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Dzien dobra Inur Sorry I had to, polish lodger Im not too familiar with the suitablilty for forging of 7075 as opposed 6061 but 7075 is a far higher grade of material and in its annealed state appears to be stronger than heat treated 6061. In T6 condition 7075 is almost 40% stronger in shear than 6061 T6 Some 6061 info Some 7075 info Im betting that the 7075 echo cranks are machined from plain billet, if they were forged and then machined they would be far superior A bit more research - middleburns are forged from 7075 and then heat treated to T6 before machining, probably explains why you dont get as many failing as deng cranks; the forging makes it a much stronger component, also explains some of the price difference too. edit: hubs are very easy to forge, rims are extruded and frames are fabrications, nearly everything else on a bike can be forged. Forging can be fully automated, aslong as you have material going into one side it will produce forgings falling out the other side

Yeah thats the sensible solution in reality Afterall you can just get a new rear sprocket for a few quid if you fancy a change.

I know a man that can manually machine down to tenth of a thou (thats 0.00254 mm in modern money) Cant do it with the speed of a cnc machine though I would guess that all of the deng products are machined from plain billets (which have been forged) but how many of his products are actually forged into shape in order to give the correct grain structure that gives forgings their strength? Are the machined deng cranks (gu/zoo/czar/adamant/echo) machined from a crank shaped forging (presumably taken from the forged echo cranks?) or are they machined from plain square billet? Material specs quoted on tarty would seem to indicate that theyre not the same.

Ok so Ive got an 8spd xt cassette not xtr :$ The rings are 11/13/15/17/20/22/23/26/30, the 30t one has a slight kink in it but you wont be using that one anyways. The 17t and upwards are mounted on the alloy carrier, the carrier body where it fits onto the freehub is 25mm wide, the rest of the space can be made up using other chainrings and/or spacers Yours if you want it, comes with all of the rings and the correct lockring - not quite got the gear ratios you were after though

Its not just limited to trials or even NMC, go have a look through CRC and see how often the phrases cnc and strong come up in the same sentence Its like the 05 echo cnc rims, how do you think any drilled/punched rims are made, blimey it was a cnc machine Yes it can look pretty (although imho most of the machining on dengs frames is pretty rough) and can create a light, stronger component if its designed correctly to minimise stress raisers.

I graduated 7 years ago, besides which why should they have an opinion on why the bicycle industry has a cnc fetish

I know what cnc means, I have a degree in mechanical engineering I meant why is the industry fasinated with the process and why do they claim it makes things stronger?

Ill check the number of teeth on the xtr cassette I have and post back here, it should fit without a problem, you might just need to fiddle about with spacers (Ive got some spare you can have). As I said you can have it for postage costs which shouldnt be more than 5 GBP

What is the fascination within the bicycle industry (particularly in trials) with the notion that because something has been made using a cnc machine that it is automatically stronger and a better product? Forging a component makes it far stronger, I just dont get this who cnc thing Certainly the use of a cnc machining makes mass produced repeatabilty cheap and practical and has its uses particularly with deep pocketing and the like but it doesnt means its actually any good. Sorry personal rant over, discuss....

You would need to buy some square taper front free wheel cranks, an 18t screw-on chainwheel, an 18t bashguard and possibly a longer bottom bracket to make sure the chainwheel clears the frame.

I would keep the cranks, bash and ring that you have now and sort out the rear end as its easier to change the ratios that way. The xt cassette has the 1st 5/6 rings mounted on an aluminium carrier that slips onto the cassette, you may not need the extra spacers to tighten it up. If you measure the width of your current cassette Ill compare it to my spare one to see how well they match Thinking about it, it might be an xtr cassette, either way it would cost you about 5 quid postage to greece

The smallest common size for chainrings is 20t, you physically cant make a smaller chainring without using a different bolt pattern which is what steve@heatsink does with his 18t middleburn bashguards. I think you can get 20t in 5bolt pattern, you might be able to find a 20t in 4 bolt if you search around. For a short term fix you could fit a full mountainbike cassette which will give you more options to play around with gearing and see which suits you best before making the plunge to singlespeed. Ive got an old xt cassette that you can have for postage costs, would need to check that I have all the smaller rings to space it all out though. Pretty sure the teeth are all ok apart from one or two of the bigger rings have got bent teeth from when I used to use it for trials on 32/28 gearing about 9-10 years ago, the 16-20 tooth range should be fine edit: damn monkeys typing with their feet aswell, shouldnt be allowed

