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Not to be contrarian, but I disagree. Say a set of bars weighs, for example, 350g. If all that matters is the weight and 250g of it is right at the ends underneath the grip, you've got a bar that will have your perfect geometry and a sensible weight that will snap as soon as you stand on the bike. Obviously no real bars would be that extreme, but weight distribution, and thus thickness, will inform the strength. Allowing flex at certain parts will remove stress from higher strain areas, improving life at the cost of feeling flexy. I'm not an engineer enough to know what is optimal, but where and how thick the butting is in a set of bars DOES play a role. As for the original question, I would suggest it's most likely a question of terminology that has gotten a little confused in translation. Maybe they are triple butted, but I think it very likely they're double, and mistakenly called triple. There are three measurements involved after all, so if you're writing an advert in a second language... It seems easily done.

Trialtech High Rise

I use one made from a steel ruler. It is essentially a simplified 74Kingz/Heatsink style. I have a spare ruler so could make you one and post it tomorrow on Royal Mail 24hr, if you like? Or if not I will take mine off and get you some photo's. Failing both of those, spoke tensioners were "a thing" for a fair while. Poke an end through some anchor point on the dropout, twist is around the axle, and bend it such that the other end runs over the chain rollers. The tension provided isn't great, but it's good enough to get by. Make sure you gently bend the chain-end of the spoke up so it doesn't catch whenever the chain moves backwards.

I've been riding a lot more casually of recent. The stock is much better for me spine problems than the mod, and I'm really enjoying the novelty of brakes, so it's a shame that even though I quite like almost all the clips in this it feels overall just a bit mediocre. Rear disc is utter joy.

I think it would be easiest to recommend setting them... ...back in the box On a serious note: no idea, but curious as to your motives for wanting to run them? (Not saying you shouldn't - just unusual.) Is it wrist problems or something?

Maybe do that first, next time? Glad you got sorted.

Do we not have mods anymore?

I would've thought that too, but it seems like the back ends varied within the same generation of frame. I can't remember whose they were, but one 26" I encountered a few years ago had brake mounts too close to the dropouts so pads being set perpendicular (read: issues for washerless mounts) would have it hanging off the inside of the rim. Another 26" bought in the same year had them too far the other way so pads would scrub the tyre. That seemed pretty loose to me, given their integratedness in that region of the frame, and couldn't understand how it was even possible if it was assembled in a jig. Never had a tape measure so unsure if it was an incorrect chainstay length, or if the overall length was right but the mounts were just positioned a bit wrong inside that length. This was a while back, so I've pointedly not said "Jealousy" because there's a chance they were Cleeps. Kudos on the 2mm and 0.1° though! Still haven't measured mine. It certainly seems not too far off what I was aiming for and it rides lovely, so I don't want to measure it and have it placeboistically ( :lol: ) affect how I ride because a certain number isn't what I thought it was.

Is it a new brake, or from an older bike? You really shouldn't have them if it's new, but it sounds like you've got sticky pistons. Clamping tightly doesn't restrict piston movement. Fair idea to have, but people would routinely do bolts up tight enough to strip threads out of frames without it effecting the piston. There's a bunch of methods people have mentioned for combating this and I'm really not good with brakes so don't take my word for it, but: Remove the slaves from the frame. Take the pads off. Have a good wipe around the pistons to get rid of the accumulated crap and grime. Hold your thumb or put some sort of clamp (not tight - just to stop it moving) over ONE of the pistons and pull the lever. This means the piston that can move moves much further. Apply some lube to the sides of the piston when it's all the way out, spread it about with a finger and pump it a bunch of times. Let the piston return and wipe off any excess lube so it doesn't get on your pads etc. Repeat the above for the other slave. Reassemble and reattatch. It probably won't make it like-new, but it should improve things a bit. ...Unless it's the piston in the lever that's causing the slow return, in which case I'm definitely letting someone else take the reins on detailing a fix!

Sprockets sit really far out on 116mm hubs - you'll be fine there unless you went for an unusual hub. The chainline on mods has basically always been shit, but it's good enough for what we use them for. A 128mm BB on a T-Pro with a fixed rear hub has proven itself to work fine on many, many counts. Also note that a lot of the apparently excessive clearance is there to account for the rear slave pistons that you currently don't have attached. They protrude a decent amount, and will close up that gap considerably. It will still clear - don't worry about that - but it won't look so over-the-top when you have a brake on the frame.

