Azarathal

I've found LGM's to be unreliable. Good one moment and terrible the next. Never owned a set of Heatsink yellows but I've ridden 3-4 bikes with the pads and they were amazing.

Alright cheers Adam, I'll give it a go when I'm working Sat, with the owner today so I won't even be able to breath in my spare time.

Well yeah but my problems seem to be user related

My shop is stupidly underequiped and the owner has no business sense and no customer relations. The manager is alright though, a bit eccentric but he knows his stuff. Give hope a ring regarding what exact problem?

Yeah, ive never had any training nor have I encountered problems like this before, even on my old bike with a Marta on the front.

The only Bikeshop near me that I'd trust, I wouldn't even let my manager near my bike. I'm only going to let them sort it as I cba to touch my bike.

Graphics card is part of the pc. Graphics cards are mainly for displaying graphics, for video processing you need a decent CPU and as much ram as you can get your hands on.

The shop owner is such a stingy f**k, bike stands falling apart, useless wheeljig etc, I'm only there 'cos I choose my hours and get paid cash. Adam, I think I'm going to be ordering another set of pads :/ I cba with it anymore, I might just get cyclezone to do it while I've got cash to burn, once I've finished work I don't want to touch my own bike

I shall, the shop I work at doesnt have the tool but I'll go to my local CycleZone.

There are none at all.

It's the left hand pad that's too close, adding shims would make it worse

Ok so I'll just leave my front brake alone. Ive watched the hope vids, I'm just wondering if it is a shit bleed or because one pad is so far away? Also, anyway to stop the honking front brake? Disc cleaner and drag it?

Was bled recently, it's a good bleed it just pulls in slightly further than I'd like. The right side pad is quite far away and the lever pulls in almost to the bar, I assume this is just a shit bleed though.

Ok guys, going to be my last thread for a while, since moving to discs I feel like such a bikenewb again. Front disc, old style lever mono trials. The hope brakes I've felt seem to have very little lever travel, mine pulls in a bit further than I'd like and was wondering if I could fix this via bleeding? Rear disc, new style lever mono trials. #5 caliper with a +20 adapter so I can run a 160rotor on the rear. The rotor is too far to the left, and is close to rubbing. Without shaving any material off my frame / adapter I can't think of how to fix this? The right pad is quite far away and I'm guessing this is the reason why my lever pulls in quite far? Or is it just my shit bleed? After having my banjo bolt pop off and ruin new pads the other day, I've had to put new pads in and rebleed. I thought I'd done this perfectly, wrapped everything in tissue and had no visible spillage, now it seems both my front and rear discs are slightly contaminated, when they're wet they work flawlessly but as soon as they dry out they honk like a bitch, shall I just keep dragging the brakes + pouring water on them? Cheers for any help and sorry for the wall of text.

Instead of paying between £30-60 a month for poorly equipped gyms (the ones local to me reflect this) spent £60-70 on a decent bench and £50ish on a cheap dumbbell / barbell set. You could also get everything secondhand if you wanted, your muscles won't know if what they're lifting is rusty / old.

The rotor, bike, wheel etc were all washed down with MucOff. So you're saying boil the pads in soapy water and then scrub them down? I washed them and poured the kettle over them within 5minutes of becoming contaminated.

Heya guys, earlier today my pads got covered in Dot fluid. I washed them in hot soapy water, poured a kettle over them and then burnt them. Would this be sufficient or are my pads forever contaminated?

I like my front tyre to be about 20psi, sometimes slightly harder, this means Small Blocks would be terrible for me. My holy roller is nice and stable as well as grippy between 20 and 25 psi.

I'll leave the wheel as it is, thanks for the offer anyway. I think this is going to be a massive longshot but I'll shoot anyway. As the pads were on the bike for less than 30mins is there any sort of returns on it? Or am I stuck with the contaminated pads?

Well I'm sorry Adam, I know mistakes happen and whereas you've had a good weekend, I certainly haven't, rear hope I got off of a member on here pissed fluid out of the banjo bolt ruining my new pads before I'd even ridden trials, so far a £60 bargain has turned into a £100+ piss take. No chance of sending the spokes back, I had to make do as I was supposed to be riding Today and tomorrow. I won't need spokes for a good while now as I've got my new wheels sorted but next time I'll just double check I've left all required information. Again, I'm sorry for making such a big deal out of it.

Found out the reason the brake was still spongy, turns out it was leaking from the banjo bolt, when I went to nip it up a tiny bit the head snapped clean off leaving the threaded end in the caliper. Luckily I manager to turn it out using a screw driver. The £60 bargin is now looking to be about £100 as it needed pads + adaptor. Now it needs new pads again and a banjo bolt. So pissed off.

Hey guys, finally gone dual disc! Only got one picture atm but I'll get more later. Small question though, the brakes are amazing but they pull in at least half way to the bar and feel a little spongy. I've bled them a couple of times and once there was no more air coming out I still did another 2-3 reservoir topups to make sure. Am I just shit at bleeding or is there some underlying problem?

Because I forgot to on this one occasion, I sent them a follow up email which they apparently never received (I believe them) and even though I forgot to specify it's something that should be confirmed. I know people have mentioned CRC, will they stock spokes that short?

Clean the splines if secondhand and then locktite, then grease, then install. If new just grease it and leave the factory locktite on there.

First set of spokes I ordered I didn't specify which lacing pattern I wanted. Instead of calling me they defaulted to 2x which annoyed me, yes it works but it isn't the point, when crucial information is left out you don't just "go ahead". Second set I ordered in black and received them in plain silver. Obviously this is because they were out of stock of black but again, no call and not even a small note explaining. Because on both occasions I've needed the wheels to be built asap I didn't send the spokes back and I'm now stuck with it.