ooo

I'm using a BB7 with 185mm rotor on the front. I'm looking at new pads, are there any particularly good ones for trials, or should I just whack any one in ?

I don't think age is much of an issue, its more about having some fitness and having the time in your life to dedicate to trials. Other than that if you find it straining go to yoga or take up stretching, it will help your body adjust and you will learn faster/ not get injured. If you are tall and want comfort (I do) you will want to have a higher bar and stem. So watch out, it could be an unexpected cost to upgrade. Also comfort-wise the bar height is relative to the bottom bracket, as the newer frame tends to have higher bb's, they then need extra height on the bars. As you are heavy too its worth getting some decent brake pads for the rear and putting a good grind on the rim if you are running maguras. Its probably worth asking on here about any bikes you have seen especially ebay as its a real mixed bag on there.

Is is working yet ? how far out is your tpa ? also if you take parts out you are mean't to the system bleed twice. Is the lever spring okay ?

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL70170F3DAC2E5DC0

second that, fix the tensile or pay extra for an SL.

if you can get it to run without a tensioner, it looks nice, vertical dropouts pissed me off for about a week, then I totally forgot and I'm happy to run a tensioner. I don't care how it works, its just fun to ride.

Carl is totally right, but if you feel like you'll perform better on some thing else try it and ride what ever makes you feel confident. At the very least riding the bike you believe is best gets rid of excuses.

thanks mate cool, ill pm you my fb

I'm trying to get bunny hop 180's but I'm getting stuck just past 90, part of me thinks it because I can't spot my landing. Anyone got any tips to get more rotation power ?

sounds cool mate post a link if you can..

lower tyre pressure, try between 20-30 psi depending on your tyres setup and body weight. Something that helped me was, don't try to hop! Try to stay still and use the hops to correct your balance (left/right/front back).

Does anyone ride round here, I should probably start thinking about joining people as I'm shite and I want to progress faster. I'm up for riding with anyone any level on the street. cheers

Its worth asking tarty, but Im pretty sure the BB to handlebar reach and stack is very similar on both the 20 and 24 echo. The wheel size has little to do with the comfort of the cockpit. If you have been doing MTB and BMX I would recommend thinking about an inspired element as well, the lower bb feels and shorter cockpit feels much more like an mtb, so your skills translate easier (at least for me). Also I have heard that BMX'ers like these too.

yeah, you may have to do this as well as changing your rear sprocket, I think its to do with cranks usually having a bash ring.

beast

How does gear ratio affect pedal kicks ?

Its hard to explain, its pretty easy to take apart and put back together. You need four washers, two need to have a fat hole in the middle and two need to have a thin hole in the middle for the two thickness of spindles. Notice that one of the spindles is held on with a spring clip this means that you can add probably no more than 1mm each side. Also note that as this is a spring clip you MAY need a further washer on the outside to go underneath the spring clip, and you WILL need to remove the one that is there at the moment. For the fat spindle I used two of the 1mm spacers supplied with the kit, as long as they are properly lined up they won't add friction to the bearing. But these only add about 0.5mm each side as they are slightly recessed. For the thin spindle I just found some washers lying around, I think from disc brake mount screws. This one is threaded so can easily have space added to it. This won't make much sense unless you open it up and see for your self, its fairly straight forward. just keep an eye on where everything goes. Sorry about the vagueness, but I just bodged it and it runs great, so I don't have any measurements.

yes I did it, it works.

i think it just depends what you ride, I thought they were good on dry street, but i agree the price is pretty high for the risk, are you thinking about running it front or back ? I doubt rear is a good idea. The small block is pretty narrow, so maybe look at other narrow 24 tyres to save weight? Also try running tubeless on the front if you don't mind higher psi.

I tried them on mod on street, once they run in the grip is good on street, good for footjams. The thin side walls gave loads of extra pop when lifting the front. Defo worth a try, I wasnt doing many spinning tricks though. I will prob try em on 24 soon.

after a gap or going up, some people seem to do it, even though its not that far for them. I kinda know what you mean by looping out as well, sometimes my brake slips if i land to flat, but on the corner the bike tends to lock more.

why do people land right on the corner of ledges etc... ?

bagpipes bit was well funny.

i don't ride brakeless but i recently moved from pure trials to a fourplay. I always thought brakeless was impossible, but after riding the fourplay for a bit I can see how it can be done. I think what helps is the extra weight on the inspired bikes, it gives you something to balance against and they carry momentum better making you a smoother rider, which I think is important in brakeless. I'd definately go for a heavier street bike like the zoot or inspireds if you want to ride brakeless, light bikes are too twitchy.

if you arent missing a bit from headset you might not have enough stem stackers on, you may need a couple of mil extra.