dezmtber

I am up for Cannock one Sunday soon

Funny enough I found ust to take a compressor if using tubeless ready tyres. But any pump when using ust rims and ust tyres. But stans/wtb rims and maxxis/spesh tubeless ready tyres can be pumped up using regular pumps so long as you use two layers of rim strip.

What I have learned over many years of tubeless fitting. Sealants: Stans or latex is the best and seals pretty much anything Slime pro doesn't seem to ever dry out ever its just amazing, I tend to use this to top up a dry tubeless from its original stans sealant Tyres: Spesh, maxxis and ust work well with pretty much any rim Schwalbe, panaracer seem to seal up much slower over a few days. Pretty much all rims can be sealed using stans tape or roval rim tape and cloth tape to fill out really deep rims. Happy cycling hope this helps a bit

They haven't been riding as long as most mentioned. But what about Ben savage and Danny butler. They were and still are top riders who rode well in the late nineties.

You could try a shallower upper tapered ring. By the looks of the one fitted you could make up an extra mm or so. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/headset_spares/hope_07_headset_spares/c57p12177.html

The hope bb30 axle will be very similar to e13 cranks look at what they currently offer hopes will be pretty much the same but they are doing spiders to fit double rings/ 22 and bash http://bythehive.com/e-thirteen/components/bsa-bbs/

The only bleed kit I have worked with that lasts, is avids workshop bleed kit they cost a small fortune but so far I have been bleeding avids for just over a year with this and its showing no signs of tightness or failing at all. If you bleed as often as you say you do then this kit is a must buy http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/avid-professional-disc-brake-bleed-kit/rp-prod75475

http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/01/16/bikerumor-pic-of-the-day-shipley-glen/

A mate of mine many years ago cut small chunks of metal from the bridge on his suspension forks so they would fit a nokian gazzalodi 3" tyre. Result broken fork bridge on qr acle forks twisty

When asked how much its worth I tell them how many hours work I had to do to afford it.

I would say mostly technique for trials riding. Fitness comes on more on competition riding but just regular out for fun its just practice makes perfect

Me although recent months I haven't riden since the Shipley glen nationals final, so I must either get out more or sell up

there you go same stuff rockshox just stick on there product barcode

The newer bottles aren't labled as rockshox anymore I will get you a picture at work tommorow. The newer bottles aren't labled as rockshox anymore I will get you a picture at work tommorow.

The lower leg fork oil supplyed by rockshox now is maxima 4 stroke oil. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/7376/i/maxima-maxum4-extra-oil http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk//product.asp?category=840&part%5Fno=PS15WT&find%5Fcategory=840&find%5Fdescription=&find%5Fpart%5Fdesc=

To lubricate the lower leg on suspension forks you can use 15/50w fully synthetic engine oil which is what rockshox are using atm. What ever you do don't use gt85 or tf2 or any spray oil that's not for suspension or a silicon spray. The substance in gt85 that penetrates rusted bolts and make the ptfe oil thin enough to work as intended is petrolum based, meaning it will penetrate the rubber seals take hold of the oils in the rubber and evaporate/ degreace the this will cause the seals to dry and crack. If your seals ate cracked it isn't worn out you broke it. Under normal use with good maintenance those seals wont crack for 10-15 years

I know that feeling too well, but I would keep an eye out for a frame that's more reliable so there's no nasty surprises that could be you snapping this cheap frame meaning new frame or worse still time off work. I always use the time of work excuse to spend more cash on bikes, it always helps to make the missus think you riding cheap parts could cause injurys and cost more in the long run.

It was George who broke the echo cranks, he had riden one season of tyke trial/national novice riding and quite a regular street rider during the week. But your right he only weighs about 9st or so those cranks should have lasted better

The next road bike party would be ace with a load of really old school British riders, making it. Hawzie, lance mcdurmot, peaty, choppah,,,,, ect

Buy a new frame even better idea

Is it just me that's a bit confused a hope 40t hub with 40ep? Are you running the hub with only 2 pawls? They have 40 teeth on the driver, and 4 pawls acting in pairs making 80ep. You need to do nothing to your hub unless its a much older hope pro 2 without 40t

With the latex sealant it seals thorns and smaller glass/rock pinches and slits. It works best with folding/kevlar,armid bead tyres with dualply sidewalls. The only problem I found was stopping them burping, I found when ran at really low pressure or with heavy riders the tyre burped now and again but only lost 1-3 psi after say half an hours proper bashing it around I will be making my current bike tubeless. Using 24" neon comp rims on macaskill air kings, should be an interesting setup

So long as its a butcher grid not a butcher control, the spesh control tyres have very weak sidewalls, the grids will help fix this, but those grid sidewalls are only the same as basic maxxis exo tyres.

Schwalbe rock razor on the rear is very fast on trail centres but awful if its loose muddy trails

Single ply folding tyres will work tubeless but the sidewalls will most likely fail quite quick in rocky conditions. There's a lot of tyres that have reinforced sidewalls for tubeless setups e.g exo, snakeskin, protection.....ect When I run tubeless I tend to go with 2.4 wide tyres with extra sidewall reinforcements to reduce the chance of rim damage or tyre snake bites. Conti do apex sidewalls and schwalbe do super gravity. There worth looking into if your riding a 140-160 travel bike over practically dh tracks