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Can someone explain to me what the deal is with the crazy bike parts that look like echo ? When I first saw them I assumed echo had given them right to use the design as some sort of import tax dodge, but some people seem to be implying that echo wasn't involved and that crazy bike is stealing their designs/ counterfeiting. and whats with the t-shirt ?

Basically adding to what Kevin said. If its both shoulders hurt without having some sort of trauma you might have upper crossed syndrome and have some sort of shoulder impingement. It starts with tendonitis and bursitis of the shoulder, Have a read around on those topics and see if they fit what you feel. If you think yes then the stuff below may help... The position of trials makes the upper trapezius and pectorals tight while the lower traps and subscapularis get over strained and weakened. The latissimus dorsi may also be weak. The answer will be to stretch and do trigger point massage. But first you will have to rest and restrict motion, take ibuprofen it should help reduce inflammation and scarring, ice packs work well too. Look up traps stretches and pectoral stretches, choose a few and work different angles, ease into them and relax. If a stretch technique is painful or doesn't provide relief try a different one. Then as kevin said you have to tighten and strengthen the back muscles, rows - wide and narrow grip, pull ups - wide and narrow grip, reverse flys and cuban presses are the sort of exercises you want to look at. But also, importantly see your GP and try to get referred to a physio, it may take some time for referral so go soon.

I'm right foot forward so its equal each way for me, but I guess if you are left foot forward it would be worse?????

You can run the popular ratio's on both, I run 18-14 with a chris king, but I like it a bit light, 18-13 is pretty close to factory fourplay. I find the main difference is that my rear hub is much more sealed to dirt, sand and water than when I was FFW. FFW is probably lighter. Your number of engagement points on a RFW will depend on your ratio but will most likely be much less than on an echo SL. The splined sprocket on a RFW makes it easier to experiment with ratios. RFW will allow you to run more crank options, like bmx style or hollowtech. Trousers getting caught isn't to do with FFW, its to do with the size of the front ring. Mine get caught in my 18t sprocket. But overall, I would be happy to ride either.

theres a norco moment frame on ebay at the moment.

This is awesome, did you have them already on another bike ? Did you learn tailwhips on a ramp ?

I got really annoyed running a tensioner and ended up going tensionerless, which has its problems but at least theres less parts to deal with. I think if you can make a decent spoke tensioner, after the initial setup headache, that would give the least trouble. What trouble are you having with the front ? My hope pro 2 hub used bolts, not QR and it was all good.

When i used one I didn't need to replace the bolts, I just added some washers and used the spacers that came with it. It only needs a tiny bit of space, the screw bolt has extra on the threads, and the clip bolt has a washer on that you can swap for a much thinner one.

is it a screw on sprocket or a chain ring ? how many teeth ?

oh yeah did it with the lever squeezed, managed to get the grub screw through, must have been gunked up. Cheers mate

I've turned the screw all the way in, but it doesn't move the lever, am I meant to see it poking out the topside of the lever ? I've unscrewed the grub and taken it out and it makes no difference... Or is the reach adjust, just nothing ?

I second that, the new inspired have them too. I run a rear freehub, but FFW is great and I don't notice any difference apart from rear hubs are better in sandy places. Also: as far as 18t freewheel go, people seem to recommend the Echo SL 108 and the Tensile 60 ?.

FFW is a front freewheel, so If you change your cranks you could fit a 18t freewheel to the front. This is most common on trials bikes. Your alternative is to find a 15t rear freewheel, ENO and VIZ both do trials specific 16t freewheels, but Im not sure if they need to be threaded a certain way ? anyone ? Otherwise you could change your rear hub to a freehub, like a Hope Pro 2 Trials (Single Speed) or a Chris King are good for trials, but not necessary, but it will depend on your dropouts, if they are 135mm apart you can do this. Personally, I would look for a second hand rear wheel with a working freehub on it, the other solutions will probably be more expensive, and the freewheel you have on will probably be hard to get off unless you have a decent bench mounted vice.

they will have to wait for the swelling to go down to assess it, the best thing to do is not to think about riding but take it day by day focusing on getting your foot strong again. For now I would restrict motion as much as possible on it, and use lots of arnica to reduce swelling and ice packs too. Also look for a good physio or speak to someone who is a sports physio, the right information can save you a lot of time. Other than that just wait till they can assess it properly, if somethings badly damaged it may need an operation to be put back in place. Once its rested properly and everything is okay, you will just have to start doing a lot of exercises with a physio and possibly have circulation and scar tissue treatments (ultrasound and stuff). Also I'm sure there's a guy on here who is a physio...?

If you really want to go tensionerless its possible, I think this is sean watsons old bike running 18-14 tensionersless http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/4527857/ Also I use one of these may be helpful: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/chains/tryall_halflink/c7p11118.html

Anyone used or using these rims ? They seem pretty cheap?

Looks really good, I guess people that ride for fun (like me) won't like it, just because of cost. But any professional rider should be interested, consistency is so important in being successful at any sport. Plus £100+ isn't really that much if you have spent in excess of £2k on a new bike build.

great vibe to this video, nice locations and filming goes well with the riding. awesome job dude

Thanks for response guys, anyone with others to check out post them up: You can get some Fuse stuff from customriders.com, but I haven't seen the combo series on UK sites, maybe check ebay ? Fuse stuff is amazing quality. Has anyone tried the Protec Double Down ? Its looks mega slim and has a hard shell.

Ive been using my Freeride knee pads for ages but they are pretty bulky (raceface dig), Im after something slimmer, Ive seen BMXers wearing really slim ones, but I'm definitely after ones with a hard plastic insert, not too bothered about padding. Has anyone got any slim pads to recommend ??, Ive been looking at the TSG and Fuse stuff.. any other good brands??

also check out the for sale section there are some near new bikes in there with a lot of discount: might be worth clarifying what wheel size you want and if you want something compy or streety.

Im not sure that people think the highrise bars are cool, but a lot of streety people prefer the higher bar setup. The trialtechs are slightly higher and have 1deg more upsweep and backsweep. Ive heard that the bars on the skye are the same geo as the trialtech highrise. If you want higher its worth trying. I have a similar stem and amount of stackers on my fourplay as you, and i run trialtech highrises, I love it but some say its too high. bb7s are good for front brake, but people say rear cable disc has too much resistance.? Also i think the stock inspired come with elixers or some kind of avid brake. So they can obviously be put to some use, how much I don't know. My experience of avid parts has only been bad, so I won't comment as it will be biased.

If you find it hard to do it without pedals; try compressing down and then moving your body weight backwards horizontally and then pull up once the front wheel is off the floor, rather than just moving up and back. Seems to work for me on bikes with a lower bb.

I like the 0.8mm ultra thin discs, they don't remove much metal and grinding takes much less time. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power%20Tool%20Accessories/Cutting%20Discs/Ultra%20Thin%20Disc/d80/sd1750/p39737 Although I think I would like the diamond cutting disc too, so may try that soon.

if you start with a pedal wheelie, its a bit easier it'll help you get the braking and balance before you apply power.Its just like a pedal kick except you don't jump just wheel along, I will try and find a video. this video gives the whole motion, but there is one that shows a pedal wheelie, but I can't remember which one it was. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cuo7BslZXz8