forteh

I'm one of those crazies

If that's the case then a copper tube drill would still achieve the cut, copper work hardens and such a tube drill would certainly be hand worked to make it. Introduce a cutting medium and you would do what you're saying has happened through abrasion rather then cutting. Yes the cutters will wear down but it's a consumable and a new one would be made to suit, any remaining copper from worn cutters would be resmelted. Work ethic doesn't apply when you're working under the whip for the person/god figure that you worship

That's more like it In the current era (discounting multiple axis cnc machinery): - You want a circular hole to be square bottomed (to properly support an inserted dowel), this isn't possible with a conventional fluted drill, the only way to achieve this is with a flat bottomed cutter such as a slot drill. The circular rebate would be milled using a dividing head and a T slot cutter. The axial grooves could be cut with a little ingenious use of a shaper or a broach. In a previous era: - Rough the hole out using a rotating rope arbour (as I mentioned above) to the nominal dimensions then use a copper tube saw to cut the last few mm (or slightly undercut in this example) to achieve your square internal corner. The rebate would be made in much the same way as with current machine tools, except instead of rotating the workpiece on a dividing head have the vertical arbor on an adjustable eccentric - cut out to the right diameter and then rotate the eccentric. Obviously the depths of the cuts would have to suit the cutting tools available but that's only a case of time and repeating the same operation. Rough out with rope and slurry then take a finishing cut with copper edged tooling. Either way it's just basic principles of pocket machining. The axial grooves are easily put in with either a reciprocating wood/slurry tool or chiselled out (which I suspect is far more likely).

It's not meant to impress you, just some evidence that I am infact technically minded despite what you might think (having never met me). I will happily admit that I'm not particularly academic and that there are people far more intelligent than myself. I've seen rope cut iron, I would love to hear your technically informed opinion on how to do it rather than regurgitating youtube videos

I've been working on machine tools from 6 years old, started technical drawing at 10, rebuilding engines from 11, 20 years working part time on victorian fairground ride, degree in mechanical engineering and almost 19 years as a mechanical design engineer cleaning your shit (sewage treatment for what it's worth). Not technically minded at all.

Copper/wooden disk, edged with rope run in slurry. Come on, work harder than that. Look inside your box, all the answers are there....

Rope cutting is a perfectly logical explanation as to how the stones were cut, add a slurry of sand and water, put 10 men on each end and have them pull either way. Hey presto a long, straight, accurate cut. Circular cuts would be done in the same way, wrap rope around a vertical arbor till you have the right diameter, add slurry, add slaves, rinse, repeat. To say that we know nothing of rope cutting stone is bollocks. Large and accurate is no issue when you have a rope 100 foot long and how can you quantify what feed rates they used (astonishing or otherwise)? Perhaps I shouldn't have said that they would have rotted away, more accurately they would have worn away and a new section length of rope then used. Moving the stones around was by boat and and sledge/water/sand, plenty of evidence already for this. Lifting the stones up the pyramid was via temporary ramps, examples of the type of block and wall construction are at Giza.

That's probably because the hemp ropes and wooden frames used to cut the stones would have rotted away; stop thinking everything was cut using copper chisels, that's a closed minded view on it in my opinion

Are heatsink yellows with a grind ok? Asking for a friend

I'm only on an old dk2 and really only playing elite in vr but I'm the same, the depth and immersion is phenomenal so no going back to flat screen! A bit more uncomfotable in this warmer weather though, my computer cupboard isn't much below 30°C when using the pc at the moment

Still prefer VR

Can't help on the sizing because I'm more whippet than st bernard Have you actually looked at proper riding kit? It's cut longer in the back so it doesn't ride up. My endura kit is very good, comfy for hours and not stupid expensive; my humvee 3/4 shorts are coming up to 10 years old now I think and whilst worn a bit on the seat are still perfect. I have a couple of fox riding shirts in circulation, lighter, better ventilation and dry out quicker compared to tshirts. Pick stuff up cheap on ebay/pinkbike if you're not fussy.

Freehub bearings still intact? Cassette spacer rings collapsed? Aliens?

That's effectively what the trek knock block is, there are keys on the stem and special headset spacers that interface with a specific headset top cap. The top cap has an annular groove that stops against a little block that is bolted to the top of the top tube. You would need to mechanically key it to the stem or steerer tube, clamping friction wouldn't be enough.

Speak for yourself, I would have been in my 20s

Could implement something like Treks knockblock to stop over rotation of the bars in the event of a crash I'll still stick with all external cables and hoses though!

Cricket!

Took the new board for a couple of hours with Reuben this afternoon, holy f**ksticks the wax makes it scary fast! At first it rode like a dog, couldn't initiate smooth toe to heel edge turns without the edges biting with no warning and spitting me into the snow. Fiddled around with binding position and angle, got more weight forwards, detuned the corner edges with a file and shifted the high backs forwards and suddenly the board has come to life, turns gliding from edge to edge without any dramas The board seems really nice to ride, flexes easily between the bindings to give easy turn control and pops really well. On the rental boards attempts at ollies were sketchy and unstable, the palmer just lofts and lands without effort. Unfortunately by the time I'd got the setup somewhere close I was getting tired and making silly mistakes. Cue a fast toe edge to heel edge catch which smashed me headfirst down the slope on my back. Going to be very sore in the morning

For my 40th last month it was decided by the stepson that I should learn to snowboard (mainly so I can take him to the snowdome more often!). Did a learn to snowboard in a day course, ached lots but picked it up pretty quick. I accidentally a snowboard and bindings, also accidentally a pair of boots, grand total of 50 quid and the boots were unworn The board is a 152 Palmer Proto, about ten years old I think but should get me right to start off. The bindings are Burton cfx of similar vintage and they're super comfy. Just started servicing the board, made a file jig at work to sharpen the edges and clean up some oxidation and spent the last 20 mins ironing hot wax into the base. A learning curve but rather therapeutic so far Taking Persephone for her first kinder lesson on Saturday (she's 4 now) and going for a couple of hours lift pass with Reuben next week. Anyone else play around with planks of wood?

Laser cut parts for the pedal car came in today, was given a budget of 500 and so far the build is below 300 with a bit of sponsorship wrangling

Also possibly look at standard bykes, they make BMX primarily but I know they have done 24 and 26 so a street trials rig could be possible. Quality second to none

@Brettoll, see below! https://www.pinkbike.com/news/sick-bicycles-manufacturer-selling-off-sick-branded-frames-claiming-lack-of-payment.html

They're pretty active on bookface, the deema (I still have mine) was 600 for the frame when it was released back in 2006; they've branched out a bit and are making really nice kit (not that the deema isn't but the current quality is far nicer) and have shown bikes at NAHBS for the past couple of years. edit: they won best cx bike at NABHS 2018 https://www.nahbs.com/2018-winners

Haha you gimp edit: incase @Brettoll doesn't know, Sick are a pair of hipsters with really bad social media attitude and no clue how to make frames, they promised the world, employed and pissed off a number of frame builders (the latest being marino who is now selling off their unpaid for stock of frames to recoup costs), never delivered on any promises and are suffering the wrath of the internet cycling community

Triton edit: couldn't comment on how reasonably priced they are mind, or even if they still make trials frames; that said they do a whole range of custom bikes so don't see why they shouldn't.