RobinJI

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RobinJI last won the day on October 18 2016

RobinJI had the most liked content!

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About RobinJI

  • Rank
    Too Much Spare Time
  • Birthday 06/15/89

Contact Methods

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    Ringwams@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Mountain biking, old cars.. other stuff...
  • Location
    Taunton

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
    Somerset
  • Real Name
    Robin Ingram
  • Bike Ridden
    None
  • Quick Spec
    Not a lot anymore. Still got a MTB though.
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. It largely depends what you mean my learning to drift. If you're going to do about 2 drift days then get whatever you're into. If you're wanting to get properly into it, and you still need it as a daily, every friends experience suggests that a bmw won't give you any issues, and an s-body will get you addicted to them, but fairly quickly have you renting a workshop to store and fix it while you daily drive something else after it's required a load of work. Please don't think I'm just saying this because I drive a BMW, I love a nice s-body, but they're not a logical car for anyone to buy at this point! I share a workshop with a guy with a nice ps13, he daily drives an e46 I'll also just quietly mention the 350z again. N/A, so less to go wrong, a decent amount of drift specific parts out there and they're at the point where you can still buy one off someone who thinks a reverse entry is just "That thing they tried after putting their keys in a bowl at that party last year."
  2. Oh yeah, my e36 (which definitely isn't going sideways anytime soon with 90bhp!) now has another 12 months MOT and a slightly lower front end.
  3. If you're wanting to learn to drift, don't spend 10k on a car for it! You're most likely going to at least knock it, if not completely destroy it. An e36 or 46 is pretty hard to beat in terms of sideways fun time for the amount of fixing and modifying it'll need. If you really want something Japanese, a 350z would be a good shout. They're not really any more than an s-body these days and would almost certainly make a better daily driver and be more reliable. S-bodys were great, reliable cars 15 years ago, buy finding one now that's not been abused to the point of needing constant upkeep is basically impossible, and a shame to then use it to learn to drift in, most likely making it one of the troublesome ones by the time you've had your fun. A ready done turbo mx-5 would be a good bet, you could get a really nice one for that money and if you did bin it, it can be reshelled for pennies.
  4. Cool. Well you've got my number and the offer's there, so just get in touch if you decide you'd like to and we'll sort something out.
  5. No toes would be stepped on! I'm out there a lot anyway, and I can always just set you going on it then crack on with my car while you get on with the majority of material removal. Ben's done the same a couple of times! If there's any way the flange could be made as a separate plate it would speed things up quite a bit, as you could start with a much smaller billet and save a lot of time removing material.
  6. That'd be possible on my little lathe. It might take a little while on such a small machine, but being aluminium would speed things up quite a bit. I don't have any material near that size, but if you picked up a billet you'd be more than welcome to stop by and have a play on the lathe if you wanted. (My workshops about 10 minutes from Junction 25 of the m5.)
  7. Looking bloody good Dan, I bet it's going to be a right laugh to drive! My e36 failed it's MOT on a front damper leak, so I've got some coilovers in the post for it. Only cheap ones, but I know a few people who have had them on e36's with no complaints and I don't plan on setting them particularly low at all (probably around 40mm lower up front and 10 at the back). I still made sure to buy them from a UK retailer with a 2 year warranty though. It'll be nice to feel a bit happier about how it's looking.
  8. I'd agree with this. The gearing is very relevant. As hopping_topsy says, if the pedals movement rearwards is greater than the distance the cranks rotation attempts to move the bikes tyre, then there will be an initial movement forwards. That is up to the point where the rotation causes the pedals movement to become too vertical, so not very far. My instinct would say that the gearing needed to do this would be very, very low though. If the tyre doesn't slip, the bike's held upright and enough force is applied, then sooner or later the bike's going to try and wheelie (if the force is applied from a distance behind) because of the moment arm between the tyres contact patch and the height of the cranks.
  9. What car is it?
  10. How long had it been sat before fitting it Mike? It may just be that the oil control rings were gunked up or stuck and took a while to free up. If that's the case then chances are it'll be fine from now on. I'll be at Combe too, keep an eye out for Prawns Audi, we'll be near by.
  11. While we're still on the crusty sills subject, the hole in mine's been getting smaller slowly:
  12. Yep, water building up in sills doesn't end well. This sill looked fine on the outside, the edge of the floor had some holes, this is what the inside looked like: And that's a galvanised car!
  13. But do the guys on turbo-mini's pictures move? I enjoy reading build threads, but I never manage to find time to do it. Sitting down to watch an episode of project binky's easier to find the time for, and easier to relax while doing. (Well, it is for me after having sat at a computer for 9 hours a day at work anyway.) It's largely why I don't post on here or retrorides as much anymore actually, when I get home from work I usually do everything I can to avoid using a computer. Also, I'm loving the e36, mechanical diesels are definitely the way forwards for cheap run-arounds. As long as you don't mind running around slowly and noisily that is. I spent another weekend on the Porsche, now I have an inner sill: Before (well, part way in actually): After: And I now have a channel/tunnel thingy where the rear axle mount will be welded back in: There's no before picture, because after I'd cut the rust out there wasn't really anything to show as a before, so here's an after: I should be able to close up the outer sill next time I'm down there. Just need to weld in some sill-stand tubes and buy some more zinc primer. I'm definitely starting to feel like I'm getting back into a rythum with metalwork again. I hadn't done any real amount for a while until starting this, so it was a bit slow going at first, but I felt like I was back to making good progress today. Hopefully the drivers side will go a bit quicker as a result.
  14. Coloured wires? On a renault?? Last time I worked on one the bell-ends had just used white for everything, making it a nightmare to fault find. Or is that just the cabin looms? I also use the a38 every day, but on a bicycle. In fact I live about half a mile away from it. It's a bloody long road! I managed to spend a couple of productive afternoons on the 924 this weekend. Now there's an even bigger hole in it than at the start of the weekend! On the bright side, solid metal has started going back in, and near enough all the rust's not cut out of the passenger side. Also, I made a sheet metal folder, because tools are good.
  15. Nice to see some progress Luke, and good to hear the engine swaps imminent I've finally got around to starting a build thread for the Porsche, so if anyone's interested in following it's progress in a (hopefully) less sporadic manner than my updates on here: http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/196124/1982-posche-924-road-project