Azarathal

Hey guys, I've been offered some brand new and unused Viz light 20" forks. I'm wondering if anyones run them? What're they like?

Box squats.

1 post, most likely the guy selling the bike. Registered yesterday, I'd still like to say it's fairly suspicious.

I had an echo TR lever with no problems for almost a year, I've never heard of anyone with this problem.

Echo TR's as a whole brake are fine too. Not sure about helmets but a lot of people recommend the Giro Hex.

Buy the slaves and levers separately? I'm sure you could get someone to sell you that exact set up secondhand. You can bleed them fine with water.

Magura slaves with a Echo TR lever.

Trials, Jogging, 5day split targetting every part of my body using dumbbells and a bench, especially focus'ing on the legs, you don't have to train for size, I train my legs for strength rather than mass (low weights, high reps) as the legs release endorthins and a load of testosterone when worked, this is crucial for building any type of muscle. My diet is utter shit but I manage to get at least 100-150g of protien a day and I keep myself hydrated.

They want £45 per brake, I'll leave it.

All of my rotor bolts are tight and my disc rocks back and forth, apparently its just the pads moving and they'll bed in soon.

Cheers for the advice Adam, do you know how long they usually take or is it best to phone them?

Heya guys, I have a feeling it could be a mixture of three problems. 1: Poor bleed, both brakes pull in to about an inch away from the bar. Every other hope I've tried has had barely any lever travel, bites instantly and has amazing hold and feels solid. 2: Contaminated pads / rotor. When my brake gets wet it honks an squeals and takes ages to start working again. 3: Leaking. I occasionally find traces of oil on the caliper and lever blade but the lever feel doesn't seem affected. I'm thinking of returning them to Hope for a service whilst my bike is awaiting a headset. What do you guy think?

He also uses tar. Although nearly all pads work amazing with tar the yellows do seem to be slightly better after riding a few bikes today with smooth, tar'd rims and different pads.

It's a very bad place to start from my point of view, a local bike shop had one in and I test rode it. Engagements are horrible and slack, the bike feels nasty on the rear wheel, brakes worked but weren't really that good. I can imagine a few years ago it was a godsend, now its a curse. Get a phase if you're after a stock for your first bike, a few decent riders still have a phase purely because it's actually quite decent.

On the rear of a mod you'll most likely run into a lot of problems with a rear vee. Tyre clearance, crank clearance, will the pads align etc. I've personally tried and failed, when I got the tyre to clear it with different adapters it just "Didn't feel right".

Guessing the Mod king is just the bmx version. It's 110mm designed for 116mm frame spacing when using snail cams. These hubs go for about £100-120 from what I've seen, depending on the condition of the frame I'd say it's a bargain.

I can only sidehop to rear. All other forms of sidehopping either fail epically or I pussy out.

Shimano Slx. One of my mates brought his lush as f**k hardtail into the shop and we were messing about out back attempting trials on it, surprisingly it's not too bad. Anyway, those brakes are nice and sharp with quite impressive hole, I'm not sure of the price but it's something to look out for.

Same here Bender, he's got septum, bridge, tunnels, snakebites & anglebites plus tattoo's.

Thats 'cos you're a giant my good sir.

It's best to stick with vee's though.

Hey man it's Mikey, Bracknell's my local, if you're ever around just give me a shout on fb.

Tarty recommend organic for the hope trials, pretty sure it'd be the same suggestion for other brakes.

You could as long as you didn't get the batch filled with swarf.