SQuiT-man

When you say "good welds", are you talking about what they look like, and how much care appears to have gone into them, or HOW WELL THEY HOLD TOGETHER? The zoos and echos of today seem to be very strong, and VERY stiff compared to steel frames, yet also light and cheaper. Think of how many zoo pythons have been sold, and the useage they have been put through, yet how many have broken? Those that have broken are often just due to manufacturing problems, and have been replaced. I dont think steel bikes are bad, I would like to have a more stereotypically "modern" UCI geometry one like one that has been posted above, as the flexy properties of steel allow them to be springier, but as steel is heavier, tubes have to be made thinner and this often results in very easily dented tubes..?

The pedals arent too neccessary, thats upto your opinion, but DEFINATELY get a new bar and stem - I found on my tpro this made a huge difference. The Plaz pads seem a good idea too, Id say go for it all

I have onza carbon risers (28.5 inch), but I'd stick with what you have mate, zoo bars'll be just as good.

Yeh, slightly lower quality and different shaped frame (doesnt look quite as "trialsy" as the Ti.) heres an email Cleanbikes sent me: "Hi Scott Sorry to take so long to reply, I've been away on holiday. Can I suggest that you study the pictures of the frames on the websites "bikes" page, here http://www.cleanbikes.co.uk/Monty%20Bikes.htm Whilst the frames look very similar, there are some geometry differences, as well as such as the 221 Ti now has rear disc mounts, integrated brake booster, the in-built 'stop steering system' etc, and the seat tube is at a different angle. Obviously the price reflects design and quality differences with the 221 Pro costing £120.00 and the 221 Ti costing £531.50. Hope that helps. Cheers Cleanbikes"

I used mine for street, they are fine.

Yeh Im pretty sure Danny Butlers been riding one, they look liek they would ride pretty nice, but long (only 15mm BB ride, as opposed to a lot of other long bikes higher BBs)

Yeh I heard a lot of bad things about those USE forks, too. But some riders loved the flex and used it to their advantages with different moves that they found became easier. Meh. If he finds no problem with them, then good for him!

If that would be a reasonable price, I would definately buy it, and Im sure a lot of other riders would too. However, im sure it will be collossally expensive and therefore I'll probably not.

Going large there, nice.

Personally, I dont think its too bad on the main one in that topic (the top one).

Try lurching up and down things, generally improve your backwheel control. Can you actually backhop on the spot (e.g. hop on the back wheel on the spot, or (slowly) forwards without pedalling at all)? Learn this, then learn to turning backhop clockwise and anticlockwise on the spot maybe? Its up to you, depends what kind of style riding you want to aspire to!

What are there out there in the way of long mod forks? E.g. 375mm+ Which are longer out of monty x-lite forks and echo teams (the pre-2005, lightweight versions with the non-CNC'd crown)? Cheers, Scott

Sounds awesome, will DEFINATELY be my next rim if it holds a grind well/ is made out of the same material as a DX32!

Try having the brakepads set up correctly, flat to the rim, and have the grind in lines pointing DIRECTLY towards the centre of your wheel, towards the hub. This should help stop your brake working one way better than the other.

That was 51 inches over bar

Thats an interesting idea about the tyre pressure making the tube grip inside the tyre, I hadnt thought about that. I do use a lot of taulcuum powder already though, its real slippy on the inside of the tyre. If I was to use moped inner tubes, would that most likely completely stop me getting pinches though?

Hi, Does anyone know of a heavy-duty tube I can use in my 19" rear mod wheel? I heard Monty ones were good, but when I ordered one from cleanbikes, a "Monty Ultra-lite" one came that was basically the same as the other really lightweight ones I have used before on my mod- I have already had two pinches while running very high p.s.i. with my maxxis creepy crawlers! Id only really resort to moped innertubes if I really had to, but how much do they weigh? Also, what rear tubes to other people who run low p.s.i. use, such as CLS, etc? Cheers, Scott

Lol, how do the batch, monty and python compare? I may well be going from my monty 221 to a python frame..

Awesome. Cheers Tart!

Lol, can noone still confirm the chainstay length?

Higher rise will help you bunny, but you might find a shorter stem might help more. My mate changed his easton (long-ish) stem to a short raceface one and it felt MUCH better for bunnyhopping in my opinion :angry:

Overall I would have said they were fine, however I was a bit disapointed with my viz rim that I purchased. Its 40mm wide in some areas and 39mm in others (it isnt even on the seam where the rim joins together), which is pretty bad considering I run a rim brake and chose to not have a disk hub to save a few grammes- it means I cant modulate my front brake much at all, or set it up too close to the rim as it may rub on certain areas and not in others. If Id know this I would have just got a disk setup atleast, its probably what ill end up doing in the end.

Yeh. So how long are the stays on the zona zip? Also Tart, what material is the frame made of? Cheers, Scott

No, normal pythons (the CLS version, or also probably 04) have 375mm stays- the same as the stock pitbull! I find 362mm stays too short from personal experience- you really notice the difference and I feel like they shift too fast before you can put all your power through.

TRA has done over 55 though, unofficially, as has benito- the 10-pallet sidehop he attempted, if you work it out, is more like 60 (although he didnt quite make it). Yeh I think that gap thing was with a 8 foot runup or looked around that far. Im sure all of the official world records have been beaten unofficially anyway.