MadManMike

The whole engine? Fook that. If that engine has to come out again, I'm sending Red to Eunos heaven.

So, on the troubleshooting front, I'm looking for more ideas just in case the plan fails tonight. As per original post, the starter sometimes gives one click but goes no further. Battery is OK. We will try and push start it to see if the starter is jammed and if that doesn't work, we'll replace the starter with my old one. If that doesn't work, any other ideas on what else we can check? Earth point that was the suspect has been checked and I believe is only on the 1.8, not the 1.6.

Yep same spec as the original. We swapped the engine 2 years ago and it was in worse condition than the original one, so I've been on the hunt for a decent one. A lot of the parts, like engine mounts, were new with the other engine so didn't need replacing. My friend is keeping the old engine to rebuild and fit into an old Mini

Spent all weekend working on my car with some mates - engine cranes, ciders and food. Got the new engine all painted and it looks awesome, fitted polybushes on the steering rack, replaced a load of gaskets on the front, rear and manifolds. Managed to get the new engine in, replace gearbox seal & oil, topped up with coolant (Twice, as my mate put the inlet gasket on wrong and it all pissed out...). Tried to fire it up and sprayed fuel everywhere (Same mate decided to mash the o-ring on injector 2 when re-fitting). We got as far as the starter doing one click and nothing else, which I suspect is a missing earth at the front of the engine - battery is good so it's not that. I'll try and locate the earth point and fit that, if no luck I'll use the starter off the old engine. It's a bit frustrating as the car is over in Wales, so I need a lift over to work on it again... I could take the BMW, but that doesn't really solve anything as Red will still be stuck over there even if she runs Anyway, almost there...

How many people are in the team? Skinnier, slicker tyres mate, as little resistance as possible

That is awesome. Bet it's fun to ride / drive!

You might want to post this in the main trials area, this section is "Bike Chat" not related to trials riders... you'd get a better response in trials chat probably. Most of the people in this section are MTB riders, myself included

Weird that you should comment on this now, I saw a TA26 at a pump track in Bristol last night... What are the chances of that?

A drilldo

Should have bought an MX-5 mate, people on the groups give those away Car is looking good, those red seats look awesome.

He's 2nd on the annoying smug face leaderboard (Farage of course takes the victory by a country mile) and I find his clown act tiresome, but given the fact that all the options seem a bit shite at the moment, I'll reserve judgement of his work until a later date. I do hope being PM means he can afford a haircut soon though.

I don't think all of these things fit into the same category though. There's undeniable evidence for the earth being round, climate change etc... Questioning what we've been taught from hundreds or thousands of years ago is perfectly fine, I think it's good to question things. Christianity is a good example of just believing what is handed down through generations... "Of course it happened it's in the bible!" - Yeah, except one bloke can't part the seas and walk through it, or magic up a shit-ton of wine. (Unless there's evidence of it, outside a book of stories written and modified many times). If there's 100% cast iron evidence, I'll believe it, but for me these ancient constructions with ridiculous tolerances are still something worth questioning. I'm not saying aliens built them, but modern experiments to recreate them with better technology haven't gone well, so for me it raises questions. Unlimited time and people helps, but does it provide the accuracy seen in some of these builds, given the primitive tools? I'm 50/50 on the subject. I do agree that some of the videos on YouTube express pretty crazy theories though. In short - I don't know for sure, but I'm interested and I'm all for questioning stuff unless it's been proven.

OK, not aliens. Took it apart a third time and the freehub fell off (Despite not moving when I pulled it earlier). Still weird, but problem found at least...

Well, f**ked if I can figure it out. Just had the cassette off, cleaned it up. All spacers are fine. No sideways play in the hub itself. Put the cassette back on, tightened it up, put the wheel back on and then bang... 2-3mm of movement again. Still sticking to the alien theory on this one.

Chain whip I ordered with next day delivery still hasn't shown up, so until that arrives, we'll just say aliens

I'm not massive on the shoulders, but have a bit of a belly. The size L TLD top was pretty long and had plenty more belly space, where other brands (Dakine for example) are a bit more hugging in that area. May have just been that particular top, but definitely worth a try.

Not sure if you're big on brightly coloured "full enduro" type stuff, but I've found Troy Lee Designs stuff to be way bigger than usual. I bought a large long sleeve jersey and it was massive, what I'd have called XXL to be honest. TLD stuff isn't cheap, but it's pretty good quality from what I've seen.

To add to this, I haven't loosened or tightened anything. Cassette hasn't been removed. Wheel was seated correctly each time (You can't seat it wrong, as it won't screw in if you do...) I really don't understand what's happened, it makes no sense.

Well, sometimes things happen and you wonder if you're tripping. In this case, I've taken the wheel off, again, and nothing moves. So, I refitted the wheel again to replicate the problem and guess what - nothing moves. I'm at a loss to explain why it had 2, 3 or even 4mm of play in it yesterday and absolutely none today. If anyone has any idea (Other than aliens), I'd be interested to hear it! Now, back to adjusting the gears again, which should work now that the cassette is staying where it should be!

Rear axle is a new one on me, it looks like 20mm, threaded on one side with an 8mm hex to tighten. The Cannondale had similar but it was quick release rather than hex. I'm trying to source a chain whip so I can take the cassette off, as for some reason I have every other tool but that... I need to check the hub and cassette, but can't do it until it's off. I'll report back

Most likely I guess is a collapsed spacer at the back, the cogs are all evenly spaced and move as a whole. Mashed up bearings would have more play than just side to side, wouldn't they?

Hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I have with my new build... Running a SRAM 10 speed cassette that I took off my Cannondale and transferred to my new Dartmoor. I should point out at this stage that the wheel is the same, the cassette was not removed from the wheel, I simply took the wheel off the 'dale and put it on the Dartmoor. When it was on the 'dale I had no issues with gearing, but since building the Dartmoor I've constantly been tweaking it and haven't been able to get it to shift smoothly or consistently - I found out why earlier: the cassette moves side to side, so if you get the gears spot on, the cassette can then move 2 or 3mm, which of course throws out the alignment of the rear mech. Now, obvious answer is to use a cassette spacer, but why would I need to use one now, when I never have before? They go behind the cassette, so surely if I need one to stop movement now, I'd have needed one when it was fitted to the Cannondale...? Is there anything more obvious that I've missed when building this bike?

Social media is a little different to being a dick in person though. If someone blocks me on Instagram I'd not really be that fussed, but I can see how being called a dick in real life could be hurtful (Personally I wouldn't be too bothered about that either, but I still get it)

Is it even car maintenance if you're not bleeding?

I was 20 something as well probably, but those posting pictures and making "those" comments were all younger.