forteh

Almost 100 quid for the toolset, nice as they are, its a bit outside of the budget for most people Cheaper to send it to tarty for a service

Any decent tool & bearing shop should stock them, you must be able to find one in london RS have a trade counter in Bow that you should be able to pick one up from, a bit expensive though but you get a kit of 20 inserts so enough to to 5 frames M5 Helicoil kit

Pretty much, yup

How about a T-rex stem?

Shimano solid axle, UN54 is it these days? The isis spindle might be alittle stiffer but the crank interface is a poor design that doesnt facilitate repeated crank removal, the bearings are also much much shorter lived because theyre half the size. Im sticking square taper, mainly because I have 2 sets of RS7s in square and imho its a better system edit: Think the solid axle is UN53 - depends on how heavy you are, if youre a smooth/lighter rider go for the UN54 with the hollow axle

Whenever Ive used a mech for tensioning Ive always left the spring in, locked it off with the screws and zip-tied the parallelogram section tight to the underside of the chainstays and just used the arm to do the tensioning - usually shorten the chain as much as possible so that the jockey wheels are almost inline (inside the chainstay) and the tension increases. It doesnt bang or clatter, gives good tension and is pretty solid - heavier than having a proper tensioner though

Depending on the moment ratios but yes it will make a difference For example: - 105mm arm with the pad 25mm from the pivot (bottom of slots) will give 4.2:1 mechanical advantage on the force applied to the rim. 105mm arm with the pad 35mm from the pivot (top of the slots) will give 3:1 mechanical advantage on the force applied to the rim. Thats almost 30% more mechanical advantage - the dimensions are guessed but the same principles are applied. If you can manufacture some v-daptors which will increase your mechanical advantage by moving the pads closer to the pivot then it will help, although it will introduce more flex so a booster will probably be in order.

For rubber grips use petrol, almost instant drying time, sticks perfectly and smells nice Not sure if its such a good idea for foam grips though

Sounds like a cracked ball, if its a creaking noise its more likely to be loose cranks or BB but in my experience a cracking noise is dead balls. Take the BB out and turn it by hand whilst holding the shell, you should be able to feel a notch or roughness when it makes the noise

If its square taper then youre about stuffed as youve probably stretched the square by overtightening it, if its isis then its just the crap design of the isis spline Loctite wont glue a rocking spline together, it will stop a tight spline or a bolt from coming loose though That is assuming you used the loctite properly.

Its pretty easy, undo the wheel and it falls out the dropout putting enough slack in the chain to get it off the sprocket/roller. Putting it in a bit trickier because you need to put the wheel in with the chain off the front sprocket, then wind it on whilst pulling the tensioner out by hand. All in its still easier than putting a wheel in with a mech Eventually if the pivot fails I shall probably re-engineer it properly to incorporate a radial spring tensioner like U brakes, also make the arm from aluminium plate rather than stainless as its lighter.

If youre single speed already then no reason not to either make or buy a tensioner that doesnt mount off the mech hanger I made mine from a dmr sts, some odd brake components lying about and a motorbike exhaust spring - it keeps the chain VERY tight (possibly a bit too tight actually) and is bolted to the dropout and tensions upwards so can never really be hit when landing on it Side view View from below Had to drill a 6mm hole in the web of the dropout (where theres virtually no stress) to bolt it on but its a damn sight lighter, smaller and neater than a rear mech and doesnt rely on a mech hanger to hold it on

Convert to singlespeed and use a 74kingz tensioner or bodge one up yourself

Bit of a shite design then

Sounds as though there is no locknut holding the bearings on to the shaft When you say the outer bolt, do you mean the end cap on the pedals? On dmr V12s this was needed a 6mm allen key to undo it and there was a separate locknut underneath that held the pedal onto the spindle, if the locknut has come loose the pedal body will be able to move on the shaft. This is a quick autocad sketch I did showing a rough section through a pedal, in this case a dmr v12 with a ball race on the outside and plain bush on the inside - I suspect the atomlab pedals are similar. If you take the endcap off is the locknut tight? The locknut holds the ball race onto the shaft and the end cap holds the ball race into the pedal body. Check the locknut is tight, if it is and the pedal body can still move with the end cap screwed in then there is probably a manufacturing or assembly defect

To be honest I dont know, I never go to the gym and never had any problems with my lats - I cant gap 8 foot though Is it possible that your lats are relatively weak/undersized compared to the other shoulder and back muscles? That way when all of the other muscles tense for impact the weaker lats get pulled about. If this is the case then the reason its only the right hand one is that most riding is handed; chocolate foot forward and preferred side and all that I would ask at the gym I would expect there to be someone who can better advise, possibly consult a physio - we have our own resident physio who may be able to help but you will need to be a full member to PM him.

