Krisboats

I'm afraid thats completely wrong... and you've spelt skeleton wrong as well. (Also exactly, and aluminium and areas. Use the spell checker) An Exoskeleton (yes it is all one word) " in contrast to an endoskeleton, is an external anatomical feature that supports and protects an animal's body. All arthropods (such as insects, spiders and crustaceans) and many other invertebrate animals (such as shelled mollusks) have exoskeletons. Lobsters, for example, have tough outer shell systems which provide rigidity and shape to their bodies." Taken from here link. What they really are is an aluminium inner section with a carbon fibre exoskeleton, Loads of people run them as well dude so you should be absolutely fine, carbon bars should easily last you a year and should be replaced between 1 and a half years and 2 years of use... or should you manage to put an averagely deep scratch into them they will also need replacing as carbon is significantly weakened once scratched.

My maxxis minion dual ply 2.35 is a doddle to get off a ronnie rim, i use plastic tyre levers for it that came in a halfords puncture repair kit.

I did understand the majority of that mate so there's no point copying and pasting a load of stuff off a shop and saying oooh understand that then. Firstly you said the chip was a pentium d 830, now its a 950 make your mind up! The pentium d 830's mulitplier is locked at x 15 so to get a x17 multiplier i'm presuming that you aren't using a pentium d 830 @ 6ghz. Well you've shot yourself in the foot with the whole single clock speed sentence there mate. If you've overclocked your cpu to 6 ghz thats its single clock speed, not 6ghz x2 = 12ghz. I was talking about the fastest standard computer, like your average pc case just modded to shit not some government crap which is almost gauranteed to be several years in advance of anything the public could purchase. Well according to the custom pc magazine last month the third fastest pentium chip in the world is running at 6468.92mhz so thats what i was basing this on, the fact that if 6.4ghz is third fastest and 5.9ghz is 11th fastest then you're well up there in the league tables aren't you. But... i still see no picture so i still don't beleive you. And i'm not happy with a cpu-z picture you can copy and paste that from anywhere on the net. "Ooh look here's my pc score" [attachmentid=3700] Yeah right. Bit more on topic i have a pretty decent picture that i did last night specially for you that i'll try and get up at some point this afternoon.

You can't get it running at 6ghz and then because there's two cores just presume its really at 12ghz... it doesn't work like that. All you have is two cores running at 6ghz. I also highly doubt you've managed to get it running at 6 Ghz... i want some sort of print screen type proof before i beleive this as some of the fastest systems in the world are only just managing to get 6Ghz stablized. EDIT: Run this bad boy and post up your print screen of it, Firsty, click This Link It must be run in Internet Explorer as this site doesn't support FireFox. If you don't post an image up i'll take it to mean that your overclock of 6ghz was a complete and utter lie.

I need time to do it though really, i have loads of coursework and stuff to do at the minute. And besides, there is next to nothing of the original template left... i hacked out the crap i didn't like, changed certain aspects of it and added new parts as well. Anyway it's doing the job.

Thats £15 for your axle then, they're not very strong at all though so i'd recommend you putting the money towards a new hub. These hubs don't really work on a snapped axle like some others can because i found the rim kept hitting the pads everytime i pedalled, but you might be able to temporarily If a new hub is out of the question then what you need to do with your axle is go to the dmr site and have a look for a dmr retailer near you, they will replace the axle for you so all you have to do is take it in to them and they'll do all the hard work for you.

What hub is it? My old dmr one was the same... the sure for that was to spray wd-40 or gt85 where the freehub joins the edge of the hub shell it allowed it to spin more freely and subsequently stopped the whole chain going slack problem... however, this only ever happened when i had a new freehub fitted to it so if it is an old hub it would most likely be that a part has broken inside it maybe a bearing or pawl spring or maybe even a piece of grit has gotten inside. If you let us know what hub it is it would be likely that someone will know how to fix it.

Conner i told you this was a bad idea before christmas when you last asked.

Oooh female stock riders!! Angelina: Emma: Site looks good too, i'm liking the layout and theme... though my only gripe is where it says TQ in the nav menu, the font for the T is very stylized and i keep thinking it looks more like an I. Good job though

Okay well I sorted the riding pictures out so there's actually soem decent ones on there, the older ones kind of died in quality after i resized them all but they're now fast loading .jpg's and there are some newer better pictures on there to keep it looking up to date.

In all the time i've ever ground a rim i've never taken the tyre off to do it and the worst thing i've ever done was slightly catch the tyre with the grinder so there was a little scuff mark on the outside of it. Gyroscopic effect, oooh thats like the wind lightly blowing on it... seriously, turn it on and hold it in one hand... it doesn't do a thing. Just exercise average caution with the grinder if you're doing it one handed obviously dont grind near your other hand and dont look up at something else and carry on grinding whilst not paying attention. It's only wimps who can't grind one handed. Grinding should be done however the grindee feels best about it, younger users should be accompanied by or get an adult to do it for them. I in no way accept any repsonsibility for retards grinding their own arms to shit and anyone that follows my advice willingly does so at their own risk.

They're evo II mounts, they're f**king symetrical it won't matter which way round they are!!! Whack some old style evo mounts on the back and you should be able to set the rear brake up fine.

So do you want an actual picture of something evil that we've drawn in full detail like this: Or something more already in a pc case image format... i.e. like mostly line drawing with slight tonal values and no colour like so: [attachmentid=3669] But obviously better drawn and with much more defined lines... this was a very quick photoshop jobby to show what i meant. or maybe even something with hardly any tone at all like this: It could be like a kind of competition, you might also want to have a word with i think its endohopper he's very good at drawing.

Well andy i'm finally getting my arse into gear with the whole driving thing and this has given me a reason for wanting to drive now. If i'm sorted in time i'd most definately be up for doing it, i'll speak to you on msn about it though.

