26inch

Take the stupid card out your front wheel, drill the inner walls of your rims out lighter front tyre drill your rear mech out, Strip the frame and forks of paint. (Think how much a can of spray weighs)

If your not prepared to take it apart theres not anything todo. you may as well send it back to hope and get them to fix it. It might be full of shit or maybe one of the springs has broken or somethin. Without taking it apart theres nothing you can do really, its pretty hard to damage it taking it apart and you got to learn someday, the only tricky bit is re-seating the seal and that just requires brute force

Nice riding, wouldnt have said the pics where that special at all

please dont do that to a lovely frame, and im not sure how the headtube will stand up to longer forks

Im pretty sure some bmxers give a shit, and some are hugely anal about their bikes. I know people with 'profile wobble' who have had the same hub for over 3 years.

If its only a tiny wobble, (like 1/2mm) dont worry, almost all profile bmx hubs do it so i presume the mtb ones are the same, its just life.

here you go http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...702342626142300

Middleburn have had a 16tooth ti bash guard/ring set up for at least 3 years now. im selling one at moment to be exact. Theyre now steel but still pritty light and strong

I dont know how people can say middleburns arnt used by trials riders. Just because its not anodized a stupid colour and made by deng doesnt mean you cant use it on a trials bike. Just because some kids on here have been riding for a year and can only remember drilled out anodized mass produced crap doesnt mean a few years ago trials wasnt as big as it is now and there wernt big specialist companies churning out cranks that all look the same. Middleburn are just the same as raceface, they arnt trials specific i remember oli beckensale winning countless xc races on his middleburns. Once upon a time trials riders looked for good all round parts and a shed load of them used raceface (ashton hawes tongue akrigg kurt brain) and any other old school rider you can think of. My turbine lp's have lasted ages and would choose them over any trials specific crank. And thats my 2 cents

stock charge iron

That rock spot looks so good. Has anyone got any directions or a map for it? Cheers

Dont get it from winstanleys, they are the worst shop and ususally take ages to post, use http://sourcebmx.com/ they are good for prices nd delivery

Arrg, thats horrible, sorry but thats the first leeson ive disliked and i think its a blemish on leesons good name

Ha For all you non believers if you spend enough time on the phone you can get somewhere. I ended up getting a new frame with headset for £50

Its a dmr. Ive had them crack before and theyve been fine about it, Really im just trying to prove that a frame would not bend from a crash /bail

Thanks for your help, its sort of helpful. Basically its for a warrenty claim, i'm trying to prove that the frame bent through manufacurers poor design/riding while they are saying bends happen from crashes/bails

Hi, this may sound like an odd question but basically im trying to find reasons why the rear tiangle of a frame would be unlikely bend form breing droped/bailed. Im looking for reasonably tech answers (not just. 'should be strong enough not to be dropped') Thanks

New hopes aimed at the lightweight market, front hub should be a hit. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17383 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17386

make sure its a dual ply, i use halfords tubes with a maxxis dual ply and its fine at a bit less than 20psi, no punctures since i had it (4months)

try and find an exploded view on the profile site or something. It certainly sounds like some of the spacers are in the wrong place, thus when you tighten your hub the bearings are being crushed, i would ride it while its like this or your just going to kill the bearings real quick. Try looking at another profile, or try loads of different spacer compinations until one works. Try and think logicaly and work out if the bearing would be crushed when you tighten the bolts

looks better than the echo. I do like the look of those seperate pad adjusters but apart from that no better than a maggy

Ive run turbine lp's for ove a year and theyre mint, i prefer them to middleburns anyday. I run a 22t filthy bash, leeson also make a variety of bashes. They come with a lifetime garentee too

mainly practise. Try to drop the front wheel 1st then explode up and forwards tucking the bars into you. then just push the back wheel down. The best thing to do is watch vids of tunnicliff nd cls etc

the hole is about 9mm with 10mm m10 threads cut in to it. Hence when you internaly tap somethin you drill a hole smaller than the size of the boly. Think about it in a 10mm hole, a 10mm diameter bolt would just slide in and out as the outside of the threads is 10mm wide. The Qr hopes arn't the trials version, hope used funbolts for a reason on the trials, theyre loads stiffer. The 6mm allen heads can be rounded pretty easily as they are quite shallow. Its not hard to get bolts with a 8mm allen head though

you cant put a gr on the hope oanyway. But funbolts are loads better anyway, dont see how they have to keep adjusting them