Krisboats

I don't reckon the bike is too short for you and i think the old ashtons were a 1040 wheelbase. Unless you have a silly small stem that has the bars practically touching the steerer tube it'll be fine.. I have a similar length bike and i'm 6 foot 5. Thing is i think the majority of us got back pains when we first started out because the muscles that are tensed up on the rear wheel aren't really used for anything in everday life... as the muscles strengthen though the pain goes away. I still get mid-back pains occasionally after massive riding sessions but they're always muscular. If it is anything other than muscular go and see your doctor.

My mates called me BOATS because i have big feet. pretty much everyone i know calls me it apart from family memebers and strangely enough not many girls call me it either. Oh well, it could have been an offensive name i suppose. And if you were wondering just how big they are.... UK 15

I just e-mailed them with this. I tried to keep it as polite as i could without getting wound up about the stuff they say. I hope i got it all correct as well because i've never read the bible. I also used manxtrailzspaz's post in there to so i thought i'd give him a mention. I wonder what they'll say?

I also have these, the only thing they don't seem to like is if you're going to be wearing them around the back of your neck whilst riding.. the sweat from your neck does something to the rubber and they perish quite quickly afterwards. However i had a new set at christmas and theres no sign of them doing it yet.. my others were on there way out by this time last year. They do sound amazing though, the bass especially. It just makes the songs fell alive.

Or just stop bouncing and jump/fall off. Andy manged to destroy his sidewall on tuesday and it wasn't really anything impressive... he'd been doing hefty rolling gaps for the best part of the afternoon and must have just hit it exactly on the dent that was already there. He just seemed to get off the bike look at it and then before you could say "jack robinson" he was on the phone to tarty sorting out a new one. My rims had about 12 grinds on it.. However my grinding technique is very light and is about 1/4 of the normal grind destruction. When it happens it happens, just ride it till it goes. EDIT: If you grind you're rim clockwise on both sides then they are both ground in opposite directions kind of so it'll give you a braking surface thats good for both forwards and backwards hold.

Cheers, i like her too . Only because yours snapped. you should hate your sketchyness and heavy landings instead .

Hilary duff for sure! Plus trials pimp was right with kate beckinsale in underworld, especially with the crazy blue eyes! [attachmentid=4169] [attachmentid=4170] Holly valance is also a favourite, seen her up close playing live once in leicester... my god she's fit.

Cassie: Dixie... oh dear god. Winner!!!

He's right. GT85 should also work as it works a treat on getting the sticky goo left on after stickers/carbon proptector patches and it doesn't damge the frame either.

They do flex but it means it just soaks up the impact from drops so its easy to go bigger. If one tears you can stictch another one on top, none of this drill it and weld it nonsense. Seriously though, was there any need for it?

Yeah i'll be there. I was too drunken up and miles away from my bike and house last week so unfortunately i didn't make it. I'll try harder this time, i promise. Me and ben on the phone. "oi chris you coming birmingham." "ermm not lookin too good mate no, where are you?" "we're on the train now, where are you. oi get the next train up with blake" "well i'm on the floor at the minute, i got drunk last night and it looks like i ended up stopping at my cousins house, at least it looks like his lounge... i'm still a bit wasted now." "so can u not make it? "doesn't look good, sorry mate" Ha ha. First thing in the morning, i didn't know where i was or what i was doing. So yeah, more of an effort this week.

I had them on a sock bike. They were shit. Read the pad reviews section because there's reviews of them in there.

You are aware that your downtube/bashplate bolt looks like its snapped aren't you?

TB_Levelboss, have you tried taking the wheel out and putting it back in again? My louise goes all squidgy like you described when my wheel isn't in the right place, i take it out whack it back in and it firms up again. Until the air bubbles seep through my system and make it feel horrible. Nafan, i don't have a clue... new brake maybe?

My sister has taken a bit of a liking to my jump bike and can now successfully manual off curbs and lift the front wheel up to roll up them. I'm gonna teach her bunnyhops soon and try and get her into downhill :$ .

Something hydraulic, and something thats going to be strong. Along the lines of a hayes or a hope disc brake. It all depends really on how much you are willing to spend and how much of the 'pimp factor' you want. The hayes is generally a cheaper brake but a good performer though doesn't have anything special in the looks department. The hope brakes on the other hand are generally more expensive but offer reliable stopping power and have a certain hint of bling to them with customisable levers and cylinder caps etc. They are also available in 2, 4 and 6 pot (the number of pots is the number of cylinders that apply the force to the brake pads, the more pots the more power). This is what i'm running on my jump bike and it was a bargain second hand at £30, as you can tell from the reviews its a great brake thats easy to set up and offers loads of power. Link to hayes brake This is the sort of thing you're looking to go for if your after a hope brake as the hope mini's have some issues with performance and reliablility.. however these have a much higher price link to hope. Either way you're going to have to ebay it up to get one under £50 unless you can find a second hand one locally or on a dirt biking forum. As to the chainrings just get something solid and reliable like a dmr sturn ring or a solid middleburn one . My dirt bike was built up out of spare and second hand parts and is a right demon to ride. I didn't want to go for the pimp factor but just something subtle and that works.

ha ha, oh dear lord. And i before i saw that they seemed to know what they were doing. Nobodies perfect heh.

ha ha, no worries dude

And don't worry about getting more explanations or even finding the site again i've done it for you earlier in the thread.

