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Threads Gone On Trialtech Cranks


ScottTrials

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Hi there, I was extremely pleased with these cranks but due to not having my bike set-up correctly I had to keep removing the freewheel to put spacers on so that it would not rub on my frame. So ended up heating the centre bit to expanded it to get it off and I think this cracked some of the threads on the cranks. I then went to gap to a curb on the way home from work and ended up on the floor, I origionly thought that it had skipped but then tried to pedal and it just kept spinning. I was using these cranks with a 3mm spacer from tarty and an ENO. Was thinking of getting a new pair of these as they feel really stiff compared to when I had my tensiles on my pitbull. With a bashring and a new freewheel. Then sell the ENO.

Any help/advice is highly appreciated.

Thanks Scott.

Edited by ScottTrials
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those forged cranks ( echo and trialtech ) seem pretty shite....most seem to strip or die at the splines. Id say go for some echo cncs and keep the eno. The real reason those cranks threaded is the slightly oversized thread that eno use

I will see what I'm aloud up to as I'm still paying my frame off, trying to stay away from deng to be honest. And not wanting to spend a bomb on cranks as like I said I'm still paying off my frame.

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I don't get where the spacers were going... If you kept removing the freewheel to put spacers in between the cranks and the freewheel you'd be reducing the amount of thread that the freewheel is able to use which would cause the thread to strip. But that can't be what you were doing because that would be moving it closer to the frame...

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I don't get where the spacers were going... If you kept removing the freewheel to put spacers in between the cranks and the freewheel you'd be reducing the amount of thread that the freewheel is able to use which would cause the thread to strip. But that can't be what you were doing because that would be moving it closer to the frame...

I started off with a 5mm and that was too big so I had to remove it and put a 3mm on instead.

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If you liked the trialtech cranks then stay with them but get a different freewheel due to the eno does have 1.375" x 24 tpi thread where as most other freewheels have 1.37" x 24 tpi which would not have helped with it stripping, if you want a serviceable freewheel then the new tensile is a good choice.

I have found the trialtech cranks very good, I had a sprocket on mine that was badly made and caused the thread to strip but luckly the sprocket was so rubbish that a can run them with a trialtech sprocket even with some material missing of the threads and have been for a couple of months.

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If you liked the trialtech cranks then stay with them but get a different freewheel due to the eno does have 1.375" x 24 tpi thread where as most other freewheels have 1.37" x 24 tpi which would not have helped with it stripping, if you want a serviceable freewheel then the new tensile is a good choice.

I have found the trialtech cranks very good, I had a sprocket on mine that was badly made and caused the thread to strip but luckly the sprocket was so rubbish that a can run them with a trialtech sprocket even with some material missing of the threads and have been for a couple of months.

Thats what I was thinking as these are the cranks that some of tarty are using. If I am correct. So if I go for what I said by getting new cranks and a tensile ffw and a trialtech half-bash. Also could some tell me if this would give me enough clearance on a try-all 127.5mm bb.

so the eno doesnt conform?

Aparently not as it has 'oversized threads' 1.375 x 24 tpi thread compared to the cranks that have 1.37 x 24 tpi threads.

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  • 5 months later...

who else out there runs trialtech cranks with ENO free wheel?

im just wondering cause ive been using mine trouble free for about a year now,and recently heard of this combination stripping.

how many cases is there?

I would imagine very few, if you've been running it trouble free for a year then i wouldn't worry at all (Y)

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I would imagine very few, if you've been running it trouble free for a year then i wouldn't worry at all (Y)

the reason i ask is because i got another set of the same cranks and Eno and went riding today and after 4 hours the crank stripped.

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those forged cranks ( echo and trialtech ) seem pretty shite....most seem to strip or die at the splines... The real reason those cranks threaded is the slightly oversized thread that eno use

I don't really get that - you're saying the cranks are 'shite' because they strip, then point out that they strip because the freewheel is made over-sized. If the freewheel is over-sized, how is it the fault of the cranks if they strip? If you use any over-sized thread on there then they're liable to go (e.g. poor quality screw-on sprockets) - there's not much Trialtech themselves can do about that, is there? If certain companies don't make standard items, then you can't really account for it.

