AdamR28

Ahh, Clifton, nice area...

Good idea Skoze - yes, the receipt (which is proof of posting of a tracked / signed for item) will have the weight on there: http://deltastamps.com/img/fact/SD%20Receipt.jpg The amount of postage paid / type of delivery would also put the parcel in a certain weight band: http://postagelabelsuk.com/wp-content/gallery/horizon-labels-update-april-2013/labels2.jpg A GoPro Hero 4 in all it's packaging weighs 675g (just weighed one), if that helps. Got a link to the listing? Will see if there's anything else we can come up with between us I'm sure

Thing is, that's also true for any brake ever used on a trials bike.

Any car is suitable, literally anything, your mums Honda Jazz, your work van - anything - that's the beauty of this venue. Those contemplating 'upgrades', it really doesn't matter, so don't worry about rushing to get them fitted I'll give the guy a call this week.

Oh I see, my post was referring to buying a diaphragm which is why I got confused

That you should replace the diaphragm evey time you bleed the brake? (Which is bollocks)

No worries. Given the cost of shipping, it's probably worth having a look around a bit more locally first - someone should have one

NP. Sure, it's the 2006 model: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/disc_brake_spares/hope_mini_lever_diaphragm/c110p10151.html

Ok, all the above points to that it just needs a good bleed and a new diaphragm. The squelching will be fluid that's come out from under the reservoir cap and therefore 'farting' air through part HBSP102: http://www.roteccycles.co.uk/ekmps/shops/rotec/images/hope-mono-mini-master-cylinder-lever-lid-diaphragm-%5B2%5D-2107-p.jpg- it doesn't do this when it's dry. If the reservoir cap bolts have been too tight in the past it can deformed the diaphragm, and will never seal properly again, which is the likely cause of your leak.

We charge £20.83 per hour (weird price cos it's £25 with VAT) for labour, and do things on a job-by-job basis. We prefer not to do a 'full overhaul' on something if it doesn't need it, but happy to do so if you wish. We prefer to start with a free of charge inspection and quote for the job from there. Is there a leak anywhere? If so, where from exactly and when does it leak exactly?

Not good for me, plus there will events on at that time and people will be booking it privately for testing. March would be 'better' than April in terms of the venue (and better for me).

So is anyone else still in? Or can suggest alternative dates? Maybe we need a poll for preferred week?

Same - but 'proper' events start in March... as does testing.

f**ked my shoulder riding MTB the other night - will see how it's healing up then try to guesstimate a date from there. That sort of region sounds about right though Paul

Same... don't 'get' watches... That does suck though

M8 barbed fittings don't seem to be available separately, but I'm sure we have a few somewhere that have come off full brakes (they are fitted to all the new brakes). They seal on the internal taper where the olive would normally do so.

Hope this doesn't come out the wrong way, bui I'd send it to someone who is familiar with these brakes and get them to do a full inspection and service. I've seen 20 year old Hope brakes working perfectly, they just need the right maintenance.

I was in the van Still goes sideways though...

A few mm up here last night, complete carnage on the roads this morning due to retards - which meant, unfortunately, I just had to take the ungritted back roads to work...

That's what I would do / have done in the past, at least you'll have all 4 dead at the same time then Should you choose to do any handling mods in future you will then be in a better position to judge their effectiveness too (with 4 tyres all the same). Hmm, haven't ever considered that, that sucks! Won't any BMW tyres fit / be close?

I'm a fan of all 4 tyres being the same (no matter if they are crap or good), at least handling is then balanced / matched and you can swap wheels around or just buy one tyre if you need, but everyone is different!

What's on the back?

Spacer between the BB and the frame on the drive side, yep. Do not put spacers on the BB axle, it's tapered so by doing this you end up with loose cranks. Edit: This is assuming it's a 'normal' BB, where the main unit is one piece with the right hand cup. This will also mean the LH cup will likely disappear inside the frame a few mm, but that's fine.

Ah, yes, I can see that now, how odd!