Mark W Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 The cheap Cyclo ones are fine. The stiff-link plates snap off easily, but the rest tend to stay in place... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kells Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Well i've already got a park one but my chain's too wide for it. Its a KMC chain, do you think this tool will work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Cheaper. Better. Effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kells Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Cheaper. Better. Effective.Ok thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 righty - mark has inspired me to go to smaller cogs (i've also got money to burn and the trials bike is finished) anyway. I don't know if i'll get away with 28-10 on my frame cos i've got chainstay mounted brakes - (not that im running a brake but just in case I get gay and decide to put it back on I'd like to know it'll work)soo, if a nice kind person could go measure their 28 tooth chainring and tell me the diameter i'd be most appreciative. or if i can get an idea of how much the chain will drop if I were to change it'd be good. ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 I worked mine out earlier on by assuming that there had to be half an inch between each tooth, so multiplying that gap by the amount of teeth, then dividing by Pi. I think it worked out as 4.5" or so, but I'll go check mine out now. If you want to check it out on your bike now though, for every tooth lost from the front sprocket the top run of chain will move down closer to the chainstays (or brake boss) by 0.08” ie.3 teeth causes a drop of about ¼”. Get yo' ruler out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 maths n that...oh jugs. that's 28-10 out the window then. I have precisely 1 inch between my chain and the top of the brake boss with 39-14. I could probably do 30-11 that's one for the FAQ thingy then you probably can run 30-11 on a federal division frame (euro BB version) with a brake but you probably wouldn't get away with 28-10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted August 13, 2006 Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Hey everyone, im starting getting into this bmx stuff a bit more..I havent been running pegs on my bmx for a while now as I never used them. I now think the times right to put them on and try some grinds, Ive only got the standard heavy as f*** pegs but I think they will do. Ill be putting them on the right so im wondering is it worth putting my cranks on the other side? Also are there any simple modifactions I can do to my brake to increase its power? Ive got some old skool shimano dx levers, wondering if putting those on would make much difference (got standard crap levers)Thanks,DaveOne of these: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted August 13, 2006 Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 Also what pegs do people recommend? I want something light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Those levers will work okay with a Ubrake on short pull setting (I ran them about 10 years ago on my old bmx) but there's no hinged clamp so they're gay and the fixing bolts will cut your thumbs to ribbons in no time. I'd go for a bmx specific lever really- dirty harry is fine, monolever is finer. Not that you should be running brakes at all mind.If you're running a big sprocket - 36-39 tooth you will hit it when you start grinding - whether you're running it on the left or the right. Left is definitely safer but it's still going to get smacked on those over-kinked feebles If you've got the necessaries ie. compatible cranks and hub then definitely go LHD but if not then I'd say getting a bashguard and/or a f**koff beefy chain (tank or bog chain) would sort you out.Choosing pegs - I don't see much point in forking out loads of cash on something you're deliberately going to drag along concrete ledges so I don't hold with £70 Ti pegs. With that in mind, I like the look of the shadow conspiracy lean/mean pegs - the odyssey GI ones look pretty good too. You just want something really simple and fairly cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Thanks for the help. I dont see why my cranks wont go on the left hand side. Im thinking of just turning my wheel round and obvisouly swopping the cranks and chain over. When you say the fixing bolt do you mean the clamp bolt on the lever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Would swopping my standard brake pads for some Odyssey 1 by 4's (or 2 by 4's cant remember what weve got in work) make much difference? Ive just got a standard alaex rim (black sidewalls but its mostly come off)Thanksdave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 Thanks for the help. I dont see why my cranks wont go on the left hand side. Im thinking of just turning my wheel round and obvisouly swopping the cranks and chain over. When you say the fixing bolt do you mean the clamp bolt on the lever?thats exactly the bolt I mean. mine tore me to shreds.You can't just flip the crank over because your pedals will unscrew themselves. you need LHD compatible cranks eg. My powerbites have a sprocket fixing thingummy on both arms to allow you to run LHD or RHD, your cranks either will or won't have such a thing - if not you're buggered unless you can come up with a way to stop the pedals unscrewing.you're right - the hub should be ok cos you can get LHD freewheels for both thread sizes (odyssey ones suck arse though so don't buy one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Clark Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 You'd need to get a new LHD freewheel/hub because if not it would engage when you pedalled backwards not forwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted August 18, 2006 Report Share Posted August 18, 2006 erm. I need some sort of protection for my (now quite badly dented ) right chainstay. I've only had the bugger a couple of months and at the rate I'm going I'll have snapped the back off before winter if i dont do something about it.I can't see one of those lizardskin cloth jobbies doing much good (plus they're far too gay for bmx ) so I was wondering if anyone knew whether I could get a metal or hard plastic one from anywhere. I guess I could get a plate welded on but thats hassle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 Would swopping my standard brake pads for some Odyssey 1 by 4's (or 2 by 4's cant remember what weve got in work) make much difference? Ive just got a standard alex rim (black sidewalls but its mostly come off)ThanksdaveBUMP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 It'll possibly make a bit of difference, but alu rimmed...um...rims don't really seem to deal too well with anything other than stickier trials pads. Saving your money from the pads (and getting a little more) and getting a chrome rim would probably make a difference, and set you up with a better platform to get a better brake on Chromes rims can be had for mad cheap now, so just scope it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theone2be Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 I might be buying a second hand Odyssey Hazard hub with a 12T cog. If i wanted to, at a later date, change to a 10T is this what i would need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 Yes indeedy, but if you go through Pijin it'll be £27 and free delivery, not £30 + £3 delivery Their site's down at the moment though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskimo Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 I just found this....Also, why when I spent hundreds on brake parts to make sure they were decent they were crap?I had hulahoop chrome rimsevolver brakes front and rearslic cables (tried nokon at one point!)tech 77 leversand plazmatic spanish fly padsIt was still utter crap, I could barley skid! And yes my rims and pads were clean, I used muck off, a clean rag, even wore latex gloves to not get any fingerprints on the rims for gods sake!!thats probably the main reason why I quit bmx, I have no confidence if my brakes are crap.Your brake should of been good. It's hard to explain why it didn't work. But ill explain it with the example of a magura. The pads on a magura have a certain limit where they can only push out so far. If the pots aren't close enough to the rim it will appear that the pads touch the rim (just). But as the pots are so far out they can't push the pad any harder into the rim as they are already pushed as far as they will go. So therefore no real friction or power. Same principle on a U brake. Did you try changing the pad spacers round? This would have helped in giving more power. The same problem can happen with a vee brake as well.Sorry about my lack of explanation. I understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew_Gibson Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 Can anyone point me in the direction of some half decent tryes, for a bmx? My younger bro keeps on getting flats. Thats with 60 PSI in too! I don't wana spend more than £15 MAX. PM with the link, as I never look in here. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 too lazy to pm i'll get ripped for this but...gusset pimps in black (the same as the pink ones but black) seem absolutely fine to me - £13 a pop, will take 100+ psi, roll forever, tread goes all the way round so they dont fall apart when grinding and they have a lovely round profilewon't stop him pinching though, you need to get some scholl foot powder and fill the tyre up with that. I did mine a few months ago (both trials and bmx) and haven't had a flatty since (as opposed to one every time i go out) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 You can just use ordinary talcum powder as opposed to expensive foot stuff to do that too.The Fly Ruben tyres pwn to be fair. You may also wanna get him to check the rim-tape's covering all the holes fully, that there's no sharp bits inside the edge of the rim, and that there's no thorns still in his tyre or whatever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 talc makes your bike smell like a girl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 What kind of strange, smell-releasing tyres do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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