crosshatching inside where the sleeve goes, so I half wonder if I've misunderstood how they work?

Pussys. Big flat-head screwdriver and a hammer is all that's needed.