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Everything posted by SamKidney
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As soon as you front wheel hits the object, shove all your weight over the bars. This will bring the rear wheel higher, as well as the pivoting motion bringing the front wheel onto the flat top of the pallet. Prime position for either rolling on or some silky smooth wheelswapage......
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The snail cams on the TR hub are 3mm thick. Take them off and you have a 110mm spaced hub. You will either have to run the cams on the outside to stop the bolts washer bottoming out on the axle, or do as Dundy said and run one on the outside and one on the inside. Il be experimenting with it this weekend too when my Ice Arrives.
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I swear by maguras, however Vees set up correctly can be amazing. Could you give us an idea of what setup your running? Frame, clamps, what bleed, pads and rim. If you are going to change to vee, you will need some 4-bolt to Vee adaptors as you mentioned, and a decent set of callipers. Best setup Ive felt and used was; Avid SD7 Lever. Linear cable inside a shimano gear outer cable. Avid SD7 Callipers Some homemade booster Inspired Clear Vee Pads, Light grind.
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Any of you think this could work ok? Try-All NUC stem and Tartybikes risers? Thats my current setup.
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After cracking my Zoo! Python tonight, I should be getting hold of an Ice 2 by the weekend. I have the money left for a new stem. Which stems have you found to work the best with an Ice 2 frame? Ive been looking at the Echo TR, either in 165x25 or 170 x 30. No idea what to get! Cheers, Sam
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Speaking of how "bombproof" the old frames were, My 06 Python has a mammoth crack half way around the downtube and growing as of tonight
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Erm, why?
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Seems to be the trend set by the companies now. One company sells well with their lighter frames, others lose out because no-one buys theirs. So in an effort to sell frames again, they make their frames lighter. Seems like its turned into a competition as to who builds the best/ lighest frames now. Shame really. Although the new Zoo! 20" is out anytime now.......
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I tend to clean my bike when its due for its service. I like to strip the bike down and rebuild it with everything having a good clean. Everything comes off bar the headset. Brakes are stripped down and re-bled, Free-wheel bearings are given a good clean and lubed with light oil, the caps on my hub bearings are removed, degreased and then re-greased, Fresh grind, Sand the pads a little, clean my disc and pads and then clean everything so it looks cosmetically fresh Dont tend to remove my cranks as often. Freewheel usually gets done every 3 months.
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Pads: Heatsink CNC Yellows Time used: 3-4 Weeks Rim used: Trialtech Race Undrilled (bombproof rim!) Grind: Yes mediumishhhhh Ceraminc: Nah Brake used: Magura Hs33 2005, 4 Finger Lever, Water-Bled, Atomz Elitis TR clamps , No booster. 06 Zoo! Python What is your opinion of a working brake: The brake has to be aggresive. It has to bite instantly, no modulation, on or off lever feel, with loads of hold. How do they compare to previous pads you have used: Once again performing brilliantly. However they seem a little less likely to hold than the Beleays............ Review: Brilliant, but not outstanding. Bought these pads yet again after my beleays wore at funny angles. Bed in took a while, and made no noise at all, but held very well. Took the pads out, switched which side they were on and BOOM, mega brake. Plenty of bite with a fantastic honk. However after using my beleays (Which could be tempramental) they dont seem to hold as well. Now I have changed rim, as my old Trialtech Sports rim folded over. This could have something to do with it. Im soon changing my Race rim to an Echo TR, and will be running them on a smooth rim for a period of time. When I grind it, I will evaluate the Beleays and the Heatsinks, both having new refills and on their recommended grinds. Very close in which I prefer. But think the beleays may just have the edge.........
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Hi guys. Decided the higher front end on my Python wasnt working out for me. (Try-All NUC stem and Tartybike risers) So Im going back to a low front end. Trouble is, I dont know what stem to run with my Zoo! Low rise bars. The Try-All stem just doesnt feel right with these bars, maybe too short. Feels like if the bars were further away Id be in a much better stance. Its an 06 Python, if that helps. Cheers! Sam
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Rock and rolls desciption....... They are identical chains. I have them here with me now. Both a KMC branded one, and the one I got from Onza. The onza chain actually has KMC stamped into the links.
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Take said bolt out and chech the bolt threads. If theyre fine, its the frames mounts. Drill out whats left of the threads, tap it a size up from the bolt and whack a helicoil in there. Will return it to its original thread size and be Stronger I had to do this in my Pythons mounts. All 4 had stripped when I bought it (The owner conveniently forgot to mention this) so I helicoiled them. No issues at all!
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Best bet is to try and get a metal TPA wheel. Ive had my 74kingz TPA wheel for three years, and someone had it for 2 before that. Still going strong! With the same TPA pin too
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After seeing that, I know what frame I'm going to be getting later this year
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"Dude! What happened to your legs! Looks like youve been mawled by an angry dog or something!" "No, I just own a Trials Bike"
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My knowledge of SL forks is that they're snap happy. If thats still the case, steer clear and buy some Urbans. Lovely fork
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Does Anyone Else Get Asked Stupid Questions By Poepl While Riding ?
SamKidney replied to jacksnell95's topic in Trials Chat
Favourite one Ive had is "Haha, look at him, cant afford a bloody seat the poor b*****d!" *As the guy rides past on a 20" Apollo kids bike with bmx bars and no seat himself* (Actually seen this guy again a few days ago while I was in the car. Lives in a council estate on the Dole) Think some people would be quite shocked to find out how much our bikes cost. -
Have to take into account the thickness of the mortar in-between the bricks too.............. All adds up! :L
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Trialtech SL is pretty much a single wall version of the Sport and Race rim. Only pads I've found to work well on my Sport and now Race rim were Beleays and now Heatsink Yellows.
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Two people running them who ride with me and they've been fine. Feel great, and have not leaked at all. No issues. One of them has tried a water bleed with no issues either
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Find an 06 Cls Python Mines 1060 wb and running a medium length stem with 25 degree rise and a set of riser bars. Perfect q Find an 06 Cls Python Mines 1060 wb and running a medium length stem with 25 degree rise and a set of riser bars. Perfect q
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VERY poor bleed if you can pull it to the bar
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Im currently running Belaeys why Im waiting for my Heatsink Yellows to arrive. I found it hard to get them to work right, but in the end I just changed the disc on the grinder and WOW! They are working extremely well. I love love love them. And mine are worn at weird angles. Ima going to be ordering some refills. The heatsinks might go on the front.......
