Muel

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=16134 I've got one that looks identical to that, but it has black jockey wheels and the little tabs that cover them are missing. Maybe worth a try, because mine is absolutely epic, you can also take the bolt out that screws to the mech hanger and put the hub bolt straight through it. I get some mad tension on mine, for that price it's got to be worth a look? There's mine, I didn't actually modify it or anything, it was like that when I bought the bike, but if it is the same tensioner that's just been rebranded, you'll love it.

Anyone going from Manchester/Stockport area? I'm about 8 miles south of Stockport and would like to attend.

Nice vid Rich, it was wierd watching you without a fairly heavy track, it worked though. Looks like you've taken to the new frame pretty well!

You want to write to them and for them to reply, but without knowing your address? Write to them and ask them to Email you?

You used to be able to have post office boxes in the olden days, not sure if you still can though.

Isis or Square Taper?

If you can possibly do without, I would, boosters tend to make the brake bite less in my experience. If it's too flexy, get an Echo 2 bolt booster, they're brilliant things.

Nice vid mate, some tricky lines at Matlock, they don't look as big in video.

That looks sweet Nathan, will there be a new vid on it soon?

Nope, because FFW set-ups are heavier overall than a freehub normally. I love it! Is it stiff enough with no booster on the back?

Have you got a screw on front sprocket? It might be worth going to an 18t front sprocket, or a 16, then you can run 18:15 or 16:14. What cranks have you got?

I'd try 22:19 or 22:20 first if I were you, it's much easier to change a rear sprocket than your chainring/front sprocket. (If you've got a rear freehub).

No, the C2 uses much smaller pistons that a Mono Trial, just look at the difference in the caliper sizes!

Ahhh, I was going to do something similar with mine, but I got a new chain instead. I've wondered about doing one for the Kot, but I need a twin wheel one, with the 16:13 gearing the chain length is about 2-3mm too short to take another link out, so I've got to wait for it to stretch first.

That looks sweet Adam, tensioner looks familiar. Does it have a roller or a just a fixed pad type thing? Any idea how much drilling the rear rim saved? Looks cool, I might have to give it a go.

Tell him to f**k off Ben, sounds like an utter retard if he had to go to the shop anyway. Don't send him the BB back either, it's his own stupid fault, just sell it on here to make back the money you've spent trying to get it sorted!

I do weight training, but not to improve my riding, if you want to get better at trials, you have to ride as often as you can. Theres so much more to trials than stregnth, it's all about balance, coordination and fitness. Try setting yourself long sections that knacker you out by the end, then ride them over and over again.

I can't log into MSN at the moment, I've just got my computer back together and it won't install. If there are holes for some bolts to stick out of, it can probably be done, although you'd probably be better off with some Try-All cams, they have a wider range of adjustment than Montys.

Get some real pics Adam? I've got no idea what you're on about, but if you want I'll see if I can make you up some replacements as long as you pay for postage.

If you want a raw shiny finish, then Nitromorse it and keep it polished up, if you want to re-paint it, see if you can get it shot blasted.

If I'd known you guys were going to be around I would have come. Looked like fun! Nice video.

I've rimmed it as hard as I ever do and I haven't pinched it, so it'll do for me. That's with a Maxxis Welterweight tube aswell.

b*****d, I only just got my Rubber Queen, which is amazingly bouncy and grippy, and doesn't pinch all that easily. I also reckon that the Rubber Queen is bigger than a Minion, because when I was running my minion it had massive knobbles compared the the rubber queen, but had more clearance in my frame.

You can do if you want, but there's no real need to, my Dad's XC bike has the original Minis, bought brand new in 2002 and they still have their original bleeds.

The pistons always stick out a bit, they automatically adjust for pad wear. That pads hardly move at all, each pad only moves about half a millimeter anyway. (On a Mono Trial, on a Mono Mini the leverage ratio is smaller, so the pistons should move further in theory anyway). If there is a little bubble of air trapped in the system, I've found that it doesn't matter, it moves up through the brake as you use it, just check that the diaphragm hasn't got any air under it or it can move into the hose if the bike ends up upside down. To get the sticking piston out, hold the one that's moving into the caliper with some pliers and gently pull the lever, you'll probably find it will suddenly let go and become free, apparently this is because the seal ends up drying out and sticking to the piston, in my experience it always happens on the inside piston, closest to the hub.