Mark W

The Control booster fitted my T-Pro, but it was so big and bulky it was a whore to set up like you described. Try getting the Team booster instead :P Only does the top two bolts, but it's hella stiff so it's all for the good.

Megamo used to sell them drilled, but called 'em their "Megamo Drilled Trials Rim". It's currently what's stopping my hub from scraping along the floor at the moment, and they're pretty sexy :P DX-32's are uber strong and only £23 too, so it's a bit of a bargain.

Of course not, Luke. Koxx' stickers and laquer cost far more than the stickers and laquer other companies use, justifying the price :P

Crank extractor. Mine didn't even come off after a beating, so you're *way* better off using a crank extractor. Plus, twatting your cranks rapes your cranks and BB, so it's not really worth it...

If you're going to drill, don't fanny about. Little holes aren't going to save much weight, but are obviously going to reduce strength slightly. However, larger holes save more weight, without really reducing strength much more (it's more the fact there are actual holes in your rim that's the problem, not really the size, if you get me?). I got a front Try-All rim (drilled, obviously) and I had to adapt my technique for doing stuff 'cos I was sailing up stuff 'cos the front end was noticeably lighter. Saving weight in your wheel/tyre setup is one of the best places to do it, due to the fact that a lighter tyre means less rotational weight, plus on the back wheel, what's furthest forwards? Your front wheel. Therefore, if that's lighter, you're sound :) Standard rim tape won't be enough. However, electrical tape does the job. In my rear, I've got a rim tape surrounded by tape and it's fine. Front is just two Koxx rim strips that I got with the rim. Personally, I find it worth doing :P

I believe they are, yeah.

Trialszone, anyone? :P

Yeah, but it'll be called the "Onza T-Pro". Bur hur hur... Sorry for not approving the 'other' topic you made, it's just that it fell outside the guidelines too much. Mark

Yeah, I was referring to laquering to protect the finish, pretty much. You don't have to I suppose, but it'd be better to protect the paintwork than to just leave it?

Maybe he too realises how crap they look, feel, are and how much they rape your bike? :P

In the year and a half I used a Dicta on the front (that's right, over a year and a half out of one Dicta. Still going now on someone else's bike :P), it never once came loose. Just seems to be an ACS problem? Anyhoo - take the cranks off and grease the tapers. It could just be that they're a tiddly bit loose, so when you apply pressure it goes "crrrrrrrrrrk", as it were :) Fire some GT-85 into the freewheel through the little gap near the driveshell too.

You'd probably be better off putting a coupla coats of laquer on too though?

Erm, he's a total dickhead. That's pretty much the only reason, from what I can tell. He didn't need to do it, and even from the body language of the guy he beat shit into you should be able to tell that he wasn't exactly being aggressive towards the skatery guy, so it IS just the skatery guy being a wankstain.

Cheers Tom, I wasn't gonna go for SkateAmerica in the end anyway, I'll probably go to the halfpipe store or whatever the crap it was up there and get it from there. It's a right mission trying to get hold of LandScape stuff though!

If you don't want to paint it, Mike, just laquer it! You've just gotta give it a protective layer, and laquer will do that, so just laquer the chappy :- Good frame choice all the same, and bare frames look the sex - my brother's stripped and clear-coated his Stricker, and it looks *amazing*...

I could, but it'd be largely factually inaccurate :-"

Or Tartybike's custom sticker service :-

3 month warranty on Monty's. I *think* it might've exceeded it. Either way, they're £530 new so it's not gonna be significantly less. Not less than a new Levelboss 20 or a T-Pro...

But sure is fun to watch :-"

Yeah, but what I meant is that the Eno's are a lot better made. They just feel a lot more solid, and they give you way more confidence. When I had to swap back to my ACS it just felt totally, 100% different, in a really not so good way. It's just stuff like the fact that the pawls and springs are held in place better, there's greater accuracy in machining (hence none of the driveshell wobble on an Eno like an ACS), etc. But nah, for a tenner, you can't really go wrong with an ACS...

I had to go from my Eno to an ACS, and the change shocked even me :- More really is better, but I guess it could just be that the Eno's a trillion times better made than the ACS.

What did you 'remove' from the freewheel, btw?

Think about it - we have gear ratios because, if you ride mod, say: 18:12. This means that per one revolution of the cranks, you get 1.5 rotations of the back wheel. This means it's "easy" to pedal. However, like I said - 1.5 rotations of the back wheel. Therefore, if you have the freehub on the back, you're going to turn it 1.5 times per crank stroke. This means if you run a Profile on mod, you get 48*1.5 engagement points. On the other hand, if you run front freewheel, you just get 72 or 36 (Eno or ACS) because it's on the crank arm, so you have no mechanical advantage :-

The thread on OTN where someone put one of them on and it just launched the brake mount off the seat-stays worries me about the usage of those.

The tyre's will fit. The spokes are the only problem, just 'cos you'll need to know the lengths of them, and the lengths of the new ones you need. Spoke calculator time, or just look at the wheel building/spoke thread in the FAQ :- Mark