forteh

When I switched from the focus to the s-max, Hastings were the cheapest renewal (handy as I was already with them) so I figured it would just be an admin fee of 20 quid or so + the increased premium to change the car. Turns out they wanted to charge me almost 200 quid to change the vehicle, however they could cancel the policy for 12 quid as long as I took out a new policy for the s-max!

Roger Wilkins, say no more, just west of Wells so probably within 45mins for you

Roger Wilkins cider is phenomenal, proper cider, a quid a pint and so, so nice. If you're ever in somerset around Cheddar, go get some

Fair enough, I was working on the assumption that it would be a case of head off, cams out, springs off, seals and rebuild If it's a bitch of a job then I agree full lump transplant is the way forward.

Why not pop the head off, regrind the valves and replace the stem seals whilst you're at it? Good learning curve and fun to do if you have time available. If you're only really burning oil on over run then a few quids worth of stem seals might be worth doing to give more life, at least as long as it takes to bugger the rings / bores. Of course you then have had gasket costs as well but if you're taking the cambelt off why not go a couple of steps further for the learning experience? Worst comes to the worst, you buy a spare lump to drop in

Been saying this since Clarkson was axed, make it a motoring show again, not an exercise in expensive big boys japes and fun

Time wise, it took about 10 mins to knock that up in solidworks, the number is just a text block outline that the font and size can be changed at will. The varying cuts on the number is just a configuration of the boss extrude. What format do you need for the printer? Is step OK? I can't comment on the design of the thing or how well it will print but probably worth consulting someone who does and adjusting the model to suit before you commit

Something like this.... Three options on the shape of the number section, left to right are: - Cut to the spherical section of the top only Cut to follow both the cylindrical and spherical section Cut to follow the cylindrical section only

An M10 tap is a couple of quid off ebay There is no hole drilling to worry about, just wind the tap into the Ø8.5 hole and it will self centre (assuming you're using a taper). The brass threaded insert would also work although possibly wouldn't last as long as the cut thread (they may eventually come loose due to material creep). In the mean time I made a shiny edit: you could be really clever and have a hexagonal hole through from below the number but leaving a shoulder for it to sit against, that way you only need the M10 nut and no epoxy. Still better to tap the thread out

There's nothing to hold the M10 nut in there

Built in lock nut Personally I would print a plain hole Ø8.5mm (m10 tapping drill size) and cut the thread afterwards, I'm not sure just how strong a printed thread might be at that size and cutting it from solid material should be more reliable.

Agree with what ali says, when lacing a wheel I only lace up one direction on one side at first, then fully rotate the hub to pull the spoke tension up and then lace up the opposite direction on the opposite side. All things being right you should have the wheel with all spokes at even tension and the hub centralised (nominally) on the rim. If that makes any sense

Don't worry about having the number facing the right way once screwed on, simply use a lock nut below it to set it in the correct orientation Were you going to have the thread printed in or were you going to tap it yourself?

The threads will have welded themselves together and can now be considered to be a single piece of metal. If you put enough force into it, you will simply tear the metal apart. You could potentially cut through the sprocket and with care not cause too much damage to the hub threads. That might free it off enough to crack the galled threads but even if it does work you will need to clean the threads with the right size die nut (which I dare say would cost me than a new hub!). If it's a creaking noise like a loose floorboard then check the BB and cranks are greased where they might rub together. Creaking metal components are caused by unlubricated surfaces moving together, that could be BB threads, crank splines or even headset cups and spacers. Generally in my experience, chainline issues will result in a sudden crack noise and a jump in the cranks (like a skipped freewheel), if you're getting creaking then I don't think chainline is your issue

Second the chain in decent sized vice is much better than any chainwhip will ever be. That said I really don't think you will get it apart without tearing the threads off the hub, see here for more info on thread galling; you have the worst situation possible - fine pitch titanium and aluminium threads. Grease will have helped prevent galling on assembly but it dries up and washes out very easily, a decent antisieze compound (like copaslip) is basically a grease with a very heavy load of copper particles which act as both a barrier and lubricant between the friction surfaces of the threads which allows dissassembly. I feel your pain, today I found out that the spring cap on my marzocchi 44 rc3ti forks is siezed solid (having come back from an aborted service), the thread has been re-assembled dry and the aluminium threads have welded themselves together. Fortunately I was able to get around the issue by rebuilding the forks in reverse order. Lovely 37th birthday suprise for me Consider if moving the sprocket is worth potentially destroying the hub. Good luck, you'll need it!

I will almost guarantee that it's not coming off without destroying the hub threads Unless it was slathered with lots of copaslip on assembly then it will likely have galled and cold welded itself to the aluminium. Titanium screw on sprocket is possibly the worst application of a material I can think of! Sorry to be the pessimistic bearer of bad news but I suspect it's stuck for life now.

Ah yes I did

Did I miss this one in here?

Fortunately I have a good deal of that lot already But it looks so neat and organised and tidy and clean and stuff I could just spend a couple of days sorting my tooling properly, spend a grand on drugs booze and loose women*, I shall probably just waste the rest of the money saved *may or may not happen

I've got the top section of that cab, the bottom two drawer runners were f**ked so I pulled them but the rest is still solid. It was one of the old boxes from one of our fitters vans, so had been massively overloaded and bounced around in the back of a transit. I wouldn't have any issues with a full halfords box like it

Why? Why? Why? Why would you do this to me? I want to buy lots of tools now

I think he's got it in him!

I guess it's because dough is a non-newtonian fluid?

It would appear to be this... Effectively stuff behind the blind bearing with a piece of bread till it's flush to the surface and use a snug fitting bar (to the bearing bore) to compress the bread into a hydraulic ram. Gets you out of a stick if you don't have a blind bearing puller I guess

b*****d Why the f**k are they not teaching kids how to use these things anymore?