Mark W

Oi! 2-year-old + Fallguy proto forks. Not given a proper finish, and ask such the laquer came off like cling film at certain points :(

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=011LY2OA You love me, yeah, yeah, yeah. You love me yeah, yeah, yeah. Aaaaaaah the Beatles. Anyway, that's the original "Waynesgotnonuts" vid.

Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of them. They just don't look particularly high quality, and when you've got all CNC'd loveliness going on with the rest of the frame, it just lets it down a bit really. That and of course they're laquered over. Ah well, problems of ordering it before you've seen the final thing (although that was offset by the fact I got mine before anyone really knew they were in the country at all :)). Still rides awesomely :ermm:

Actually got a chance to ride mine in a trialsy way for an hour after work tonight :( Was a cold, drunk-person filled evening so it was a bit weird, but the bike's awesome. Can comfortably do my biggest sidehops to front, two, or back wheel, straight off. It's really confidence inspiring - you just want to go bigger and bigger. Didn't have my Xen though, so I didn't risk it. Upping to front is a bit strange at first, as the bike really dives over the front. Doing pivots and shit felt weird as hell at first 'cos you can have the bike loads steeper (well, steeper than the T-Pro) without going OTB. So for upping to front, you've got to rein it in a bit when you're committing to the front 'cos it's all too easy to try and force it up too much. Backwheeling-wise, it feels odd, but that's just 'cos my techniques shite at the moment 'cos I'm riding BMX, plus the front end's like 40mm longer than the T-Pro. Gaps are really nice, it just sorta flies. It's really nice on the back wheel. Just kicking to the edge of gaps, you've got to focus pretty hard on where you're going to 'cos it'll just go there. It's really precise, and feels solid to ride. For drops and the like, it's good too. It just has a really small, burly feel to it that just spurs you on. For natural, the extra mm'age in the wheelbase meant that for rock work it felt really good, just because of the stability it gave, and the fact you can bridge gaps more easily. Again, it just felt solid and precise. What DID surprise me though was the fact that it's pretty damn nice to bunnyhop, and I got a couple of ridiculously long manuals on mine :ermm: Not quite the same length as my BMX, but for a mod it was pretty shocking, 'specially with my back brake. Rides really, really well though, and I'm still not used to it. Can't wait 'til Sunday when I'll actually (shock horror!) not be working, so I'll be able to go ride it properly :)

Archive 1, sorry.

I think it was said that there was an issue with getting footage they could use due to sponsorship commitments (Akrigg had a coupla different bikes, for example), and other shit like that. I think it just got dropped...

Pics of my Zip lifted from the Zona Zip thread in Trials Chat... Cracked the blue T-Pro.

I need to, but I've gotta be back in work in 15 minutes, and I've got to finish my pizza, and actually get back to work :-

Yeah, same as BMX axles. They're called 3/8, but they sorta are 10mm, but they use metric-size nuts. Why?!

Not really the way it works, you cheeky bitch :lol: Ah well. I've always liked the look of the Caisso, it just looks awesome... Useful Post Alert :-

How happy am I? :- This frame is awesome. I've not had a chance to fully give it some beans 'cos I've not got my full compliment of bolts in my back brake, but it just feels really sort of stable. The back end is similar to what I'm used to (362mm, but that's with one slack ol' chain. Need to file my chaintugs down a little to get 'em back further), but the front's longer, and it just really balances the bike out nicely. Pics: Can't remember the exact order, but you all know your dropouts from your headtubes, so it should be fine...

http://www.cleanbikes.co.uk/Parts/Parts_BottomBrackets.htm 52.50 though. I would've put the pound sign in, but my keyboard has *totally* gone FUBAR.

Ben bought the one I've got in 2003/2004, so unless he went forward in time and bought this one as a 2005 one, it's unlikely to be different. Plus, like I said, I've read about htis happening before. I just hope it doesn't with my Zip, or I'm gonna be well f**kin' annoyed :rolleyes:

OK. I'll rephrase it. "I don't know why, but Truvativs don't fit in Montys and they haven't fitted in my T-Lite." This isn't up for speculation, they just don't fit. I even seem to remember someone saying something similar happened to them. But yeah, what about the Try-All Rip-Off BB?

Oh yeah, should've said earlier - you can't use Truvativ BB's in T-Lites. Or at least I couldn't in mine. Same as you can't use them in Monty frames 'cos they don't have a recessed central section and it fouls on the BB shell's excess metal bits, for some reason. Weird. Anyway, try getting another FSA I guess, just in case your's was faulty? If it doesn't work, you can still sell it on for a coupla quid less than you got it for, but if it DOES work you've said a loada wonga.

Yeah, but if all their clients have no BB's in, they're likely to get some in for them, as they're the main UK distro :rolleyes:

Chain Reaction Cycles

Can't find that as a station on thetrainline, so no can do sorry :rolleyes:

Right. First things first - your TPA is broken on your lever. That's the red knobby bit. The thread will have sheared. Go to the FAQ in Trials Chat, and look at the thread there about fixing Magura TPAs. It's a common thing, so don't worry too much about it. Secondly, you can "overfill" your Magura. To do this, bleed it as usual, BUT what you do is - keeping a full syringe attached by the slave cylinder and the end of the outlet hose by the lever submerged in a pot of your chosen fluid, pull the pads gently out by hand, so they pull the pistons out too. You don't want the pads off, just pull them a bit so there's a gap between the back of the pads and the main cylinder. If you get some card or a pair of screwdrivers, you can push them in the gap to hold them open. Then, do the final syringefull. This means you have more fluid in the system, so it means the pads start off further away from the cylinders, which makes them start closer to the rim :- That should sort you. If not, get some thicker pads, such as Heatsink Konigs/Honigs/whatever they're calleds from www.heatsinkbikes.com.

The T-Mag geometry is almost identi-macal to that of the T-Pro. Also, the T-Mag's downtube bash mount has been changed so it's got a gusset (like the T-Pro), meaning it won't punch through the frame like the old ones did. Will_Arnold went from T-Pro, T-Lite Long (like a T-Pro, but with shorter stays/longer front end) to T-Mag, so he'd be the guy to ask, if he sees this thread. Either way, the spec is amazing. You *could* try asking SuperCycles to do you a custom build (0115 941 11 33, info@supercycles.co.uk) so they specced a T-Pro frame up with the T-Mag 2 Spec?

:- Bitch! Nah, I'm getting a "limo" myself, in the form of a Zona Zip. Should be here 'werry, werry soon', to quote Kim Jong Il. Another 30-40mm on my WB. Interesting :rolleyes:

No tensioner, Todge? Act of God you've got decent chain-tension, surely :rolleyes: Or did you faff about with trying different sprocket combos to achieve your ratio?

That's what I like about my mod. I can throw it up 50" walls to back wheel, without a decent technique, just because you can muscle it round more. It just feels like you're more 'in control' as opposed to spread out across a freaking limo like the 1100mm WB stocks out there :-

Did those a few years ago (text on bottom one 'specially for Jon Granger). ProD's not so bad to use for frames, you just gotta be creative on stuff like chainstays, unless you do new workplanes and offset them at the right angle, etc.

I'm 6'2" and ride a 990mm wheelbase mod :-