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forteh

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Everything posted by forteh

  1. The smallest common size for chainrings is 20t, you physically cant make a smaller chainring without using a different bolt pattern which is what steve@heatsink does with his 18t middleburn bashguards. I think you can get 20t in 5bolt pattern, you might be able to find a 20t in 4 bolt if you search around. For a short term fix you could fit a full mountainbike cassette which will give you more options to play around with gearing and see which suits you best before making the plunge to singlespeed. Ive got an old xt cassette that you can have for postage costs, would need to check that I have all the smaller rings to space it all out though. Pretty sure the teeth are all ok apart from one or two of the bigger rings have got bent teeth from when I used to use it for trials on 32/28 gearing about 9-10 years ago, the 16-20 tooth range should be fine edit: damn monkeys typing with their feet aswell, shouldnt be allowed
  2. Ah mines not quite so unabused now, but I could get it machined so that it was
  3. Middleburns use their own specific bashguard design that is splined onto the cranks, the only other option is for the heatsink cloud9 (which I can also very highly recommend ). IMHO middleburns are THE best cranks to have more pricey than all the others but you get lifetime warranty and theyre very strong whilst still pretty lightweight. I have a spare middleburn bashring with both 20 and 22 chainrings you can have should you choose to pick up a set
  4. Best to not tighten it that much, it will brinell the races and the bearing will die very quickly Tighten the top cap a bit at a time and check the bearings each time. To check for tight bearings hold the front wheel off the floor using the frame, the bars should fall easily to either side; if they dont then headset is too tight. To check for loose bearings hold the front wheel off the floor holding the front axle/bottom of forks and shake the bike alittle; if you feel any clunking then the headset is too loose. If you find the headset is loose in one direction but tight when the front wheel is turned through 90 degrees then you probably have a bent steerer tube (more likely on steel steererd forks than aluminium).
  5. Exactly the same as an RB lever Makes the brake spongier because the mechanical advantage is much higher but you get more holding power
  6. Proper pegs are bolt through and are supported by the dropout, the wheelnut only holds it on. The screw on pegs will be fine (if you have enough thread to fit both wheelnut and peg then that would be preferable) and as I said you shouldnt bend your axle aslong as you dont try to stall on them Will still need to sort the bearings, spacers and sleeves out though
  7. Not sure which the 'fat pegs' are but my demolition park pegs arent much more than 35mm dia and just over 100mm long, theres no way on earth they could be properly fitted to any trials forks Ive seen. The micropegs posted in your other thread could be used instead of wheelnuts and realisitcally is your only option on a trials fork. For hang fives and the like you need the weight to be on the peg not the bars, small threaded axle extenders shouldnt bend the axle/dropout from just standing on them, start doing harsh pegstalls on them and they will die very very quickly As for converting the axle: - If its a 3/8" standard axle in the new hub then it should just be a case of getting a 3/8" full threaded axle (normally for cup & cone bearing hubs) and fitting cone nuts outside the bearings. You will need to fit a spacer tube inbetween the sealed races to stop the bearings collapsing under too much preload, needs to be a sliding fit over the axle and only a couple of mm thick at most, the ends need to be square - a local engineering shop/college may be able to knock something up for you If the bore of the new bearings is bigger than 3/8" and theyre not a good fit on the axle then you will need some top hat spacer machined to suit in addition to the centre spacer tube. Again just fit cone nuts either side and it should be good to fit into the forks edit: just noticed you have onza flyguys, Ive got a set at home and imho theres no way you could fit a normal bolt through peg on there, a screw on one would be ok though as it basically replaces the wheelnut.
  8. You wont fit normal pegs onto a trials frame or forks. Someone posted a link to some micro pegs on here in the last week, basically they replace the wheel nuts; they should be ok for just standing on. Could also try setting the skewer so it sticks out sideways, well known method of making a 'peg' with a QR Serves you right for buying wank hubs In all honesty the size of the axle isnt so important, the stiffness of the dropouts is
  9. Indeed, pegs need a very solid large dropout area to properly mount, funnily enough 99% of trials bikes dont have large flat plate dropouts Even with a decent dropout its still pretty easy to bend a 10mm axle.
  10. Im guessing its the slightly inane questions, lack of capitalisation and occasional spelling mistakes