Ah mines not quite so unabused now, but I could get it machined so that it was

Middleburns use their own specific bashguard design that is splined onto the cranks, the only other option is for the heatsink cloud9 (which I can also very highly recommend ). IMHO middleburns are THE best cranks to have more pricey than all the others but you get lifetime warranty and theyre very strong whilst still pretty lightweight. I have a spare middleburn bashring with both 20 and 22 chainrings you can have should you choose to pick up a set

Best to not tighten it that much, it will brinell the races and the bearing will die very quickly Tighten the top cap a bit at a time and check the bearings each time. To check for tight bearings hold the front wheel off the floor using the frame, the bars should fall easily to either side; if they dont then headset is too tight. To check for loose bearings hold the front wheel off the floor holding the front axle/bottom of forks and shake the bike alittle; if you feel any clunking then the headset is too loose. If you find the headset is loose in one direction but tight when the front wheel is turned through 90 degrees then you probably have a bent steerer tube (more likely on steel steererd forks than aluminium).

Exactly the same as an RB lever Makes the brake spongier because the mechanical advantage is much higher but you get more holding power

Not on onza fly guys you cant

Proper pegs are bolt through and are supported by the dropout, the wheelnut only holds it on. The screw on pegs will be fine (if you have enough thread to fit both wheelnut and peg then that would be preferable) and as I said you shouldnt bend your axle aslong as you dont try to stall on them Will still need to sort the bearings, spacers and sleeves out though

Not sure which the 'fat pegs' are but my demolition park pegs arent much more than 35mm dia and just over 100mm long, theres no way on earth they could be properly fitted to any trials forks Ive seen. The micropegs posted in your other thread could be used instead of wheelnuts and realisitcally is your only option on a trials fork. For hang fives and the like you need the weight to be on the peg not the bars, small threaded axle extenders shouldnt bend the axle/dropout from just standing on them, start doing harsh pegstalls on them and they will die very very quickly As for converting the axle: - If its a 3/8" standard axle in the new hub then it should just be a case of getting a 3/8" full threaded axle (normally for cup & cone bearing hubs) and fitting cone nuts outside the bearings. You will need to fit a spacer tube inbetween the sealed races to stop the bearings collapsing under too much preload, needs to be a sliding fit over the axle and only a couple of mm thick at most, the ends need to be square - a local engineering shop/college may be able to knock something up for you If the bore of the new bearings is bigger than 3/8" and theyre not a good fit on the axle then you will need some top hat spacer machined to suit in addition to the centre spacer tube. Again just fit cone nuts either side and it should be good to fit into the forks edit: just noticed you have onza flyguys, Ive got a set at home and imho theres no way you could fit a normal bolt through peg on there, a screw on one would be ok though as it basically replaces the wheelnut.

You wont fit normal pegs onto a trials frame or forks. Someone posted a link to some micro pegs on here in the last week, basically they replace the wheel nuts; they should be ok for just standing on. Could also try setting the skewer so it sticks out sideways, well known method of making a 'peg' with a QR Serves you right for buying wank hubs In all honesty the size of the axle isnt so important, the stiffness of the dropouts is

LMAO

Indeed, pegs need a very solid large dropout area to properly mount, funnily enough 99% of trials bikes dont have large flat plate dropouts Even with a decent dropout its still pretty easy to bend a 10mm axle.

Im guessing its the slightly inane questions, lack of capitalisation and occasional spelling mistakes

By not asking how to get validated

Should be 9/16" x 20 tpi right hand thread, not sure what the thread form is though edit1: on 2nd thoughts its more than likely coarse pitch BSC (British Standard Cycle thread), I know unsealed hubs with a threaded axle use 3/8" x 26tpi BSC or 9/16" x 26tpi BSC edit2: yup 9/16" x 20tpi BSC is pedal threads http://homepages.tesco.net/~A10bsa/ceibot.htm