Martin Reynolds

Surely its this? bb30, and you can use external cups on normal frames?

euro = normal bb? if so, the pictures show the threaded cups

finally getting there! Anyone else question the lack of threads on the bb cups?

i can see the similarities, but theres only going to be so many frame designs before everythings going to look the same. Its a simple design, which keeps the manafacturing costs down and retains strength, which is why it looks similar to the echo.

Maybe they did it for the irony of calling something light and weak a 'tractor'

This. I ride stock with +55bb rise, and i find 130 x 25 stem with a few stackers (15mm atm) perfect. 127 x 30 would be perfect for shorter people / bikes with mid range bb rise. And i HATE having to cut steer tube down!

Lost almost 10 pounds

Whats the wear like on the ADMs? doesn't sound that long, unless your running harsh grinds?

SWEEEEETTTT!!!!!!

Was it hesitating at 6k, or was that your driving?

its really easy, just make sure you lock everything in place with timing pins, and tension it correctly!

Its also worth checking the CV boots. I replaced my driveshafts about a year ago, and notised yesturday one of the boots was completly split!

i did think of doing a 4 stud conversion a while back, but it means having to find a set of struts and beam axle, and a set of wheels and tyres :/ i thought of getting the drive flanges machined, would it effect the wheel balance? or is it a matter of it being so close to the center of rotation, a gram ot two imbalance wouldnt effect it? Theres a GT and GTi, but they're both 4 stud.

long story. multi colour front end was from a car accident, havnt got around to painting it. I had a matching set of the ACS front wheels, however due to the offset, they rubbed badly on the back. So i got a set of 4 4spoke rims, got a them fitted to the back, and they dont fit the front due to the lip on the drive flange being bigger than the hole in the rims. I could space them out to clear the drive flange, but they might stick out too far and i'd be in the same boat

Says something about her parenting skills, but from everything ive seen you seem like an amazing dad! Properly because you're still a kid at heart

The wheels do sit out a bit, ive got a set to go on the front to match the back, however they dont fit due to the lip on the drive flange (i think there may be different drive flanges for the petrols and diesels) The front has settled a bit, but the springs are only 30mm lowering, so i doubt they'll drop much more.

Finally got around to sorting the suspension on my car! Before: After: Spring Difference: Shock difference (plus very leaky old shocks): A hole i had to weld up on the chassis rail

i thought the video was pretty shite really. You clearly can ride well, but the first minute of the video was pointless (i had the sound off, so unless i didnt hear anything). The camera angles could be SO much better and you could have done with trimming down some of the clips more.(im pretty sure you used one clip twice) Just saying your video doesn't seem to do your riding any justice.

foot jam plate?

On non Jardo/A3 related news, finally got my shocks through after hassling the bloke for two weeks! Rear installed , snapped a spanner in the process.

i was just thinking that using a bashring would give better coverage;you'd protect the disk tab 'face' and im sure it'd still be possible to mash the tabs up with the bolts in them

What about a bashguard for disk mounts on hubs? means that the flanges wouldnt get damaged from sidehops to the left

Thought i saw a nipple Looks good dude, think the different font looks better imo.

Generally they knock worse in reverse. Find yourself an empty car park, full lock and swing it in reverse. You can get away with simply taking the cv boot off (if its not sealed) and slapping aload more grease in it. that should quiten it down and help you find which one it is.