Krisboats

I'm not "being stubborn and not opening my mind" but i don't get what your arguments are on about. If theres no friction on the wheels, then the plane is effectively floating isn't it? doesn't that make the conveyer belt irrelevant? But if the conveyer is running at the right speed to counteract the plane from going forwards, With all the planes weight being on the wheels it would mean that if they were being counteracted from spinning, then the plane wouldn't be able to go anywhere... The plane needs to roll first to take off so it can get its required air lift over the wings. But if its being stopped from rolling it won't have any lift so will not take off. I don't get what oli means by saying that the plane will just be able to have thrust and lift off... it needs to roll first but it's being stopped from rolling so if theres no forwards motion then the plane won't have any wind going over the wings so it can't just take off. If you could try explaining a bit more clearly then i would most likely get it, try using bullt points or something, it would help me out loads.

it matches you into a set when you first start and then puts you in with players of the same skill level as you progress, it continually monitors your stats and puts you in with people who are about the same. I'm gonna be trying it out tonight and it doesn't matter if i don't really win anything... it wasn't my money in the first place.

None of those are dogs... this is a dog! 8 1/2 weeks old and at the minute it doesn't have a name but as far as i'm concerned its called either puppy or pup. We've had it since friday, and i've toilet trained it and taught it how to play fetch, its almost grasped sit and stay but it doesn't work everytime.

Right this site is a new online gaming site like no other. You pay a small fee (usually £1) to join a game and you get prizes if you come in at the top 3 players of the game at the end of the match, you cash in on the £10 minimum pot plus all the entry fee's, or alternatively if it's a team match the winning team gets a share of the prize. So if you get first place you get all of the pot and if its a team match it's shared out equally regardless of individual kills. Any money you win is redeemable to your paypal account, at any time.. but may take up to 72 hours to clear into it. You can top up your account with money if you keep losing but there's no monthly fee so if you only want to use the free £5 promo code i give you below then thats fine. PCFORMAT teamed up with prizefight to give every reader a £5 starting stake so you can enter events straight away. All you have to do is visit http://www.prizefight.co.uk and sign up with your name e-mail address and postal address. Then when you get your confirmational e-mail and sign into your account you can enter in a promotional code to get your free £5.00. the special promotional code is: FTPCF-PROMO-ZHFSY-SDSAF The truly great thing about this site is that all players are seeded after their first deathmatch (and they're rankings are updated automatically for every match thereafter) so you'll never find yourself playing against people who are much better than you; this guarantees close matches that you'll have a good chance of winning - or losing of course . Happy hunting everyone! I just noticed that if i refer a friend we both get an extra £5 each after you've signed up and played your first match, so if anyone wants me to do that so you can have a go at getting the £5 friend recommendation as well as the promotional code above so you have a nice £10 then put your e-mail address below and i'll do that for you . Here's an example of one of the cheap matches:

I'm not being fussy but there are a couple of mistakes, his right arm is bigger than the left, by a lot. His right leg is invisible unless its a glass leg, which could be a bit poor for riding trials on as it would most likely smash. The right side of the forks is also invisble, unless your going with a rigid version of the cannondale lefty forks. The bars aren't in the same perspective as the bike... they point to the viewer where as the bike is pointing at a completely different angle. There also seems to be some very weird wheel build going on with a very bulged tyre. Oh yeah, the right chainstay isn't attached to the frame either. Good action pose though, and i like the way you made the foot curl around the pedal, not many people would think of doing that.

As far as i'm aware my mate just bought us some tickets to go see them in coventry, should be a right good show. It's in june or something though i think so i stil have a bit of a wait.

Well it looks like you're either going to have to stick with your oil and have a slow return or you can bleed it with water and have a much faster return. I've had water in my magura for over 6 months now with no problems at all, and i know theres other people who have had it in for longer. Its like mark said, magura's come with black pads but we change those to one's that will work better for trials... why is everyone so scared to do the same with what they bleed it with? There is the other option that you can take the lever off, the get some needle nose pliers and GENTLY pull the little piston out and give the spring that sits behind it a bit of a stretch... i've done this to mine and it made my brake fell much more lively. I am in no way responsible fo you f**king your magura up by being heavy handed and attacking the seals with the pliers or dropping it on the floor and standing on it .

yes it is a 1/8" chain. I would recommend a shadow conspiracy half link, they seem to be really tough and i use one in my kmc kool, it hasn't stretched at all and the pin is much bigger and the plates are wider so it fits in perfectly.

I can switzerland squeaker, but i can only get about 5-6 front hops. I just go for something and usually it just happens, i don't really consciously think about how i'm going to do it, i just ride the bike and see if it happens or not. Its usally things like spins that get me confused, bunnyhopping or doing slower moving moves isn't really that hard.

