duane Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 Hi, I have recently built a wheel with 26" try all rim on a Pro 2 hub, its nice and straight etc, but I am not sure what final tension I should be aiming for. Is there a rule of thumb I can use - something like by squezzing the spokes I should only be able to deflect the outer cross by 5,10,15,20 mm ? - currently I recon I get 12mm deflection. Thanks Duane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26inch Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 best thing to do is compare it to a well built wheel, make sure you comapre it a wheel the same size though as 20" tend to be able to run tighter spokes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manuel Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 tuning fork .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaRtZ Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 to be honest, I go as tight as possible without snapping them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Duck Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 tuning fork ....Anyone know where/if there is a cheaper one that the park tools one on crc? £50 is a bit much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manuel Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 Anyone know where/if there is a cheaper one that the park tools one on crc? £50 is a bit much.any music shop for like nothing .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casualjoe Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 to be honest, I go as tight as possible without snapping them? I tried that years ago, then when I tried to do a 6ft drop, 12 spokes snapped at the same time with a horrible noise...not advised Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 i tighten them till the nipples nearly snap sometimes, but usually i let them have a bit of slack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophe' Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 tuning fork ....to be honest, I go as tight as possible without snapping them? i tighten them till the nipples nearly snap sometimes, but usually i let them have a bit of slack.sorry , all wrong so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Smith! Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 sorry , all wrong so far.so u know ur just not going to help?Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henrik Y Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 I've re-spoked my wheel two times and tighten and adjusted them many times.If the spokes touches where they cross each other you can hear a knirking sound when the move then I tighten them a little more until it stops.I tighten the spokes on feel. I screw until I feel resistance then it gets heavy pretty fast, then I tighten it just a little more(about 30 degrees).After that I check that the wheel is straight and adjust it if needed. After some riding you will start the hear the knirking and then it's time to re-tighten the spokes. You may have to do that two times.It works fine for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophe' Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 read this......http://www.amazon.com/Art-Wheelbuilding-Re...s/dp/0964983532Dt swiss's top wheel building blokeyThe Bible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted October 21, 2007 Report Share Posted October 21, 2007 sorry , all wrong so far.how can it be wrong if my wheels have never failed me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason222 Posted October 21, 2007 Report Share Posted October 21, 2007 (edited) You have to make sure that when you tighten them up, you don't make the wheel go out of tru. I usually go around the wheel and check every spoke's tension,just take the two spokes that touch in the center and squeeze them together, and try to get them as even all around as possible. When it gets hard to turn each one, it's probably as tight as you should get it. I usually have less than 3 mm of movement between spokes. Edited October 21, 2007 by Jason222 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted October 21, 2007 Report Share Posted October 21, 2007 I have mine so when I squeeze a pair they don't move that much, like minimal movement?My wheels been fine too, done some drops and stuff, it's still round so yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.McMillan Posted October 21, 2007 Report Share Posted October 21, 2007 sorry , all wrong so far.how can it be wrong if my wheels have never failed me?I agree with ash there? what you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaRtZ Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 how can it be wrong if my wheels have never failed me?same. Never broke one of my own wheel builds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 I've re-spoked my wheel two times and tighten and adjusted them many times.If the spokes touches where they cross each other you can hear a knirking sound when the move then I tighten them a little more until it stops.I tighten the spokes on feel. I screw until I feel resistance then it gets heavy pretty fast, then I tighten it just a little more(about 30 degrees).After that I check that the wheel is straight and adjust it if needed. After some riding you will start the hear the knirking and then it's time to re-tighten the spokes. You may have to do that two times.It works fine for me.Careful with that dude, that sound you hear might be the spokes settling, which is a good thing. When you do up the nipples you also twist the spokes. The sound you hear is the spokes un-twisting and seating themselves better, and does not necessarily mean that you need to tighten your spokes more. When you build a wheel and are tightening the spokes you should periodically lie the wheel on its side, with the axle on the ground and push down fairly firmly. Work your way round your wheel with your hands opposite one another and you will hear the spokes untwisting themselves, then flip the wheel over and do it on the other side. Do this periodically and when you’ve finished because it sometimes takes the wheel slightly out of alignment. As to tightness, really it just comes with experience, but tight is not good, it puts too much pressure on the rim around the spoke hole which can start to crack and fail. Its hard to exmplain but just tighten it to a comfortable tightness where your not putting that much force into the nipple, and do this gradually working your way round the wheel because tightening nipples on one side will tension spokes on the opposite side.More info: http://www.bikewebsite.com/build.htmhttp://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.htmlhttp://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=howfix_truing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Garland Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 I usually go for 5mm maximum, then there is enough slack for sideways movement on hard landings yet enough tension to stop your wheel feeling floppy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 where they cross they should move 8-10mm, make sure they are even though thats more important, drive side should be more tentioned that the non drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henrik Y Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Careful with that dude, that sound you hear might be the spokes settling, which is a good....Hmm... I didn't think about that they un-twist but sounds true now when I think about it. But for me it have gone so far that I could re-tighten the spokes with my fingers and then they where moving a lot and was knirking against each other and when I pushed on them they moved up to a 1-2 cm. And then they where well tightened before I started riding the first time. So it can change a lot when they settle in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexymike Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Get a tension meterFront wheel should be 800ft/lbDrive rear should be 1200fl/lbnon drive should be 800fl/lbsorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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