This is an easy question to answer Yes they do.

Yeah it was good, enjoyed it at the multi level wall things in the uni. The rain was fun ben yuo should've ridden to the train station in it we got soaked and i was wearing a t-shirt so my arms got battered by hail stones. Out of 8 posts... well 9 now, you've made 5 ben i think you have too much spare time on your hands.

It won't work, disc brake levers have a resevoir in them which, i think, allows for fluid expansion when the disc gets hot. Now rim brakes don't get hot so won't need a resvoir and as such it will not work with a disc brake lever. When you pull a magura lever the lever pushes the piston which pushes the rest of the fluid through the lever.... now with a disc brake when you pull the lever some funky stuff happens inside it and then the pads move. Shit explanation but NO IT WON'T WORK. Sorry

If you've got stiff links try loosening them a little... stick 2 allen keys in the slots of your chain intended for chainring/sprocket teeth to go into and give it a little twist. This will widen the area that was compressed when the chain was re-attached using a tool. If not the shadow chains are hefty things and should be fine for you though many people whinge about them stretching but i wouldn't be bothered if i was you. You might want to consider something a little cheaper though like the KHE recommended above.

Right i'll answer because i know what i'm talking about. You're 180 disc and a louise fr should be plenty powerful, if not its most likely contaminated. Hope recommend decontaminatinbg a disc rotor by taking it off the hub and sticking it in the dishwasher... though if you get a sponge and put washing up liquid and hot water on it it does the same job. Decontaminating pads, well really if they're contaminated your pads should be replaced.... but seeing as they're expensive a lot of people don't like to do that so you can try decontaminating them first. Like with most things there's always people who are too wimpy to do anything to their bike incase they break it but you sound sensible so i'm sure you can manage to do this without any worries. Although no strict guide is given to removing contaminants the method i have found always works is to burn the pads... thats right hold them in a flame or put them in the oven, i freely admit that fire fascinates me so i go for the first option. Fire: Use pliers because the pads get hot and hold them by the little tabs, hold them in the flames for a couple of minutes don't worry it won't harm them. This should burn off most contaminants from the pads... people say that it won't but whether it does or doesn't they work better afterwards. Oven: Stick them in the oven like a pizza, on the top shelf at about 180 degrees for about 10 minutes. Next get a saucepan stick some water in, an inch or so deep will do the job fine pads are pretty flat remember. Stick the pads in and let it boil, it should take around 15 minutes or so and they'll be bouncing a little bit on the bottom of the pan making a funky noise... again this is fine. The basic idea behind boiling them is to use heat to ease the removal of contaminants and oil sits on top of water so if its on the pads it'll float to the top hopefully, though you will struggle to see any. Once boiled leave it to settle and pour the water out of the pan down the sink, tip the pads onto a clean tea towel (remember they'll be hot so don't pick them up) and give them a bit of a rub with the cloth this'll dry them off and remove any black rubbish from burning the pads and general use. Re-attach the rotor if you took it off and put the pads in then bed it in as normal... riding around so the disc gets hot and then pouring cold water onto it should do the job. Thats it then and you should have a nice working brake. On the subject of plazmatic pads they should only be used on solid disc rotors as the material is similar to magura hs33 pads, holes in the rotor will rip the pads to shreds. This also goes for grooves cut into the sides of the rotor. The entire braking surface needs to be uniform in diameter without holes for these pads. you might be better off to get a +20mm adapter and get a 203mm disc this will give you a shed load more bite and would be only marginally more expensive than getting these pads. hope it helps dude

It is that very exact one yes, ha ha look at bens face... legend. Although his bike has gotten a lot smaller since then.

I used to have this one, split it and put the same pin back in. I don't like split links anyway. Just make sure you have it put back in properly as you would with any other chain.

According to the documentary that was on bbc several weeks back it is not possible to catch bird flu from easting poultry, even if its infected. It is also not going to harm people to carry on taking kids down to the park to feed the ducks. Based on this i would not be worried at all, its mostly just media hype... i mean if they didn't say there was some nasty new risk involved with it or that something is going in the u.k. now then people wouldn't want to buy the papers to find out at how much of a risk they are at. Yes its deadly, but the only risk really is to people who work with and come into contact with birds for large parts of the day. I mean the biggest news thing on the radio today was that 40 birds somewhere up north were being "tested" for it... f**k me they've had they're blood taken, all of england must be about to catch a "supervirus" and we're all going to die. Just excercise a bit of caution, if you see a shit load of birds who look like they've got some funky kind of hang over... failing that just wild birds, don't go over and start licking them. Have you ever tried to go over and touch (not in that way pervert ) wild birds anyway? Don't the majority of them fly away?

No what you do is buy a cheap seatpost... obviously one that fits properly. Cut the top part off (the bit with the rail mounts) so you just have a cylinder. Drill a hole about an inch and a half down with say a 5 mm drill bit. Screw a bolt through the two holes you just drilled through the seat post and cut the ends of the bolt down so it's flush with the seat post sides. filing them smooth maybe be needed as well this way you'll have a nice[attachmentid=3619]

Look how my face looks too small and out of proportion with the rest of my body, oh shit you're balancing my head on you arm thats why. *swings arms around to try and get it back* With a look of pure evil mr iolo t-shirt man is secretly planning to stuff the head into the very small hole that the red shirt dude has made with his hand. Then he plans to stamp on the head/ hand combination crusing both fingers and jaw and missaligning all of red shirt dude's teeth... leaving nothing but a pool of blood left on the floor and red shirt dude going "ahhhh heeelll no!" That'll teach him for having a red lever blade whit lever body and pink brake cable all on the same bike in such an unmatching, un-coordinated way.

Really, well thats not what the echo site says.