Well its kind of been said if you jumble together seperate posts. The hs33 has a larger master cylinder (the piston in the lever) so it can transmit more fluid through the brake and effectively giving as far as i remember magura saying 33% more power than a hs11. The lever blade is also made of aluminium and has better adjustment via the tpa so will be better than ahs11 lever in pretty much every way. The slave cylinder's (near the brake pads) are identical so can be used with a hs33 lever to create a complete hs33 brake. It should be cheaper for you to upgrade just the lever than you upgrading the entire brake anyway.

I'm not meaning to start an argument or anything like that so don't take this the wrong way but his post wasn't that bad at all. I would say something like that to someone in real life if someone was being harsh about not caring what someone had written, keni gave him some advice and was rewarded with "keni like i care". I think mat was trying to point out that keni was trying to help and there was no need for it, but i think he might have mistakenly misunderstood what ride or die said. I think ride or die might have meant he didn't care about no bumping in 24 hours but that could just be my amazing ability to see the best in everyone. Back on track though, you will need the same number of spoke holes on both the rim and the hub but i think that speaks for itself really. Then you need to lace them up in the correct way and you can either try building it up and possibly finding that it doesn't all go together well or you could use the funky spoke calculator thing (i think its on the tartybikes site somewhere) that takes into account the hub diameter and flange size, rim depth and a load of other things and gives you the correct spoke length. I wouldn't have thought that it would be too far out so you could give it a go and maybe see if it works but with them being completely different rims i couldn't say for certain.

So when you brake usually you take your hand off the bar? or do you mean that you don't cover your other brake like most people do. I know i always ride with one finger on each lever blade no matter what i'm doing. My friend jay has his brakes the opposite way round and he seems quite happy with it. He's been used to his rear brake on the right ever since he was bmxing so he feels more comfortable with it, though everyone who manuals on his bike always flips because he forgets to tell them they're the wrong way round. he has tried to switch and found it extremely hard so you might find it the same to switch it the other way round. At the end of the day its your bike and if you ride with your brakes set up unnaturally for you then your riding will suffer. Go with what feels best.

I know you said a cable disc brake but i would strongly suggest you think about a hydrolic one. The hayes range are great and you should be able to pick up a complete brake for around £45 (ebay it up). I would recommend either the hfx-9 or hfx-mag if you find one on there because of the shear power and performance you get with them. I am running one of the older hfx-9's on my jump bike and its great.. nice big 8" rotor and it has to be one of the strongest discs i've ever used. Mine was second hand as well and set me back a whopping £30. The reason behind me advising the hydrolic is because it's generally a fit and forget job with them as apposed to cable brakes where the cable often needs adjusting and they have more moving parts on them so are more prone to either cloging up with mud and jamming or being damaged due to bailing, i know this can happen with any brake but i've seen more broken cable discs due to bailing on jumps than hydraulic ones. The recommendation of the avid bb7 is not advised, these brakes are said to have issues with brake fade as they get warm which isn't something that really concerns trials as its usually on or off with some slight modulation when appropriate. With dirt/downhill the brake is used to gradually slow and to help with cornering and with this it heats up a lot more so you would more than likely find the power of your brake fading as you ripped up the dirt. I would recommend either keeping an eye on either this one Link or this one Link.

I'm fairly sure i can sum it up with one sentence: The stealth fighter of trials bikes! Looks absolutely big pimping! I would just change the front rim and with that number of spokes i would think the hub would need swapping as well, but something that looks similar to the rear rim with a black sidewall would just complete the bike.

I already have, he copy and pasted them from the trials online site which can be found by clicking the link or by typing in something along the lines of trials biking moves on google. You can find all the other explanations on the trials online site. And to Hezz0l, he copied and pasted it from another site, he didn't even write it himself, then to top it off whinged about it taking him soooo long to find when it was one of the top results for every search i tried. Then he said he's glad his tips helped... They're not even his tips! And i'm pretty sure that MSM is completely right by saying that copying the guides without posting a link to the authors site or stating the author in any way is against the copyrights act but i don't know whether the other person has to get the original material copyrighted first .