nmt_oli

Creakign when undoing bolts is normal, expecially if theyve been left a while and its two dissimilar metals. in furture, assemble them with a dab of grease ont eh threads. Prevents creaking and siezing, less likely to strip threads, have stuck bolts. Also allows you to get more accurate torque setting if you use a torque wrench.

Useful Stuff Archive Thread Hey everybody! I had a thought last night while posting in the angry thread, I’ve seen a lot of useful info/links etc posted on this forum (non bike related), now I know a search should bring most of it up- but it can be a pain. I thought a sticky would be a great idea, just to inform people and give them a reference. I posted a thing about how to deal with an epileptic fit in the angry thread, which not many people have experience with so I thought it would be good to let people know. I also remember threads about trying to get jobs and stuff, people wanting to know how to write a good CV etc. Anyway, hopefully that’s given you the idea. I will kick it off with what I posted about epilepsy, post up relevant stuff if you’ve got it, and give suggestions. If it gets stickied, all the useless posts can be removed later. How to deal with an epileptic fit: I know people don't tend to know what to do/panic so i will tell you what to do, you never know when you might need it: Don't Panic! If you panic, you can't concentrate and you might make stupid decisions, try and stay calm. If someone’s having a fit who isn’t known to be epileptic, call an ambulance IMEDIATELY as there’s definitely something very wrong. If they are known to be epileptic, only call an ambulance if it lasts longer than 2 minutes. Also, if you are going to be around someone who is for a while (ie on holiday or something), make sure you know there medication- some people need to have meds administered during a fit to stop it, this is usually only very extreme cases though, so its good to know how to do that! Generally, just make sure there away from anything that will hurt them, put something soft under there head (e.g. a jumper or something) and make sure they can still breath ok. Do not leave them, if possible stay with them. Afterwards they will be VERY tired and probably just want to sleep, which is fine- they may not even be able to get up, I know I’m physically incapable of walking after. Get them a glass of water and let them sleep/rest; maybe put them in recovery position. They should be ok after half an hour or so. Hopefully that’s a fairly informative post!

If you need any tools to help build it up, give me shout! ive brought a whole toolkit down with me lol! I can also do good wheelbuilds pm me your number, im in Rees hall btw.

Frenchy, Im unsure abotu tyres, but with rims, I would personally go for rhino lite rear, and single track front (like i have on my orange). tioga would be my 2nd choice for rear, but its up to you, there both good.

I got a nice selection of Ti bolts for a couple of bits on my bike, available coloured too. Lighter than SS, dont rust ever, stonger than Ali. Also got a pimp gold ali cassete lockring from the same site, will have to have a rummage.

I use a 15cm tube on a syringe, tube has barbed fitting fitted to screw into slave. also a 25cm tube with correct barbed fitting for lever which i route into a conainer to catch the fluid. If your using tap water make sure its setled to get all the air out of it, this is one reason i like using oil, it doesnt dissolve air. the air dissolved in water may come out of solution when in your brake due to changes in pressure/temperature. This will mean you have a spongey brake again.

If your sending it to king in US, better off just sending the hub. Less on postage, easier for them to fix it (so prob quicker), and you know what quality wheel build you've got when you build it up again.

Very odd, heres my bleeding preference for maggies, and has worked very well, others may have other methods. 1)Leave the brake on the bike 2)Stand bike up, preferably in a workstand of sorts. 3)Wind TPA all the way in 4)Fill syringe with fluid of choice, and connect to SLAVE CYLINDER, NOT LEVER. make sure there is no air in when you connect it, have fun doign the doctor style squirt. If there is still a bubble point the syringe downwards so it stays in the syringe. 5)Connect bleed tube to lever 6)Pump away, tap the slaves/lever a couple of time with a spanner or similar to free air bubbles 7)Undo bleed tube, replace bolt making sure no air gets in- keep squeezing slightly if nessesary. 8)Remove syringe, top up the hole with fluid before replacing bolt 9)Wipe up all done.

True, the one thing that i have noticed is that hope calipers trap a lot of air. Will have to try that sometime. I am tempted to get the hope bleed kit after using an easy bleed on my car, It pressurises the brake system so you just open the nipple and let it flow till your done, so quick and so easy, plus the extra pressure will help get out stubborn trapped air.