Sounds like hes pulling his lats when he lands Only thing I could suggest is either changing your technique or strengthening the muscle but then Im neither a doctor or physio so dont listen to me edit: oops picture was a bit big, smaller one inserted

I know, it was your review that prompted me to try them You made no mention as to using them on the rear so I thought Id add my experiences as such. Better front tyre than rear though i reckon

Picked up a pair of near new tioga square eights off ebay for less than twenty quid so though Id test them out as a rear tyre as the tread pattern is about the closest Ive seen to a moto trials tyre in 26" The largest size they come in is 2.10" but when stuffed on a wide rim (tryall in this instance) they do come up quite square, but not as wide as a 2.35 maxxis. The tyres themselves are pretty lightweight at about 850-900g a piece, theyre also folding kevlar bead so alittle easier to get on and off the rim than steel bead, but by that means more likely to peel off the rim at low pressures. The grip is pretty good, they will hold very well on a square edge without any problems, definitely more street orientated than natural; I cant see them being able to clear mud particularly well because the blocks are so close together. Whilst the carcass could do with being bigger the major downfall is the absolute lack of pinch resistance, I pinched on a wheelswap landed at an angle on a brick wall - tyre was at 20 psi (my singleply highroller wouldnt have pinched at 10 psi on that) so in my opinion they are shite rear tyre because they pinch so damn easily I will put a maxxis back on the rear and use the tiogas for the front, it would appear they need the pressure to stop pinching, perhaps a good tyre for a purely street (not street trials) rider. If they made the sidewalls thicker and upped the size to at least a 2.35 then I reckon it would make a pretty good street tyre

I was being facetious

Are they the concrete containers that they store the nuclear waste in from sellafield? Looks awesome

I know, the state of my fence and garden is shocking isnt it

Finally about done rebuilding myself a trials bike again Its good to be back on two one wheel again even though it hurt more than it used to Quick spec: - Hifi frame (thanks n.wood) BT forks (thanks bigman) King/tryall rear wheel with 16t king cog & tioga square eight (still testing this - not had a proper ride on them yet) Hope xc/mavic xc717 with bolt in axle and irc kujo RS7 with heatsink bash, UN52 BB and DMR V8s SS tensioner mounted and sprung from the fame - home made from a dmr simple tension seeker FSA Orbit extreme sealed headset with hope headlock thingy Kore stem with onza t-rex bars. Water bled HS33 with heatsink cnc reds, RB lever and echo control booster (dead grind and tar on rim) Mono trial front (thanks mafu26) Still very rusty but its alot easier to ride than my old zoo! boa (although its a fraction heavier). Ive not decided on whether I need a taller stem yet - have ridden it with a t-rex stem and I think I prefer the feel of it with the lower kore. Far from lightweight at about 10.8kg but I wasnt trying to make it light Just got to get some strength back into my arms and learn how to ride again

Neoprene shinguards can get really, really smeggy pretty quickly and they dont half make your legs sweat Keep them washed and they will last you ages although they will get to a point when washing them wont help - a bit like gloves. They also wrap around so they help protect the inside of your legs from the cranks/bashguard/frame I dont wear mine anymore, I hardly slip the pedals these days and even if I do I just grin and bear it - think Ive got used to the pain and/or theres no nerves left in my shins to feel anything

You need to have the hose sticking out the clamps otherwise when you tap the barb in it splits the hose A drop of normal chain oil or similar on the barb will lube it fine, I wouldnt worry about the oil comtaminating your bleed, afterall oil and water dont mix (unless you add an emulsifier) and neither are compressable under magura pressures so it wont affect it