AFAIK, almost all the stripped Trialtechs we've had back have been as a result of Eno usage. That said, there've been very few returned to us. None of them have been the splines stripping either, which can only realistically happen if you don't keep your crank bolts tight. Again, if you can't maintain your bike that's not the fault of the crank...

For what it's worth, I'm running 175 Trialtech ISIS cranks on my mod (and have been for a while), and 170s on my 24, both of which have been fine. Running one with a TR freewheel and Trialtech ti halfring, and one with an SL freewheel and a Tarty bash.

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I've been using Trialtech's with an Eno for over a year with no problem at all. I did however strip the pedal threads on a set of Echo Forged's before that but it was most likely my own fault for not checking pedal tightness frequently enough.

As far as value for money goes I really don't think you can beat the TT's.

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I don't really get that - you're saying the cranks are 'shite' because they strip, then point out that they strip because the freewheel is made over-sized. If the freewheel is over-sized, how is it the fault of the cranks if they strip? If you use any over-sized thread on there then they're liable to go (e.g. poor quality screw-on sprockets) - there's not much Trialtech themselves can do about that, is there? If certain companies don't make standard items, then you can't really account for it.

AFAIK, almost all the stripped Trialtechs we've had back have been as a result of Eno usage. That said, there've been very few returned to us. None of them have been the splines stripping either, which can only realistically happen if you don't keep your crank bolts tight. Again, if you can't maintain your bike that's not the fault of the crank...

For what it's worth, I'm running 175 Trialtech ISIS cranks on my mod (and have been for a while), and 170s on my 24, both of which have been fine. Running one with a TR freewheel and Trialtech ti halfring, and one with an SL freewheel and a Tarty bash.

i understand what your saying.

the point im asking is why would ones set strip and another set not.when the cranks,free wheel and bashie are all the same? one used for 4 hours and one used for 1 year?

how good are the Echo SL?i dont trust deng stuff much. with the power i have would the SL last?i can distroy brand new kool chains in 30mins,the plates seperate off all pins, the pins shear and the plates shear.Ive tryed a few free wheels and the ENO is the only one thats lasted and now i find out its not compatable with every trials crank.

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Ali's been using the same SL freewheel for over a year (since they first came out) and his hasn't broken or even skipped yet. Bearing in mind about 4-5 months of that was brakeless too, which is all about pure power in your drive-train, you should be fine with it. We've sold a lot of those freewheels and haven't had a single issue yet. I'd definitely recommend them. It's the freewheel we all run at work, and all of them work flawlessly, they just feel loads better than the 'normal' 108 freewheels, or even most other companies 72 or 60 click models.

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Ali's been using the same SL freewheel for over a year (since they first came out) and his hasn't broken or even skipped yet. Bearing in mind about 4-5 months of that was brakeless too, which is all about pure power in your drive-train, you should be fine with it. We've sold a lot of those freewheels and haven't had a single issue yet. I'd definitely recommend them. It's the freewheel we all run at work, and all of them work flawlessly, they just feel loads better than the 'normal' 108 freewheels, or even most other companies 72 or 60 click models.

A bit of a null point but I'd reckon brakeless puts less stress through the FW as there's more rolling engagement than pure preload and stamp on the pedals sort of technique

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There's still a bit of stamping, but I'd imagine that the amount of pressure you have to pretty much constantly put through your chain would be pretty savage on them. 'specially riding natural, the only way you can get around is by holding all your weight on your pedals to reposition your bike (if that makes sense). Whenever you're setting up for sidehops or gaps on the back wheel it's all pure pressure too. It's not the same as people just booting it all the time, but your chain's under sustained pressure for virtually the entire time you're riding. I haven't seen Stan snap a chain before, but he snapped one riding brakeless the other day.

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