Wow. Spammers bumping older spammers to spam without themselves spamming. Devious! If I didn't hate it, I'd love it. Impressed that they have their own language too. I can't understand the message of that post for shit

Just a sanity check here, because rotors aren't things that usually crack: Are you using floating rotors? (With an aluminium centre piece.) If you are, don't. There's a few high-tier exceptions, but the overwhelming rule of thumb is that floating rotors and trials don't mix. I run BB5s and know from experience some of the play will probably be pad rock. If you lock the brake on and push the bike back and forth, you'll see the pad clips move a bit inside the caliper. This is normal, and not a problem. If you are experiencing more movement than that can explain, something might be amiss.

I don't have a positive suggestion for you, but I can tell you with utmost certainty no-one on earth wants anything to do with any of those last three. Their inclusion makes the likelihood of you being a bot very high, to my mind.

Pretty sure they dredge this shit up every few years just to look like they're doing something and it never goes anywhere. If a police car pulled you over and dished out a fine for speeding or running a red, fine. Don't disagree with that. Number plates would be entirely unenforceable though. Look at how "illegal" the electric scooters you see absolutely f**king everywhere are. (Not to mention the plates are entirely the reporter's invention. Even the article says "dude said 'there are questions about how that would be done'". Total click-bait. What a surprise.) If you can't even police the people in cars that already have these systems in place and are much harder to get hold of etc., how the f**k do they hope it will be any different for cyclists after introducing a system that will face huge opposition to introduction?

That was my thought before the rotor died - it still did it on the Shimanos. Seems to be working now though so fingers crossed! Both the bite and hold are also SIGNIFICANTLY better on the Shimanos. It's almost like they did some actual R&D or something... Thanks all

370 (soon to be 365, probably), +40, 680, 73.75 (), and I have to confess I haven't actually measured the wheelbase. I think it should be somewhere around the 1045 mark with that head angle.

I made a thing.

I've had a couple and had some weird teething issues with the brakes. They were pulling in and sticking on, like a rim brake with too much tar. Such unusual ones that it's a freak one-off rather than an issue with BB5s. Then I found out those cheap rotors just were NOT good enough. Landed a gap that was a bit of a stretch for me, and the rotor completely crumpled in on itself from too much torque. Fortunately, Halfords came to the rescue with a pair of SLXs mid-ride. It feels bloody lovely. Only downside so far is weight. It's not crazy, going from a 9.6kg bike to 11kg, I can really feel it. Mostly only when trying to go big. The rear wheel is slammed at 370, but I'm having serious thoughts about just going for it and filing the dropouts a bit more to get down to 365. I just want a few rides on it to scope it out first. Edit: I need to pull it all apart to put some lacquer on it very soon anyway, so I might do it then.

I loved the Cannibal for a lot of things, but it was still too big for me, and too squeaky. Finally got myself into a position to do something about it. Big thanks to Trialtech for some parts, Tarty for some other parts and a few tools, Tom for other other parts, Adam for the tube bender, and Dan's Dad for the welder. It appears my scrounging game is strong at the minute.

Touching is bad. Close is fine. If it spins freely, and it doesn't touch when you put power through it or land awkwardly, you can run it with no problems.

It's not dead, it's just pretty altered. There's groups on Facebook which did a real number on forum popularity, but even with those the scene feels very much more fragmented than it used to be. People say it's shrunk, but I'm not so sure. Maybe it has, but I kind of feel like about the same number of people ride, but all in their own little groups that don't cross paths so much. Parts are weird. Pretty much everyone rides a Crewkerz now, and if they don't it's because they're on a Clean, and Inspired, or one of the newer carbon or street brands. They seem to have f**ked a lot of standardised parts off to lock you in to their own product line, which often has weak points. (The Clean crankset only fits the Clean freewheel, for example, and it's a terrifying thing to be near someone riding one.) It's definitely gone quiet, but it's not gone, and people don't seem to want part variety or builds that suit them now. A handful of people ride these modern bikes (because that's all that's available at the minute) and tweak them to suit - shorter and higher stems or different bars etc - but the overwhelming majority seem to get a complete bike and ride it as sold, more like road bikes and MTB markets. This is all subjective to my experience too, and I'm somewhat withdrawn from the scene too. Other people may have better knowledge.

I really need to get back on with that. There's so much more to add but I just keep prioritising other things. Would you have any interest in combining the two? Two people working on one thing is much more effective than working on two separate things. It's just a wordpress site so a login can be arranged very easily... Willing to change various bits of the format if you think it needs it. I know I have my own list of things I want to change

To clarify: this was a normal hook. Not hanging.

There's one in his indoor setup I've seen him do measures in at 210* *Full transparency - there's a small lip on the edge that helps grip/pop a little bit, but still...

Not the ones you were asking after, but mandatory viewing nontheless: