forteh

I know that I meant you dont cover the front brake when youre not using it?

So when your front brake isnt on youre not covering the lever? Ive only ever held onto my bars with 3 fingers and a thumb Will try it later on tonight

Having watched various videos posted on here Ive noticed more and more that people leave their front brake once on the back wheel and leave it spinning. Is this just personal preference or are there any benefits to be gained from it? Gyroscopic balancing perhaps? Personally I keep the wheel locked, maybe Ill try releasing it and see what happens. Anyone got any thoughts on it?

Think youll find that the onza bars are the standard 25.4mm (1") diameter, AFAIK its only pazzaz/brisa that uses 28.575 (1 1/8") bars. If your current bars are oversized 31.8 (1 1/4") then you will need some oversize flat bars. I have some 'normal' sized 25.4mm onza flat bars that came from a T-rex spare, no selling or buying in NMC though

Blood blisters as in pinch blisters or do you just mean normal blisters? If you mean normal blisters then you just need to toughen up your fingers If its pinch blisters then you need to look at your lever setup so that it doesnt pinch the skin. Personally I ride with gloves because it saves your palms from gravel if you bin it (nowt worse than gripping bars tight with gravel in your palms ) and they help me grip the bars with sweaty hands. Gloves dont stop callouses from forming and they dont stop blisters until you get callouses (or the callouses get too thick and form blisters underneath them). Ive never suffered from blisters on any of my brake fingers though.

Thats been cracked for ages

99% of stock bikes look nothing like a "normal" bike

Ive got an old fsa orbit extreme (at least 8 years old now I think) and its absolutely spot on, pretty low stack height and still smooth Ive used it for all sorts from xc/downhill/trials/jump and its still going strong. I dont think theyre made anymore but this is the closest Ive found. This might also be worth looking at, pretty cheap aswell

Im left foot forward and sidehop to the left aswell, can sidehop to the right but not as high. I dont think it really makes a huge difference apart from you maybe cant get quite as close to the wall like you can when wheelswapping

Im using heatsink cnc reds on a light (I think) grind, its not particularly sharp though and going a bit dull because of the tryall cheese aluminium Bite and hold are good, with a proper grind (I held the grinder at the wrong angle ) the bite would be better. Tested in the rain this evening and they seemed to hold aswell, not quite such positive bite though. Have a trawl through the pad reviews thread and make your won mind up

You couldnt be further from the truth Typically on refurb jobs youre designing equipment to fit a 30-70 year old concrete tank, alot are in imperial measurements and nearly every one is different. The concept and design is usually the same but each one is different. That tank from seafield is one of the largest rotating half bridge scrapers in europe, 55m diameter tank and almost 4 meters deep, tis a lot of shit I was working on it for 18 months and Im pretty proud to say that it worked very well and thames water are very happy with it. It sucks sludge from the bottom of the tank and sends it off to the sludge processing plant elsewhere on the site - capable of 72litres per second when cranked up

In this instance only cosmosexpress, we have very little need for a dedicated fea package at work (its all heavy engineering and typically based on emperical designs + theyre too tight to pay for it ) but its usefull for checking simple brackets and fabrications The joys of having an engineering suite available to mess about for hobbies

On a side note I had a quick play on solidworks last night and have one V brake arm designed, need to run it through FEA some more and tweak the design, then do the bearings and pivot

I designed this Id show you the cad drawings but theres 330 meg of them and I really cant be arsed For anyone in edinburgh its the sewage works at seafield

Disk has nothing to do with the rim, aslong as you have a disk hub and tabs on your frame/forks then you can use a disk

Another no-vote for hope skewers, may well be ok in a rear vertical dropout but with a front disk it just cannot hold it. Ive got a stock deore skewer holding my king disgotech hub on without any problems I tried some of the bolt through 'security' things, the allen heads are made form a soft form of cheese though so good luck ever trying to tighten them up properly, they also need an odd bastardised size allen key (between 4 and 5mm). Any tensioner will do but best if you have a sprung one, in my experience the ones you just bolt up are less than useless

Erm, the same number of teeth as your 4th sprocket perhaps?

Highrollers are one of the favourite tyres By standard I presume you mean the maxxpro 60a compound? Stick with highrollers but get the 42a super tacky or 40a slow reezy and youll be sorted. If you want really sticky go for the tryall tyres but theyre expensive and wear out pretty quick, grips well though

Spokes too tight I reckon

I got my rear king discotech (like the classic but with the option of putting a disk adaptor on there) built onto a viz rim from ben travis for 160 quid

This is a hope hose? There are no olives, its a proper hydraulic connection, if youve split the hose then you need to get the end refitted. If your lbs hasnt repaired the hose then your local hope dealer should be able to do it or talk nicely to hope and they should do it it for you; give them a ring and check its possible to refit the ends (pretty sure it is). Have you tried repeatedly pumping the lever? If the pads arent moving then the bleed is still f**ked and the hose could well be leaking air into the system. If the pads are hitting the disk but its not working then your pads are likely contaminated with oil, when the hose split the oil more than likely tracked down it and ran straight into the pads - throughly degrease the disk and you will probably need new pads aswell if theyve been badly contaminated. Try burning the pads off over a gas ring and see if that helps, I would guess you need new pads though. Sounds as though youve part stripped the TPA or something similar, not sure how the new model TPA works though. Get a replacement metal TPA wheel from tarty and see if its better. Its always more advisable to reset the pads rather than use loads of TPA adjustment The steerer tube is likely to be made from a stiffer, more resilient material to resist bending, the legs are likely to be springier to aid with front wheel moves like hoks and taps, also to absorp some impacts. Theres no need to have a weld if there is sufficient material to support a decent interference fit. Pushfit + glue is more than strong enough (testimony to that is the fact that your forks broke somewhere else) and it avoids the problem with the welding HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) which puts large stress raisers into the material

Any mech will run like a tensioner, just shorten the chain more until it pulls the mech out straight

You know more than me on the metalugic side, we only really touched on the subject at uni and it was so long ago Ive forgotten most of it Forging forces the material into a specific shape, with good design this can form a better material grain flow in order to relieve any stress during use. Bit of info on forging and material grain flow However naturally you cant make any shape with a forging (unless you forge it multiple times but I suspect annealing would have to take place between operations thus making it far more expensive) so forging your billet to the approximate size and shape before machining gives a far better grain flow If you imagine a round rolled bar has all the grain flow in one direction, if you wanted to form a rivet out of that bar you could simply machine the shank out of the bar (much material waste) but the only material area holding the head onto the shank would be the same diameter of the shank. If you were to forge the head on (by twatting it with a large hammer basically) the material is plastically deformed and squashed into the head shape, the means that the grain flows longitudinally along the shank and out in a radial pattern at the point where the head and shank meet. This grain flow is continued all the way through the material and forms a far stronger piece. I could well be wrong about working 7075 and tempering, it was a bit of a summation by my part The material on the middleburns I got from tarty, you can tell that they are forged to shape from inspection (got 2 pairs here to look at) - for the cost of them I dont think you could machine them to look how they do, the shape just seems too organic. Obviously I could well be wrong but Id happily bet a tenner that theyre forged to size and shape

I would go with a tensioner that is sprung at the very least, theres no reason why you cant use your rear mech to act as a tensioner, all you need to do is adjust the hi and lo screws until the mesh is inline with the chain Its heavier than a dedicated tensioner but works better than an unsprung tensioner imho.