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george_seamons

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Everything posted by george_seamons

  1. Its perfect for you because you're an idiot and cannot drive. You don't deserve a ko4
  2. Yeah, but considering the Leon weighs nearly 400kg more than the a3 did, that brings the power:weight ratios a lot closer. I'm not kidding, but the Leon feels twice as fast as the a3, its just superior in every single way (...apart from economy, lol!)
  3. Jardo, my Leon is worlds apart from your old a3. TOTALLY different power delivery. I know its not a "real" 300bhp, but that's what it says on the paper, so that's what I say it is (going by Prawn's theory ). My car was remapped there after they supposedly had the rollers recalibrated, so their figures are more believable now it seems (although I do know 300bhp isn't really achievable without wmi). My Leon may only have 80bhp more than the a3 (basing the ko3 on the a3 being maxed out at 200bhp, and the Leon being 280bhp), but considering the a3 was considerably lighter (sub 1100kg by the time I'd done all the work), it is MUCH slower than the a3. We're talking WORLD'S APART here (why do you think I got rid of the a3 so quick after getting the Leon after all the work I had put into it?!). For what it was, the a3 was pretty quick, but it ran out of puff too soon, the ko4 just pulls and pulls all the way. Your a3 was quick, but it will never compare to if it was ko4'd.
  4. "300bhp/320ftlbs" on AMD's rollers...
  5. Having had a ko3, and now having a ko4, I would do everything in my power to persuade you to go for a ko4 at the very least. The power delivery is SO different, its 1000x better with the ko4 (especially when remapped). Can't wait to get my tubular manifold so it can breathe that little bit better. I reeeeeeaaally want a ride in a decent hybrid/bt setup, just to see what the difference is! Mine is by no means slow, I can't imagine what another 50-100bhp feels like!
  6. No, they are plug and play. You plug the HID into where the halogen bulb would normally go, then the HID is connected via a ballast unit.
  7. I've had few few eBay specials die, but they are so cheap I just get a whole new set. I must have had near on 10 kits in my time (new car means new set, or different colour wanted means new set), and out of them all, there's probably two or three ballasts (out of 20) that have failed. They still work, they just flicker every now and then. Not a bad ratio! Worth bearing in mind that I run a set in my main beam as well as my dipped, which has led to higher failiure rate (they dont like turning on and off frequently). All my kits have been cheap ebay ones. There's no way I'd spend 100 quid on a kit...would probably be more than Martin's car is worth! Little tip though, when you fit them, mount them somewhere where they won't bounce around, and where they won't get wet. Both of which have accounted for my previous losses...
  8. No...I said Nick's known Lou longer than you, which he has. That was all. ...there's only one retard here P.S. Drop the rear of the Audi just a smidge for stance-win.
  9. Lol, I was going to say...pretty sure Prawn knows Lou far more (as in, longer) than you! Hope she's happy with it though, can't beat the feeling of driving a new car home
  10. If you mark exactly where the track rod end came off, and put the new one to exactly the same place, and do the same with the 3 ball joint bolts on the wishbone (the are elongated to allow adjustment), you should just about be ok.
  11. Easy enough to do, but you won't do it for £50, and 2 hours would be ambitious for somebody that hadn't done it before. You've got to take the wishbone out to change the bush, so you might as well change ALL the bushes, seeing as if one lot are worn, the others won't be far behind. A complete set of wishbones is about £30-£40 off eBay (which comes with ALL the bushes, inc ball joints), where as you'll pay £10-£15 for just the bushes, so its probably more cost effective to buy a complete set rather than pissing about getting the bush in and out (need fire and a hacksaw to get it out, and a big vice to get them back in) Track rod end could be a pig if its seized on, I would spray shit loads of plus gas on it and let it soak before trying it. Failing that, heat will help. Expect to pay about £15 a pair (may as well get a pair, seeing as you'll be in that area anyway). With regards to the rear spring, ideally you replace them in pairs, but that might bump the price up. Probably best to check eBay for Leons being broken. The 2 red, 2 silver indicates which spring it is, although because its a rear spring its not so vital. You can use rear springs from any mk4 chassis car. Probably £10-£20 for a second hand pair. Rear springs are easy to change, but you HAVE to drop both sides at once, or it is 10x more difficult. To change the spring (once you've taken the wheel off!), undo the bottom shock bolt on both sides of the car, and you can then lever the rear beam down, and the springs should fall out. Make sure you put the rubber platforms back on the replacement springs though! Then jack the bean back up, and bolt the shocks on. Half hour should be PLENTY. (I put my rear coilovers on in 10 minutes doing it that way, and that included new shocks!). Easily done for under £100, and if you haven't done it before, probably 3-4 hours. You'll need to get the alignment checked after though...
