Azarathal

You have 160 on the front right? And 180 on the back? If possible swap them around.

He meant the bb you removed from your frame.

I've always wondered about this. The helicoil is is steel, which is stronger. The helicoil is threaded into Alu which is the same strength as before. Surely it'll be the same strength as you have the same chance of pulling the coil out of the Alu?

Manufacturers use these on the front of full builds as cheap brakes with relatively good power. The main reason though is that they modulate well on the front. Normally on mod's its 160 rotors front and rear but with this brake you might want to go for something bigger such as a 180.

I lol'd

Not sure if serious.

You forgot to mention, put meths in the bottom half of the coke can. I know after cleaning it it seems like the wise choice but I can guarantee some f**ktard will try pour it in the top and wonder when their shoes are wet.

Do you know what freewheel it is? The crack could mean a few different things. When it makes the noise does it skip too?

Have any of the tarty boys tried this yet? It's out of my price range atm for at least another 4-5 weeks. I'm split between an Echo SL @ £40 or hope my freewheel doesn't completely shred a second set of internals and wait for this...

No longer in for this, heading up to London instead (non-bike related)

Rubbing is top cap too tight normally. Sounds like you're biting the bearings.

It allows the oil and water to mix instead of having the oil float on top

Whenever I've had a long break I start big. Try getting on a really thin ledge with a fair sized drop. You'll either learn to balance quick or fall. Also try endo hopping. I tend to find 5-6 consecutive hops on the front wheel makes my rear wheel control better, no idea why.

A few of us are riding Sunday although I'm sure I can convince chinners to come sunday too.

Indeed I do, two if I remember correctly.

Not tight but not slack, you can move it up and down by hand but it doesnt sag.

Outer teeth are fine, last time I checked the engagement points were fine, it was perfectly clean and lubed with dry Teflon (louder and my crisp engagements)

Hey guys. about 5weels ago my freewheel kinda died. Kept getting tight spots and locking up as well as making various loud noises. New springs + pawls, I've ridden trials twice since and I've been using it as a get around bike to wear the pawls in. Today, another loud bang and more locking. I'll borrow some tools from work on Tuesday to open it up but I suspect it's the same problem - 2-3 pawls with a huge groove in them and 1 completely shattered. Do you think it'd be worth putting yet another set up pawls in or do I give up?

No but two can.

The people claiming they can't be bled with water are simply repeating what they've read on here or "their friends" have said. Only the original TR brakes leaked and that was due the metal shavings inside the brake that hadn't been cleaned out properly. I believe Ali C has water bled them without problems and so have I.

I don't get depressed but I get Anxious / Paranoid about everything. That being said my usual sleeping routine is 4am-9/10ish so I'm putting that down to sleep deprivation. Anyone else get those moments where something meaningless will happen but for a split second get into a proper rage for no reason? Again I'm putting it down to lack of sleep.

Ahh John I thought he meant to literally have it sat on the axle without being locked into place by anything, my bad. Surely with the bash ring actually attached to the BB more of the impact is going to go into the BB-Bearings?

Well before you go cutting your bike apart make sure you can run a ring properly otherwise you'll have no bash protection and will most likely rape your frame if you're not smooth.

Fixed. I was thinking about getting the BT Large disk hub Adam told me about via email but as I couldn't find much information on it I decided to spend my money of family presents Now I'm saving up again, converting to dual disk bit by bit.

Cheaper rear (116mm) disk hubs,