Done it, it wasn't that hard really, just sometimes took a while for me to notice something that i had to use. Here's the url for the guestbook if anybody wants to go on a massive completion guestbook spamming frenzy! http://www.fasco-csc.com/guestbook/input_e...id=whitechamber

You could be more likely to get some help from an actual o2 shop. Yuo coulf go in and plea your case to them and get them to sort it. Then if they don't keep harassing them till they do, it will also make sure you don't get fobbed off again if your in there refusing to leave unless they do something. worth a try i suppose.

How old is the tyre... it mighty just need replacing

I loved the biginning of this video, it looked so dreamy and smart. Some of the riding was just like . good work, i'm looking forward to the next video.

The forks were about 5 weeks old . If i broke something on his bike i'd most definately pay towards getting it replaced, if not i'd replace it fully. Its just being a decent person, if you break something of someone elses you get it sorted... simple as. I still love you though jon

This thread broke pretty much everything it told you not to do... dumbass! (quoting the vid) You put it in an irrelevant area of the forum, didn't contribute enough of an opinion about it, the thing itself isn't helpful, has been seen and done before so you havn't used the search properly and you obviously didn't look at the little "best of the internet" sticky in chit chat which is where this should have been put.

I just ground my ronnie today, if its a ronnie with plazmatic crm's then the bestgrind i found that worked for me was a light-medium grind. Get a fresh disc, i use a wilko's own stone cutting disk. The longer wearing the disc is the better, i've used a disc that wore down loads before i'd even finished one side of the rim and that made the grind really crap so go for a hard wearing disc. Hold the grind at a slant ( ____/____ << a bit less than that) and quickly brush the grinder across in that direction>>> by quickly i mean rather fast so you can cover about 2-3 inches of rim in one swing of the grinder. Just keep going round in a clockwise direction until you get to where you started. Flip the wheel over and do the same on the other side. Then it should work fantastically, it should honk well and have a really good hold but it won't wear the pads down much either so thats another good thing.

here we go, the crazy japanese have been at it again, looks a bit weird when it walks though. Still mega cool, i definately want one. link to robot

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You didn't tap that bit and land it though ben, i watched you everytime you attempted it, you never made it to your back wheel, only to bash. And yes you do struggle with 42", you havn't done the 41" tap in the hexagonal garden bits in leicester near new walk yet despite trying countless times.

Pads: Heatsink coust pads (cnc'd backings) Time used: 4-5 days Rim used: onza ronnie Grind: Yes, slightly dead... I will edit once re-grinded and after the pads have been used for a bit longer Brake used: Magura hs33 04 with standard booster (2 bolt mounts) What is your opinion of a working brake: Locks without fail when i pull hard on the brake, slight modulation. How do they compare to previous pads you have used: good hold, a more honky noise, a bit deeper than plazmatic crm's Review: They instantly feel more solid when you pull the lever, you don't get as much spongyness where normal pads flex. The hold is really quite amazing, and they don't really have much modulation which isn't really a bad thing. They work much better in the wet than plazmatic crm's and are about the same as crm's in the dry using my current dead/ weird grind. I am very lpeased at the minute, i will edit when i have tested them for longer.

switch everything off and switch it all back on again? if that doesn't work is there a reset switch on your router? and you could system restore xp to before you did it if its a problem on the laptop side... that might get it.

i'm currently working on one, but thats gonna be a surprise. I have found that standing on the rear wheel and doing crankflip cancan's get most people amazed. X-ups usually work, but like ashton said you gotta push the bars round not pull them, for that little extra style... and hold them for a good few seconds too just so it doesn't look like it was a mistake.

thats the way i do it too dave, everyone thinks i'm crazy for doing it like that but i reckon they're just too scared or too weak to hold the grinder with one hand. Its so much fatser as well. You just deflate your tyre grind a bit, spin the wheel, grind a bit, spin the wheel and then flip it over and do the other side. Then pump your tyre back up and away you go. Awesome.

if its a smooth rim use furniture polish, it cleans off all the crap and after its dried the brake locks like nothing else on this earth, apart from grinded rims... they definately beat smooth ones anyday.

I have some of the heatsink cnc coust pads, they grip really well and honk as well now that i took a couple of minutes to set them up. My friend has some of these majic pads and i personally think they look ridiculous, the backings have been hacked into a new shape and have been done unevenly and unprofessionally. The material also looks like it has been pulled off a black trainer or some other type of shoe. There's a gluey finger print on the back of the pads and you can use the pads to write on things though because the "rubber" just comes straight off. i wouldn't trust them on my bike thats for sure. coust pads and plazmatic crm's are definately my favourite pads of all time, they both perform about the same but the coust's go honk and they crm's squeal then honk.