  12. I need to change my Facebook name really. It was only on there because it was my nickname. Basically, a girlfriend of my mates (well, not such good mates now that she slept with me lol...but that's a whooooole different thread!) used to call me Forge when I sneezed, because I sounded literally exactly the same as my recirc valve haha. I guess having Forge in plastered along the side of my a3 could have given some leverage to that name too! The only Forge product I have on my lcr is the same recirc valve, but I want rid of that for an oem one (because they react quicker), but I can't find the one I took of when I first bought it Agreed though, they are robbing bastards, and aren't even THAT good...
  13. Pffffft. Slow I read about the price of that Forge tube, what a rip off! Forge are like the Apple of the car world, haha!
  14. Maybe if it wasn't a "The" thread it might stand more chance I have no say in the running of the forum in that sense (don't want to step on Tom's toes), but have to agree there doesn't seem quite the community feeling that there used to be before. Whether its because of the loss of such topics I don't know, but I for one miss them. (And did read them!)
  15. Ah ok, that's very different then! My reply was more in response to Jardo though.
  16. I've done 3 trackdays in the lcr, and I did 5 in the a3, as well as going to Nurburgring 3 times. All in "dailys". Only issue I ever had was the shitty cheap rear shocks popping on one Germany trip. I've ALWAYS driven to trackdays, played, then driven home.
  17. Weren't you wanking on about AEM kits? How much can you get it for (delivered)? ...and asking for a 2nd hand clutch, you tight arse
  18. Even better then! I take it he's not the guy who bidded £10? If its out of ebay, there is NOTHING he can do. Might be worth taking a screenshot of the auction and savinfg it somewhere, just incase he tries to play silly buggers.
  19. I think the sticking point is that he came to pick it up, so had a chance to view it there and then, and let you know of anything he was unhappy with. The fact he didn't, and has only now written to complain would suggest he is trying it on. Don't offer him a refund, you have done nothing wrong, it was sold as spares or repairs. The fact it works is a bonus. Ignore him. The worst he will do is leave bad feedback, which you can "respond" to anyway to air your side of the story. Sod him!
  20. I dont care about mine either, hell I scrape EVERY time I go into my drive, lol. Its just a bit off putting hearing the road take chunks out of my car haha!
  21. On flatter bits like 'A' roads etc (and on track), its insane, handles brilliantly, and makes the back road crapness acceptable! Its worth bearing in mind that the back roads here in Norfolk/Suffolk are absolutely mullered by tractors, so end up looking like /^^^^^^^^\ in no time, if I stay out of the cambered edge bits, its fine, just the minute I dip a wheel into the cambered bits, my splitter scrapes. I would in no way say my car was "stanced", its on coilovers, probably about 60mm down, just HATE the massive arch gap they have as standard. To be fair, even on the original springs and shocks, it used to catch the splitter fairly often. I think its more to do with the fact that the front bumper on a LCR is quite deep, so sticks out from the front wheels a lot more than most cars. THAT'S the problem. If I took the splitter off, I could hoon it around back roads as fast as I wanted!
  22. Hahaha, same! I have all that power, but can't really put my foot down on back roads because it scrapes so much. ...its hard work being badass!
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