nmt_oli

The guys the year above me got a number plate made up "P71 ICK" and attached it to a teachers lotus elise. was sighted over 50 miles away a few days later, still on the car! dunno how long it took him to notce. Our year someone caught a live pigeon, put it in a pigeon hole with food and water, then stapleguned chicken wire over the hole, so it had a nice little cage.

you need all the spacers in, as thats how you adjust the angle to make sure they sit flat with the rim. you will notice they are curved and fit into each other, theres a thin one and a thick one which can be swapped round to get the angle of the brake arms correct.

A booster and a HS33 lever will improve the brake most off all. The HS33 lever has a smaller master piston, so you will get more power (more pressure). You will then need the booster as the brake will cause flex due to the power. I love my ceramic rim, even if it is a bit narrow. Power AND modulation, and very consistent. runnign with plaz pads, but thinking of changing over winter as they are a bit slippy in the wet.

6mm is the rough outer diameter of the hose yes, the inner diameter is approx 2mm, but that makes no difference to anything (apart form volume of fluid and reaction time i suppose).

They are more expensive as the Tapers profile is harder to manufacture, it is a more complicated shape and has to be made to a higher tolerance than square taper cranks.

Thats for me to know and you to find out! all will be revealed when i source nessesary parts and get round to assembling it!

Where exaclty are you staying? and when will you be there. thats a damn good price for that time of year. Nick and I will be there 28th dec to 5th Jan (roughly). We will be staying in an apartment in Soldeu. Will you be staying in Soldeu, El tarter, or Pas de la Casa? and which hotel? might have to meet up lol.

Nick (Prawn) and I will be driving to Andorra with a few others this new year for a weeks skiing. I get discouted rates though, as my dads an instructor over there , and has a share in an apartment. Looking at doing the whole lot for £250per person (ferry, pertrol, ski hire, lift passes, accomodation) excluding food + going out. Might end up a little over that though. Unfortunately i dont think theres any space left in the discovery. expensive if you dont fill the car.

Cool. sounding good so far. Pete seemed to think mini lever master was 6mm- sounded way too small to me. The pro i could really do with knowing but i think my plan will work!

ahhhhggggg My head hurts

Indeed he claims he does (spoken on msn) but they don't sound right to me, so i want another source.

It is an idea, i dont need a completely precise measure, to the nearest mm woul probably do. and youl be surprised at who has what lying around! if i was at home i would be able to measure the C2 and mini slaves easily.

Indeed, i have all of those, but unfortuntely they do not list dimensions!

661 gloves are alright, i found mine very comfortable although didnt last quite as long as my kona ones. Maxxis tyres are my personal choice, and are favoured by many. Hansventure is nice for street due to dual compound, so longer wear life. Minion DH is popular, but a bit sticky and slow for street. Hi Roller is fast rolling, but at the sacrifice of some grip.

not quite sure what your meaning there to be honest, a sidehop across a gap would indeed work, and sidehopping then gapping to somewhere is a nice link of moves. But as to "and would a skippy on to a curb then straight onto a wall and into a abounded pool?" i don't have a clue what your on about im afraid.

If any one knows (for certain please) or can measure the following i would be very grateful. Diameters of: Master cylinder in Mini Lever Master cylinder in Pro lever Slave cylinders in C2 Slave cylinders in Mini Slave cylinders in Mono Trial Thank you very much!

Water can change state even within a sealed system, but wont evaporate in the sense that it will 'dissapear'. It would also need to get rather hot to change state. However, any air that was dissolved in the water when the brake was bled is likekly to come out of solution as different temperatures/conditions leaving you with a spongey brake.

You can buy the full magura hose kit of CRC, but not individual components of it, ie a single crossover. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1534

Pros: *If done correctly a superior lever feel is achieved *Debatably easier to get hold of/ cheaper (is arguable if you have no antifreeze, as it would take me the same time and same cost fto get antifreeze as it would some proper fluid) Cons: *Freezes if not enough antifreeze is used in winter *Needs to be re-bled every so often due to air coming out of solution (oil can be bleed and forget, 5 years plus) *Debatably increases wear inside the brake, i.e piston seals, as water has no lubricous properties. *Technically voids warranty

The ISIS interface is inherently stiffer, and allows for the use of a larger diameter axle to increase strength. Unfortunately however, the larger axle means there is less room for bearings, so in most situations the load capacity of the BBs are reduced, or they don't last as long, or both. Various methods have been devised to prevent this, such as the external bearing BBs, although the mentioned SKFs seem the best on the market at the moment. You are right about the actual taper causing problems over time. Square taper cranks work on a fully tapered interface, you can just keep going if the crank becomes slightly loose, wheres the ISIS taper has a much shallower angle, and actually has a stop, so unlike square tapers which you can keep forcing when the taper wears a little, the isis cranks push on and stop at a set point. If any play develops, which it can after a lot of use (accelerated by multiple removal of cranks) then there is no way of getting rid of it, the taper is permanently damaged. I've seen this happen to a few cranks, including middleburns. you undo the crank bolt and you can just slide the crank off, no need for an extractor. Square has been around almost forever, and i think it will have its place for a long time to come yet, its simple, cheap, universally known and easy to maintain. ISIS is a great solution for the more extreme ends of biking nowadays, which inherently have shorter lifespans on high stress parts such as cranks any way, so you may be able to justify the reduced longevity for the extra strength.

Thats a bit of a rash statement since pretty much EVERY bike product has been known to fail at one point or another, even king hubs. A lot of people now will not touch king hubs after bad experiences, and much rather be on hopes. Anyway: The king is nice, so is the pro 2, but to be honest both are likely to be out of your price range, the hope XC/mono is an old favorite, strong, easy to service, and last pretty well. not as quick to engage as pro2/king but will last well enough, and can be got 2nd hand easily too. Another good option atm, if you like single speed, is a DMR singlespeed hub with screw on ENO (or similar) freewheel.

Depends on the pads, hope will fibrax wont ect.

Ahh, someones used a split pin instead of the new style screw in, maybe they lost it. straighten the pointy end with pliers, then use pliers on the round end and just pull it out. pads should then easily come out of the caliper.

I wouldnt! My golf (mk2, 1.6 driver) has cost me at 19, as a new driver, no experience, no no claims, 1250 TPFT, lowest theft risk area too! should see it go down next year, but unsure of how much due to mods. Insurance is a bitch.

Easton bars do indeed rule. i would be running them, but runnign some single wall risers that i prefer the sweep on.