Actually, no! The materials and processes used in manufacture make a huse different to a disks performance. If the rotor uses a low grade stainless, it will not wear well, be uneven and patchy in terms of bite. this is due to inconsitencies in the grain of the metal, and the inconsistencies in the make up of the alloy- steel is not a pure metal, its an alloy of Iron and Carbon. Also, if a rotor is pressed (ie apollo rotors), not cut (like hopes), it will perform relatively badly. It means the rotor is not perfectly flat, and distorts the grain near all the edges, again detrimenting performance. Although pressed rotors are found on only the cheapest brakes, and easy to spot as you can see the rounded edges. The reason for needing the rotor to be uniform to produce uniform friction is to do with how the friction actually occurs between the pad and the rotor. Its dynamic friction, as the pads /disk are moving in relation to each other, so the friction coefficient is never going to be perfectly equal at all times, but the more uniform the rotor, the more uniform the friction is likeyl to be. this may also help explain it, quote from "grinding disk rotors" thread:

As far as i remember, the double walls are known to cracking/failure in stress intensive uses such as trials/jumping. I believe, but not 100% sure, its to do with them flexing more, the two walls move past each other when they flex kinda thing. the inner wall cracks first, and they start to creak, then due to being much weaker, the outer goes too. As the inner wall goes first, you dont get the warnings signs of normal single walls such as stress risers, as you can't see them.

One word: History

Out of interest Pete, do you really find bleeding a hope from the bottom up to make much of a difference than the other, more conventional and hope recommended, top down way? Its just i find the conventional way much easier as you do not have to remove the brake, there is much less mess (no fluid coming out the resevoir, just the tube on the nipple) and therefore quicker. i have also never had a problem with it. Why do you believe it produces a better bleed?

the thing is, the hope hose makes it much easier to connect to the lever end as you can get the hope fitting. magura hose is thinner than hope hose, so doesnt work as well, although std hope hose is IMO better than maggie hose, braided best off all.

that is one damn sweet jump spot!

Not nessesarily pete, while that one very possible explaination, it could be flex, either from bad setup or lack of booster. If your pads dont hit the rim sqaure, they will compress more, and if you have no booster your forks are likely to flex. If your on old style evo mounts, dont use the quick release bit for the booster (unless you really need it) bolt the booster down. Also ensure the plastic elbows are properly against the forks. EDIT: just noticed, you didnt actually specify your brake, we have just asumed magie rims brake. If you have a disk, specify which one so we can advise correct bleeding procedure. you may also need to get your disk mounts faced, if ithe caliper is not square over the rotor, that can cause spongyness.

Pompey ride- aaaayyy! Havent ridden pmpey for a while, and now live here! so better come out! Tempted to order my new bits off tarty now so there here in time, but have very little money

Is there actually anything wrong with your current brakes, why do you need to keep rebleeding? you should be able to bleed them and leave them, and not need to touch them for a long time. A lot of people also prefer the older lever. Might be best to see if theres an easy fix, ie damged hose/olive letting air in the system, or possibly poor bleed technique, there are plenty of very comprehensive guides on here- just search.

Those wheels are mint! I saw some on an A3, all standard and all about a month back and thought how nice they would be on a mk2- the pepperpot style looks like my origonal steels, which is cool. Do you have to run 5 bolt adaptors? by the looks of it, the adaptor/spacer is needed to correct offset too.

The NBX is much better suited to front use, especially if you get the lighter not gumwall 2.1" version. the tread isnt really suited to rear trials use though, better off with a maxis.

Advise required: Ceramic D521 rim, Magura, what pads for wet weather? I have plaz CRMs, and there mint in the dry, but scary in the wet, even though its deosnt take long to dry them off. considering: koxx blue/green heatsink blue are there any better options?

the pig headset with big bearings is crazy, had one in my jump frame for 3 years, ands its still mint! hope or king are very well built, butpossibly not as good for trials as they arente designed to be load bearing in that way, so bearings are more likely to fail. they are lighter and pimper though.

EDIT: Prawn posting under my account that bt proto was the worlds nicest frame for sure dave! the bars do look a tad high, but its because the BB is actually a little high, it sits around 27mm above the rear axle, and 31mm above the front axle..... so i guess the BB rise averages out to 29mm! so i whacked 15mm of spacers under my stem. had a little ride in salisbury last night,and it feels INCREDIBLE, the more trialsy setup really suits me, and i absolutely love it!

I bought that player when my creative broke and i didnt think they would warranty it. amazing player, easy to charge, easy to transfer music, i didnt find freezing a problem, not quite as easy to use/navigate as creative- but its damn good value. nice size as well. I just like my creative as its a tad smaller, and usually easier to use, so when it was warrantied i gave this to my gf, and its still going strong, no durability problems- unlike my creative which may be on its way out again.

Sounds fine, mine goes higher and lower pitch too- never quite worked out why.