Ali C

Tartybikes offer a helicoil service on cranks, so yes, it is fixable.

It may also be worth taking off the mech, shifters and cassette. This will save a ton of weight and have less chance of the chain jumping off. you would need a tensioner though (you could turn the mech indo a heavy version) and you would need to take a cog from the cassette that you want to use and some spacers to take up the space of the other cogs. You could buy a specific spacers kit (£10) or you could take the small spacers out from between the cogs on the cassette and use those (you would need at least two cassetes to get enough spacers thoigh, check your local bike shop, they replaces them all the time and would happily give you an old worn out cassette). As for brakes, rear disks do have the power, but the length of the spokes means they have a slight flex which takes away the feel of precision when on the rear wheel. What mounts does the frame have? (I can't tell from the picture). If it has dedicated Magura mounts, it will be cheaper to stick with Maguras. If it has vee mounts with an adaptor for Maguras, I would use vees (I am a big fan of vee brakes). As mentioned, pads and a grind makes a huge difference to the power too. Don't be afraid to experiment with different bar and lever positions, or maybe different stem and bars all together, they change the feel of the bike massivly.

The Clan will be there, I havn't heard from Danny though, so I can't confirm he will be there.

Nice one James, that's a good video

They probably didn't know. They are riders, not designers

they arn't the worse frame in the world, but I think they could have made it better quite easily (mainly in the looks department)

take your brakes off (seriously)

I wouldn't be looking at the Impulse frames for ideas on how to build frames personally

get ready to do a lot of walking then

a long stem will be fine for manuals but mainly in a straight line. A short high setup will make things feel more natural as the bike will pop up easier (which is what you want). As for wallrides, you need to go fairly fast, it's not something you can do half arsed. You can learn on sloped stuff, but for a vertical wall you need to lean your body over quite far and go in at an angle great enough for you to stick to the wall, but not too steep that you just bounce off (my main problem with them).

the new Trialtech is the best out in my mind, pretty much the lightest out, but with a super strong axle and bearings. my proto lasted and lasted and it still on one of my bikes now.

yeah, flow is key. Learn to use whats around to keep speed, learn to hop stuff without pedaling, there's nothing worse than a bitch crank where it's not needed (this included going into spins). i't will also help to learn to spin the correct way. Trials can be a b*****d to a rider for spins as it often makes riders spin in the un-natural direction. If you are right foot forward, you spin to the left and so on. It will also help if you can avoid using the brakes and try not to hop where not needed. Once you have these sorted, go out and let your imagination go wild

I actually like it. It looks like its had thought put into the whole frame rather than thrown together. The colour is cool too as is the weight. Lets hope its a good price too.

have you got any old freewheels or screw on cogs? the thread is the same on both so you could run it through the freewheel and use it as a dye to clean the threads up.

loving the work, that welding looks as good as some frames you can buy too. I do have two things I am not keen on (though one is just cosmetic). You have welded the tubes to the headtube before adding gussets? I was always told this was the incorrect way to do them. My understanding is for the gusset to be working as it should, it needs to be welded to the tube (top or down tube) before cut to fit and welded to the headtube. In theory you should be able to drip oil down the open end of the gusset and have the oil able to get on the inside of the downtube. I understand this allows any flex to be spread down the tube rather than being concentrated at the weld. I am also not keen on Alu frames where the tubes don't meet at the head tube (just ask the guys at Tartybikes!). I do love it with steel frames though and it is just a cosmetic thing, so nothing serious. but yeah, keep it up, can't wait to see the final pictures!

I have seen Sam Pilgrim do it once into soft sand, plus he doesn't exactly make many videos showcasing his riding (or not that I have seen). Scotty Cranmer has done it very well a few times, but I havn't seen anyone other than he and Danny do them properly, it's so new it can still be classed as pushing the envolope in my eyes.

wrap a chain around the cog, but leave a link out so it looks a little something like this (but round) ------------^--------------- That little triangle will offer more grip in the vice and hold the cog solid. Then you want a nice long pole you can fit over the crank (an old frame work well too). Then the cog should come off with no problems.

I remember catching a train to a Clan demo and going over the bridge and seeing those islands with those buildings and thinking how cool they would be to ride. I went to Danny's house later and told him that I wanted to go riding there, but unfortunately for me he had already seen them and had been to scope it out and take pictures. The rest is history.

hmm, sounds normal, maybe it's pretty thick annodising.

was the solution you using steaming and rumbling?

I had go on an old Ashton Justice recently, one with a 0bb hight. It felt like my legs were too far in front of me when on the backwheel. Made it feel really strange to do anything spinny.

that has a curved seat tube. On closer inspection, what I thought was a corner on the downtube (like the Echo pures have) is just a shadow/light effect, so it is most likely to be a levelboss

isn't it an Echo team 04? It's got the larger downtube similar to a Pure frame.

you do know the video is a story about him traveling across Scotland to a specific location right? The locations and scenery are as much part of the vid as the riding.

I have been in touch with Guinness, but they seem to think that a bunnyhop is the same as a sidehop which is rather annoying. the high bb and steep headagle thing, I am on about the reach. if you have a lower bb it will make the reach longer. You sound like you are rather oldschool in your preferences with a low bb and then a slack head angle to make the reach short again. all I am saying is that if you make the bb higher to make the bike spin and pop better, then you can make the head angle steeper to give tighter steering and more control when doing front wheel moves and still have a short enough reach to be able to bunnyhop. Yes you may need to add a spacer or two (I love high front ends, makes it feel more like a bmx cockpit) but that's a small price to pay.