  11. By not asking how to get validated
  12. Should be 9/16" x 20 tpi right hand thread, not sure what the thread form is though edit1: on 2nd thoughts its more than likely coarse pitch BSC (British Standard Cycle thread), I know unsealed hubs with a threaded axle use 3/8" x 26tpi BSC or 9/16" x 26tpi BSC edit2: yup 9/16" x 20tpi BSC is pedal threads http://homepages.tesco.net/~A10bsa/ceibot.htm
  13. Probably the pinch bolt, try slackening it off a touch, also put a drop of oil on the brass bush and pivot Clean the rotor with surgical spirit/cellulose thinners to make sure its thoroughly degreased (try not to touch the braking surface with your fingers either). Take the pads out and cook them over a gas ring, rebed the brake and see if that helps, if not then get a new set of pads.
  14. Assuming you mean the barbed fittings, you need the clamp blocks (or some wood with a groove filed in the same size as the hose), alittle lube oil or washing up liquid work fine, a vice and a small hammer. Cut the tube completely straight with a sharp stanley knife or similar. Hold the tube in the vice using the clamps, leave about 5-10mm of tube sticking out the of the clamps. Put a drop of lube on the top of the tube, a tiny amount on the tip of the barb wont hurt either. Position the barb centrally in the end of the tube, make sure its perfectly straight and square. Gently tap it into the end of the tube with the hammer, be careful to keep it straight otherwise you may split the tube. If you split the tube or muller the end, simply cut the bit of tube back and try again. With any luck the barb will just slip into the tube Repeat for the other end. You have to cut the barb out of the tube, again a sharp stanley knife and watch them fingers!!!
  15. In my experience you will get blisters on any grips, theres only 1 thing to do and thats grow some good old hardened callouses and look after them Rubbing surgical spirit where blisters form hardens up the skin over time (makes you smell a bit funny though ) or just riding with gloves on will do the same. Once you have callouses formed just keep them smooth (I use a pumice stone to smooth mine if they start to crack). If you smooth them too thin then you will get a blister forming underneath the callous which defeats the object, if you leave them too thick they will eventually tear off and be painfull; moisturising also helps. Ideally you need a flexible pad of tough/thick skin where it rubs Personally I prefer ODI roughnecks as theyre thin, grippy and last forever, better with gloves though when new. If you prefer to ride without gloves then ODI longnecks are supremely comfortable. I tried foam grips and hated them, cut them off and threw them away lol, never seen the point in lock-on grips - just put rubber grips on with alittle petrol and they never move
  16. You can put a harsh grind on ANY rim, it might not last long (because the aluminium is a softer grade) but that is the same with any grind on a soft rim. The grind on my rear tryall goes dull pretty quickly, especially with hard pads - currently testing now with heatsink reds. I ran some rimjam greens on a fresh medium grind and they were half worn in 4 hours, I just put it down to bad compound as it had happened in isolated cases - never got the replacement set of pads to try as promised by chris - no matter though, its not like theyre expensive Oh and I bought them from tarty, under tartys recommendation for pads on a grind
  17. Its quite possible he hasnt got a clue about rims, for example I have a tryall rear and mavic xc717 - I think theyre both good rims but I dont know any different. If I were to need a new pair of rims I wouldnt have a clue as to what is recommended and generally considered 'the best' Without any additional information (selection criteria) it was a very stupid question though
  18. forteh

    Threads

    The crank threads will fail first, although if its crossthreaded the threads on the crank are already f**ked You could cut the freewheel off the cranks if its not budging. Take the lock ring and gubbins out of it, hold the crank arm in a vice, and grind a groove across the width of the freewheel inner - you dont want to go through the steel inner as that will really knacker the threads. When theres 2-3mm of steel left get a cold chisel and tap into the groove, with any luck the inner should crack and come free of the threads alittle I seem to remember something about deng cranks not being machined true and the freewheel wobbling about as the cranks turned, could it be that?
  19. forteh

    Profile Hubs

    A decent quality large adjustable will do the trick, if not the careful application of a vice
  20. forteh

    Profile Hubs

    Got a profile on my bmx and Im pretty sure you just undo the lockring with a big spanner & chainwhip. The sprockets are splined onto the cassette body (well it wouldnt be a cassette hub otherwise duh!). Pity you dont want to try a 16t as I have a spare one here
  21. You can repair the tpa at home, search the wiki, theres an article in there on it
  22. Have you read my post? Loctite is worthless unless you prepare it properly
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