AdamR28

Hot tub works Took 3.5 hours to heat, then we spent 3 hours in it last night. Eyes, nose and skin don't get battered like normal which is a bonus. The water coming out of the heater coil was boiling (!) so that should kill any nasties. It even maintained 36 degrees for over an hour after we'd stopped feeding the fire! Next upgrade: a better, more insulated lid, in two halves so we can keep it partly covered for winter use.

Beltin' to hear that you've completed, Mark! Keen to hear more next time I see you

The slaves have been the same since the late 80s (or something like that)!

The RB lever was 13mm bore, Magura HS33 levers have always been 14mm. So yes, the RB lever moves the pistons less, but has more power.

Trialtech.

Nice. Seems like bar ends and toe clips are back, baby!

https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/144003-1998-wide-body-1800/

Keen eye! And yes. The idea was completely off grid

Mega! Glad to know it works. We have a washing machine drum BBQ / fire pit too, so that gives another option...

Looking pro Rowan! I recently built an off grid hot tub from an old IBC, a dead propane cylinder, a bit of copper tubing, and various recycled insulation type stuff. First attempt did not go to plan, was way too cold at starting temp and I use crap wood. Even so, the temp went up 4 degrees an hour, but we never actually got in past our thighs Will try again in the next week or so now its a bit warmer, and the heater has had a small tweak...

Robin Hood. Look at the front suspension setup. Just no. The Westy on eBay looks decent for about 6k. The old narrow body, live axle cars with a period engine on carbs have a lot of charm and personality. Link to other one? Are you a member on WSCC? Mega bargains like this randomly crop up, so you have to check frequently: https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/143915-2001-westfield-seiw-21l-pinto-now-sold/

Dear God no.

Awesome! But yeah, maybe some more rear rebound damping would calm it down a touch...

Nah, though a plain old steel washer is a good idea, just so the bolt head doesn't mash the tug.

If you look at the photos I posted above, you can see why a vacuum technique won't work very well (and hence took a couple of tries).

Orientate / tap as described while bleeding.

Yep. Exactly the symptoms of these brakes with air in.

These are tricky to get right - even Magura can't do it. They can feel fine until you take the bike off road, or have a bail, or tip it upside down, when the trapped air is released and gets into the system. Hopefully the following images will help...

Laaaaarrrrvley!

Is it just the pedal thread you have damaged? It can be repaired. This is your best option at the moment.

If the tyre has no sealant in, it will never seal... If it's leaking out around the valve, sounds like that's coming from the join.

Looks like Mark mentioned it earlier, I'm just late to the party.

Ah ha. That may explain the links. Tubeless rims have the join sealed in some way. Full width tape may do the same job if you are lucky, but sometimes not. I've used these rims tubeless before and needed to stick a slug of araldite over the tyre side of the join.

Sounds like you are on the final stretch. Although... have you sealed the join in the rim? Non tubeless tyres and non tubeless rims will always be a lot of work to get set up tubeless. If you have sealed the rim join then its a case of riding them now, to get the sealant spread about. They will seal eventually, couple of weeks maybe.

Tensile bash! Bolts through the holes in the bash, clamp bolts in vice, use a pipe over the crank arm to rotate / release.