Azarathal

In which case JD would you be able to recommend a dremmel + attachments (cutting disc + filing attachment) for about £30? Assuming those are the only attachments I'll need.

The drill approach might be better. I am a power tool kinda guy but with something as delicate as taking out a skinny bit of metal with a angle grinder doesn't sound appealing to me. Any links on the small diamond disc for a drill? Currently at work and using my phone so I can't search it until later

So why would a dremel be so slow? I assumed they were meant for cutting things like this and it's only thin metal. I'll probably hacksaw it

Wouldn't it be longer still with a hacksaw?

Sorry for the graveyard bump but would it be easier to do with a dremel? I barely trust myself to grind my rims let alone grind the inner walls. If so, would anyone like to recommend a dremel for up to £30 inc shipping?

BB7, they're rediculous.

Two years or so? I met him about a year ago and the ammount he's improved upon since then is rediculous.

If its horizontal dropouts then you'll be needing bolts, a skewer simply wont have enough grab to keep the wheel in place.

I've got either phatvee or belaey vee pads (sold as belaey but looks more like phats) on a completely dead grind, no booster and it's phenomenal, I just assumed vees were amazing no matter what pads or rim I've rode trials on a few bikes at work with vees, black pads and non-linear cables and it's been fine

I'm running a king on my 24 trial 135mm spacing. Just wish they'd have added a disc tab this year.

I haven't had a puncture since about February? And that was a split valve. Running about 18-20psi rear and 25psi front with fat Albert / small block

I thought Dot5.1 is thinner than Dot4 which, if following a pattern would make Dot3 thicker?

My 24 is "Ffw only" and yet I got a king on just fine with 0 issues

Stick it on the rear brake and use the front to slow down, only using the rear for on/off trials moves you won't boil it.

Being wider might have something to do with it but mines a good inch at least away. Try a spoke tensioner? Position it so it doesn't rub and you can set the brakes up then use a spoke to tension. I've done it because I cba getting the tensioners even or adjusting it as the chain wears

With my wheel slammed in the dropouts (spoke tensioner) I have enough clearance for my fat albert and a vee, is your tyre seated properly?

Mine? Only difference is I'm now rear vee. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/170456-echo-trial-24-new-pictures/

I've had my Fat Albert since about a month before Radfest without the tyre really slipping and I haven't had a single puncture at any pressure. With my Kinetic I was getting a puncture every 3-4 rides with high pressures.

Remove the bolts holding the jockey wheels on, put a spacer either side of the jockey wheels inside the cage and put the bolts back in. It'll just make it wider to accept the wider chain.

Swampthings are better but are also over twice the weight

Same way a 26" is easier to tap / gap / roll up things than a mod I assume a 29" would make it easier still depending on weight and geo although I can't really see it taking off

Just a note on quick release, they aren't as trustworthy as bolts and they're weaker, not that great for trials.

I've heard it's caused by being too demo Nick.

No wonder they feel flexy if you're 112kg, for the majority of users I suspect they're waaaaaaay more than stiff enough.

Would I be right in thinking shimano lever echo caliper?