RobinJI

Ah, sweet, cheers for correcting me, I'm rather glad I was wrong, both top notch companies. The current justice frames aren't made by orange though are they?

ohh.. I am jealous! Must have set you back alot! (talking about the intense by the way)

Nah, Orange don't make the current Ashton frames, there all taiwanese made, not British, as any orange would be. Would be very cool if they did a joint project sometime soon.

What freewheel are you running? The bash should be alright with the right length BB, but unless you have a monty or try-all freewheel that will foul the BB axel on an SKF.

yep, easy as, well, if you happen to have the facility's to immerse it in liquid oxygen... but even then you could still be at only -183*C Edit: Can't spell.

Yeah, I wouldnt ride with those forks, there bent to fook, and considering ther alloy, they will probably snap sudenly rather than just bending more. Other than that, bloody good buy.

Can I ask why you are looking at spending £400 on a trials frame when you don't even vaguely know what style or geometry frame you are after? Have goes on other peoples bikes and see what geometry etc you like the most. then think about shelling out the big money. You'll regret spending £400 on an MBK then riding an Ashton and realising its much more you're kind of thing, and visa versa.

Monty 221ti hub. Only one I've seen though. Should fit a 221pr. Edit: Oh yeah, any mod hub should in theory, its just the Kings with ISO body's on them that screw things up as far as I know, as the BMX hubs axle spacing is different, so puts the disc spacing out. (correct me if I'm wrong)

Ah, cool, just saying. Well, welcome back! Stay this time!

Think I'm on my 3rd or 4th set of Easton's between bikes, there sweet bars, never had a problem with any. But I find that for the sweep to feel rite you have to lean them forward like 20deg for jump/DH, or like 45deg for trials. I'm guna be running high-rise ones on my 24" but there lent really far forwards so its like having a 20mm longer stem. The mid-rise might be alright, but there still gunna go forwards a good 10mm, I'd just stick with low rise, there practically flat, but have a much nicer feel/sweep than any flat bars I've tried.

Try putting this in For-sale/Wanted, you'll probably get more replies Also I'm guessing you're after an 18t screw on for the front and a bash to match? Not like a 5arm bash and an 18t rear sprocket?

Actually the Down tube isn't anything like a control, Look closely and you can see that its actually a kinda interesting looking almost triangular cross section, Looks good, probably be a lot harder to dent than a normal /control style tube. Edit: crappy paint draqing of cross section:

Don't think there's any reason why you wouldn't, I nearly bought some monkey light carbons second hand for my koxx when I was riding it. Just get the low rise ones, because you have to lean them forwards loads, so the high-rise ones just end up going forwards not up.

The knifen will be 1.3kg, and I think echos will be about 850-950g so you're looking at another 350-450g on the front of your bike.

Seems to be the case with Deng, hope no-one else follows! Crank length is a personal thing, they cant just standardise it, that's like only making frames in 1060 wheelbase and nothing else, what about the short/lanky people?

Exactly, one fair sized hit on the down tube and you've written off your frame. Carbon seat-stays and tup-tube would be cool, but not a full carbon frame, trials frames just get bashed about too much. Also its to do with how it fails, I mean look at jump bikers, alot of them prefer steel frames because when they go they go gradualy and there are easy signs before compleat failure, so theres less chance of langing a jump and your bike snapping in two and hurting you. Now think about carbon, even less warning signs than aluminium, and even more dangrous sharp fragments when it does fail. Steel all the way for me, for jump and trials. Carbon for XC and Aluminum for 4X racing, DH or any more extream full susser. Ti frames may take off more, but I cant see the price coming down much, as its the material that costs more than it is the welding ect.

PIMP Yeah, looks much better now, spray job looks pretty good too, make sure you get some laqure on there if you havent already.

The first one thats part of the drop-out is indeed for oldschool mudguards, the other hole in the inside of the forks actual leg is to let the pressure out while weding the forks, so that when the air inside heats up due to the welding porcess it doesn't blow out the weld as its cooling, I think, something like that anyway, its to do with the welding.

You might want to have a look at the rear disc, it apears to be out of line with the rotor and as a result is only breaking 3/4 on the breaking surface. Nice bike though

Did you get that bike second hand recently? I've seen it for sale not too long ago, definatly that bike too, exact same picture. Very nice bike by the way My 24seven V24 that I sold in spring, such a stupidly nice bike to ride. What I bought with the money:

Pros: Longer bearing life, Much cheeper, probably lighter, easily strong enough for lightish people like me. Cons: Weeker axles, Need regular Tightening, round off if you dont tighten them, or if there cheep cranks.

Yeah, would be cool to see some more trials specific 26" tyres on the market, rather than just using DH tyres.

Yeah, roadie mech/cassete is awsome Although I'd say go for sram gears, they just work much better, unfortunatly you cant get a really short rear mech by sram without spending lots. If you're on a budget then get a Sram 12-21 cassete and tiagra or 105 rear mech, they work fine with shimano mtb shifters, but I'd say get a sram attack shifter. The sram shifters are worth going for as you dont have to take you're finger off the the break lever for up shifts like you do with shimanos. Sora mechs are ok if you're not really gunna use the gears, but there not as tough or nice shifting as the tiagra or 105 which are only a few quid more expencive.

Yeah, helicoiling's when they tap it out to a bigger size, then put in a steel insert to bring it back to the same size, which will be an M6 thread in your case. If it is an older hope mini, the silver ones rather than a new Mono, then you could just replace the caliper half.

I'm having standard 135mm spaceing, and I'm gunna be running a DMR revolver SS hub with a screw on freewheel.