AdamR28

I thought that was pretty cool. I wish they'd translated more of the dialogue though, I wasnt able to get most of it. Still, worth a watch :)

James - Laid :)

Good point... Brisa = 28.6mm Echo/most Onza = 31.8mm Koxx = 25.4mm (standard)

5 degree rise Mr Oli (Y) Stem Not heard of any failing yet, theyre a very reliable stem, forged construction.

Main reason is that i've not built many wheels with Bulbs yet - its all very well using a spoke calculator, but i wanna make 100% sure the lengths are correct, so prefer to use my own experience for the lengths. Having said that, i'll be updating it soon with lenghts for more hubs/rims. Cheers, Adam

http://67.18.150.170/~tartybik/tart/tartyb...mage=spokes.gif :("

Just a little pic i knocked together and a small update: http://www.tartybikes.trials-shack.co.uk/t...ecomparison.jpg It appears (from trying to fit my old forks yesterday) that the reason for the higher bars (15mm higher) on the proto frame is that its head tube is 15mm longer! Other than that, the wheelbase is a smidge longer, the top tube appears to follow a higher line, and the reach is a tad longer. I had a bit of a (street) ride last night, and quite enjoyed it. As expected, even with 400g heavier forks than im used to, it sits on the back wheel very nicely. As Ben said, sidehopping appears easier, and I also got the hang of backwheeling quite quickly. Gapping/upping to front wheel is very very nice, the high BB puts you more over the front axle and the bike seems to just float up! Back wheel gapping is very strange at first - the bike feels very light due to it wanting to fire the back end through, but with a small change in technique (not as much pedalling force and more body movement) I could gap as far as on my standard Rex. Next up - natural, where im expecting it to shine :(

100mm :( Everything standard uses this - Road bikes, MTBs, BMXs

Its not as if thats good though! Check through the pages, the castle amination thing is still there...

So, when you try to do the bolts up, the hub doesnt spin. I've got one right here. You just use the tensioners i described for it.

Your bike shop is retarded - put the tensioners on the outside of the dropouts... Or snap the pins off the axle spacers (less recommended, haha)

There are two small threaded holes down by your dropouts. You can screw small bolts in there, then use snail cams (pushing against the heads of the bolts) to tension your chain. Or... 10mm BMX-style chain tugs, like the ones which come as standard on the bike will fit.

http://www.trials-shack.co.uk All the info you need is on there (Y)

I think these guys are on about Middleburn style ones Aust, rather than simple 'discs' for UCI setups (Y) An example of Mr. Potts' work: Any shape/size can be made - thats just an exampe of a before/after bashring :blink:

http://images.google.co.uk/images?q=adam+read&hl=en Haha, theres a piece of coursework I did at uni aaaggeess ago in there! (3rd down on the right) Hmm, someone did a really bad job of compressing the picture :P

Well, it'd use a custom stem, like this one does. I reckon, since bar heights vary from around 37-41" (approx guess, in relation to the ground, on a 'normal' frame), you could have a 50mm (2") BB rise or drop, and it still feel 'normal' to a certain rider. However, people with low bars normally would be those with higher BBs (generally). I had a point... oh yeah, basically, i reckon anything more than 20mm BB rise needs a different stem.

Hopefully this will be of some use: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=47418

Best get in touch with the man himself... (Y)

They are still in prototyping, we will be getting some when they are released (Y) Kotov's English is pretty good if you wanna contact him in the time being (Y)

http://margo.student.utwente.nl/el/microwave/ Google = your friend!

The brakes are Martas (Y) And yes, thats right, theyre about £40 (Y)

And we stock them at... well... less than that.

I managed to get all of it, dont have sound here at uni though... Anyway, sweet riding - the rocks were pretty tricky that day (Y) Small thing about the vid - i think it would flow better if you faded between clips rather than fading out to black and then back in again. It'd also mean the clips take up less time (so better file size for same quality, or better quality for same file size). Might be worth working out how you can do that... what editing software are you using?

Its the same process, apart from you pull the old sleeve out*... *only possible on some models of brake - send it back to Hope if in doubt (Y)

Was just about to say that - I've been ripping them away, haha