Azarathal

I want to make passionate love to that MK1, the only thing stopping me from getting one when funds allow is lack of abs/powersteering and rwd. For a nice little thrash around its fine but I couldn't use it as an every day runner without powersteering/abs.

With disc wheels you get different sized flanges and different flange positions so you can't do the conventional "tighten every spoke equally" method, at least thats what I have found. loosen the nondisc side off a half turn and turn the disc side half, if that doesn't sort it out just repeat until its dished properly

I used a really thin metal cutting disc and it shattered

Just cleared my safari cache and it works

Can't use the quick navigation button on mobile so I cant check my inbox and the "full site" button doesn't work on mobile either

Mk1/2 golfs are the nicest cars ever, if only they came in 1.4 rwd with abs and power steering so I could use it as a daily car

The Ashton's are nice, hated my friends urban with a passion but I don't really like street bikes to be honest

Don't cytech say 2mm either way is acceptable? Or is that machine built wheels?

My post was deleted due to forum downtime. If anyone from or near to reading needs a lift I need someone to share fuel with, it'll be £25-30 and both bikes will be kept inside the car along with all our equipment. Pm me on here

You can push the pistons right out on some brakes when pumping without pads / rotor in.

I'm 10miles from reading... Shame I don't need some slx cranks though.

I have mine rediculously tight because I hate spoke flex, only ever rounded nipples when I'd first started to build wheels and the only spokes I've snapped was a poorly(not built by me) built 2x disc radial nondisc front wheel.

Brand new hope pro pads + 200mm rotor with no adaptors on a 24" and its still not great, probably hasn't bedded in yet though. Perfectly shimmed too.

Spoke to hope and apparently they bite / hold better, ordered one at work but they sent the mono trial and I couldn't be bothered to send it back. Let me know what it's like if you get one

Pro2 wouldnt fit his bike as it has a different axle spacing, the chris kings are worth more than his bike. When you say the hub is shot to you mean it doesnt engage or skips? If so then its the freewheel and not the hub.

Punny guy. Isn't his DH up for sale atm?

I really liked that, the guy on the silver 26" was a beast!

I knew it some random numbers and 6061 seemed fitting, you're now made from Allu not skin and bone.

Heatsink yellows are amazing, lots of bite and hold but unless the grind is kept fresh they go downhill quite quikcly. I'm running plastic backed cousts and they're probably the best pads I've used, doesnt matter if my grind is dead, dirty, fresh etc they still perform amazingly and are also probably the loudest pads I've used too.

Get some pics up lad.

Purple / greyish black? Paint, really thick paint. Do what Dan6061 did and take the tank to a local powder coaters and get it dipped in the acid bath overnight. You'll need to polish it afterwards though.

I've always been told it'd be f**ked for life. Anyway, I can't cancel my gym membership but I can place it on hold for 6months at a time and can extend it indefinitely. Back to the puncture. Cut the tube in half, used 4 patches on each cut end and then folded it over and wrapped it in black electrical tape and it seems to have held perfectly, going to make 3-4 more of these at work today and then inflate them and leak test them so I have spares. Might do it with presta valve tubes so I don't rip the valve off again Thanks for the help everyone!

They are the same material but I think how they're cut into backings changes the way they work. Coust are stuck flat with I think 10mm of material in plastic backings, you can see them compress when you brake and obviously there's a lot of flex. Coustainks are sunk into metal backings with less material, less "squish", less flex etc. I think Coust material needs to be squished into the rim rather than just pushed like most other pads, obviously all pads with squash a bit but with the 10mm of material on cousts and the fact they're quite soft anyway probably squashes down more. Obviously disregard my entire post if you have anything to prove otherwise

Anodising takes off the surface layer of metal and then oxidises the dye onto the metal I think, or something along those lines. It'd probably make the bb shell very slightly bigger which might cause problems. Could always phone tarty and ask their views?